Ok, I wired it all in and I'm having a problem with the remote start. I wired h1/17 (ground when armed) to a relay that cuts fuel to the car as an extra imobilizer. When I try to remote start the contact stays grounded, not letting the fuel pump run.

Is there a way to keep the fuel cut or will I have to just take it out of the system?

TIA

 

You have to use a different output then. Why not just hook it up the the starter wire?


Modified by vigor5spd at 3:00 PM 12/1/2003

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vigor5spd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why not just hook it up the the starter wire?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The starter wire only get a momentary pulse to start the car. If I connect it to any other (Ignition, acc) wire it will defeat the perpose of the fuel cutoff. Say if someone hotwires the car, they would have to power the ign up to run the engine. This would send power back to the fuel pump also.

I want to know if there are any other outputs that will or can activate upon remote start.

 

Most alarms only have a momentary pulse usually the OEM factory disarm wire prior to remote start activation.

One option is to disarm the alarm before remote starting. Does the alarm auto lock the door if remote start is activated?

I am gonna look at the alarm features on their website and see what can be done.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vigor5spd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">One option is to disarm the alarm before remote starting.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes this does work, thats how I figured the contact for the fuel pump wasnt getting power.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vigor5spd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Does the alarm auto lock the door if remote start is activated?
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It has this option but I didn't hook it up. I guess I could do it this way, but I would like the alarm to sound and what not if someone starts messing with my car while it is remore running because I probably won't near my car while it is warming up.


You gave me an idea for that lock pulse for the start up... let me make a drawing.

 

Ok I think I've got it!!!

Check it out:



Ok, when the alarm is disarmed, pin H1/17 is open, sending power to the fuel pump when you nomally start the car.

When you arm the car, H1/17 is closed to ground energizing the second relay creating a break in the fuel pump circuit.

Now when you remote start, H3/2 sends a pulsed output to the first relay in the drawing. This will re-direct the H1/17 output to the first relay's coil. This will keep the first relay energized untill the system is disarmed.

I think this should work out pretty good, I just need to add 1 more relay to the system.

 

H3/2 pulsed ground wire last for how long during remote start? 1 sec?

Is the H3/2 programmable from a pulse output to a constant pulse output?

The H3/2 wire needs to be a constant pulse ground during remote start.

Do not bother with the H3/2 wire. Swap the +/- leads around. Ground the right side of the relay (IGN2 wire on diagram). Use the IGN2 wire from remote start on the left side of relay (where you had the H3/2 wire on diagram) to energize it.
How do you post a picture on here?


Modified by vigor5spd at 12:59 PM 12/2/2003


Modified by vigor5spd at 1:00 PM 12/2/2003

 

Check it out:

Here the alarm is in the armed state, H1/17 is grounding the fuel pump cutoff relay.



In this one the alarms is remote starting, pulsed output H3/2 is re directing the output of H1/17 to the other relay.




In this one the Pulsed output of H3/2 is off but the constant output of H1/17 is still going to the coil on the other relay and not to the fuel pump cutoff relay.


And when all of that is done and you disarm the system every thing goes back to its normal state.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vigor5spd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do you post a picture on here?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Quite easy, goto http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/ Sign up for free, upload pics to them and then they give you a link you can use to post that pic.

 

One more thing. Does the IGN2 wire have a constant 12v during the entire remote start up process?

Let me get my diagram drawn and I will post it here.

 

Yes it does.... I think. I could also just wire the other side of that relay strait to a 12VDC source too keep it simple.

 

Well good luck.

 

thanks, I'll hook it up this weekend.

I just got a couple of thoes "pain generators" for $10 a pop and I'll put thoes in the same time.

I can say this....

The Avantguard 5 is bad ***!!! There is just so much you can do with it. Now I just need to figure out how to set up the "Turbo Timer" and I'll be set.

 

I would use an ignition 12V source on the second relay. Using a constant 12V source will keep your relay "ON" while the car is armed. This will cause a constant drain on your battery. You only need this relay "ON" when a thief is attempting to start your car.

Was the wireless immobilizer not an option for you. It was designed to do exactly what you're trying to do.

 

Ive installed two AG4's...

Props for getting this far, I know what its like.

The thing you have to consider is that the relay will be powered when your car is off, drainning the battery to keep the relay open. What you should do is get a normally open relay (the same thing that is inside the AG4 and AG5 units). These relays will remain open when not powered (ie alarm on) and then will close the circuit when the car/ignition/alarm output provides power to it drainning power from a working car.

You might also want to place diodes on the H1/17 and H3/2 wires to prevent getting any sort of feed back into the system.

On a side note, you might want to consider have an extremely hidden switch which would over ride your relay system. If the relay fails, your car will not start and you probably wont consider it being the relay. With the switch you will be able to jump the connect and easily check if it is the relay or not (good place is under your rear seats or in your trunk or under the hood.