Pondering Questions About Building Head For New Setup...
OK so I have everything figured out for the new setup except for building the head. Long story short I am shooting for roughly 400whp and wanting to rev up to around 9200 RPMS using b16a head, but going to be rebuilding it with either Crower, Skunk2, or Ferrea valvetrain parts. Right now I have a AEBS Intake Manifold and that's it. I am going to leave me cam gears alone and just run those, but I have two main questions....
1. In old setup I had OEM GSR Cams and I received a 7hp/1ftlb gain to the wheels using them. Now the rumor that I always heard was that GSR Cams were better for boost rather than using the OEM CTR Cams, but now I am hearing from two sources unmentioned that the OEM CTR Cams actually perform/flow better than the OEM GSR Cams do with high horsepower cars. So, my question is which is it? Which are better for boost? OEM GSR or OEM CTR Cams?
2. Also was doing a little research and didn't know if this would actually work or not, but to help the turbo spool a little better what if when I redo the valves that I go with b16a size Intake Valves and go a bit bigger on the Exhaust Valves and use the CTR size valves? That way more air will flow through the turbo allowing for better spool? Or should I just go oversized on both the Intake and Exhaust sides and just run CTR's specs all the way?
Sorry if these are newbie questions, but honestly have no idea about head stuff...
1. In old setup I had OEM GSR Cams and I received a 7hp/1ftlb gain to the wheels using them. Now the rumor that I always heard was that GSR Cams were better for boost rather than using the OEM CTR Cams, but now I am hearing from two sources unmentioned that the OEM CTR Cams actually perform/flow better than the OEM GSR Cams do with high horsepower cars. So, my question is which is it? Which are better for boost? OEM GSR or OEM CTR Cams?
2. Also was doing a little research and didn't know if this would actually work or not, but to help the turbo spool a little better what if when I redo the valves that I go with b16a size Intake Valves and go a bit bigger on the Exhaust Valves and use the CTR size valves? That way more air will flow through the turbo allowing for better spool? Or should I just go oversized on both the Intake and Exhaust sides and just run CTR's specs all the way?
Sorry if these are newbie questions, but honestly have no idea about head stuff...
about the valves, I have no definate answer... but about the CTR cams, I would almost guarantee that they would work better than the gsr. You can tune out the excess overlap with a set of cam gears and the extra lift that you will get with the CTR cams will help with power imo. I'd give it a shot.
See I was always told that the lift that gsr cams provided were better than the lift that CTR cams provided......
I would go with the Ferrea kit, or sub part of it and use the crower spring and retainer, what I don't like about most kits out there is they all use the stock stamped steel keeper with there hi quality ti retainer and the use of the stock spring seat locater, the only one out now that uses there own keepers and locater's is Ferrea, which is why they are the most expensive.
as far as cams I am no expert on the V-tech cams offered by Honda but I will say we have made 690hp with the typeR cam and b16 head with a 70mm turbo on gasoline, not saying it's the way to go but that is food for thought-that cam will make power.
about valve size you didn't mention if you are going to be porting the head or if you are going to a bigger bore, both in my opinion are very important when deciding valve size.
as far as cams I am no expert on the V-tech cams offered by Honda but I will say we have made 690hp with the typeR cam and b16 head with a 70mm turbo on gasoline, not saying it's the way to go but that is food for thought-that cam will make power.
about valve size you didn't mention if you are going to be porting the head or if you are going to a bigger bore, both in my opinion are very important when deciding valve size.
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I would leave the stock valves in there, to really see any gains from a larger valve the bowl area(area under the seat)needs to be inlarged in relation to the valve size.
besides if you have a stock bore and combustion chamber the larger valve will be shrouded I guess the best way to put that in laymen's terms would be to say the air has a unclear or not a easy pass into the chamber. you could get just the chamber and bowls done with a valve job and not spend all the money on a full port job if this is something you have your heart set on.
besides if you have a stock bore and combustion chamber the larger valve will be shrouded I guess the best way to put that in laymen's terms would be to say the air has a unclear or not a easy pass into the chamber. you could get just the chamber and bowls done with a valve job and not spend all the money on a full port job if this is something you have your heart set on.
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