When I turn the temperature **** all the way to HOT, it bounces back a few notches. I'm not getting any hot air for the winter! Anyone knows what might be the problem and how to fix it?

 

it's a very common problem for all hondas made in the early to mid 90s.

it may be that the metal wire is seized or possibly the heater valve. i think it's the heater valve, i have yet to fix it though.

from the passenger side of your car, look under the hood near where the main fuse box is. way down in their under the fuel filter is the line, make sure that moves freely. mine does, but it pops back when i pull on it which what the **** is doing.

 

did you pull the **** off and make sure it is not broken, this is also a very common failure.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smokin rubber &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you pull the **** off and make sure it is not broken, this is also a very common failure.</TD></TR></TABLE>

if not that just try pulling the heater control unit out of the dash and check the temp cable....it may have just come un hooked

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smokin rubber &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you pull the **** off and make sure it is not broken, this is also a very common failure.</TD></TR></TABLE>

if the **** breaks it falls off, my honda dealer got these little metal things to go over the plastic piece that breaks on the ****. i don't break ***** anymore atleast.


anyways, if the **** is springing back it's still hooked up to the wire. something is causing the wire to spring bring. when you manually pull the wire from under the hood the **** should turn, if it does you know it's connected.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KGAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

if the **** breaks it falls off, my honda dealer got these little metal things to go over the plastic piece that breaks on the ****. i don't break ***** anymore atleast.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cool, I dont even have my heatercore anymore, so if you need a new cable let me know.

 

Look at the connection of the cable and heater valve. It has probably rusted and seized. A little white lithium grease will take care of the problem.





Modified by AngryTroll at 7:45 PM 12/17/2003

 

mine **** problem was the same.

the inside of the **** broke and i turned it and i wasnt getting any hot air.. new **** was free at yard and it fixed it..

also make sure the wire is being pulled. my happen to fall off

 

I kind of fixed the problem with my heater last Saturday. The **** turned fine, and the steel wire was connected, but it was only able to turn the temperature to cool and when I turned it back the other way, the indicator pointed to the red(hot), but only cold air would come out. I drove like that for a whole month in the really cold Oklahoma nights! Anyways, I just adjusted the heater valve in the engine bay to "hot", and just left it. I will adjust the temperature valve accordingly when the next season rolls around...

 

The **** itself on mines breaks. Im on my third ****. Its hard to turn sometimes too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by whoaitslen2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The **** itself on mines breaks. Im on my third ****. Its hard to turn sometimes too. </TD></TR></TABLE>You might want to fix the hard-to-turn business, then you won't keep breaking the *****...

 

My heat slider on my 92 had the same problem. The cable had worked itself loose from a retaining bracket at the bottom of the console.

Get a friend, and have him turn the **** back and forth. Look in the left bottom side of the passenger footwell. If you see the cable, it may be moving back and forth unrestrained. Clip the cable back into the retainer, check for complete movement from cold to hot, adjust as necessary, and then use a screwdriver to tighten up that retainer as much as possible so the cable doesn't just pop out again.

I guarantee you will need a flashlight, and you may have to remove a small plastic cover to see the cable. It sucks to find it, but it's still better than disassembling the console for hours to only find out that you could have fixed the cable in less than 5 minutes.

 

Forget the grease. Use "The Original Rust Buster" from AutoZone. It is the best for freeing rusted parts. Once you have it free then do the grease.
later, slater