Shift point?
k guys correct me if im wrong but the b18c5 makes peak HP at 8100rpms, so is good shift point all the way to redline or a few hundred rpms before that? My motor is stock w/ just an intake
well, you SHOULD do a search, but just cause I'm feeling friendly...
The USDM B18C5's rev limiter is 8500 rpm. Redline is technically 8400 rpm, but that doesn't really matter cause the stock tach isn't very accurate. I generally shift just before the rev limiter (pretty deep into the red actually). The higher you shift, the closer you will be to the horsepower and torque peaks in the next gear, so for best accelleration - let er rip up to redline
The USDM B18C5's rev limiter is 8500 rpm. Redline is technically 8400 rpm, but that doesn't really matter cause the stock tach isn't very accurate. I generally shift just before the rev limiter (pretty deep into the red actually). The higher you shift, the closer you will be to the horsepower and torque peaks in the next gear, so for best accelleration - let er rip up to redline
as stated earlier the stock tach is off, it reads high...most likely for saftey reasons. You sort of have to *feel* it out.
The higher you shift, the closer you are to peak power and you are less likely to fall out of vtec.
The higher you shift, the closer you are to peak power and you are less likely to fall out of vtec.
You don't want to shift at the exact point of peak power but rather where after you shift you will have the most power across the power band until your next shift. On the b18c5, this point is basically hitting the rev limiter.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr2401 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">try to also full throttle shift when your up there too
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...and people blame it on the "weak tranny"
don't full throttle shift unless you want to break ****, it's not worth it on a street car.
</TD></TR></TABLE>...and people blame it on the "weak tranny"
don't full throttle shift unless you want to break ****, it's not worth it on a street car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SleepnCiViC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">k guys correct me if im wrong but the b18c5 makes peak HP at 8100rpms, so is good shift point all the way to redline or a few hundred rpms before that? My motor is stock w/ just an intake</TD></TR></TABLE>
Assuming your motor is completely stock, shifting slightly above 8100 and before redline will keep you solidly in the maximum acceleration range of VTEC in the next higher gear.
I am sorry that you got some stupid answers in the thread. I don't know why people go off like that.
Assuming your motor is completely stock, shifting slightly above 8100 and before redline will keep you solidly in the maximum acceleration range of VTEC in the next higher gear.
I am sorry that you got some stupid answers in the thread. I don't know why people go off like that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eluder200K »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
...and people blame it on the "weak tranny"
don't full throttle shift unless you want to break ****, it's not worth it on a street car. </TD></TR></TABLE>
agreed...and my post got deleted cause i said bounce the revlimiter! hmmmm
...and people blame it on the "weak tranny"
don't full throttle shift unless you want to break ****, it's not worth it on a street car. </TD></TR></TABLE>agreed...and my post got deleted cause i said bounce the revlimiter! hmmmm
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> ... shifting slightly above 8100 and before redline will keep you solidly in the maximum acceleration range of VTEC in the next higher gear.</TD></TR></TABLE>
With an inaccurate Tach, how is one to know where 8100 RPM is (much less redline), w/o bouncing the limiter at least once!
Sorry to hear about your motor George ... burnt piston?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">agreed...and my post got deleted cause i said bounce the revlimiter! hmmmm</TD></TR></TABLE>
Chad, did you find the shipping info you needed? Ed
With an inaccurate Tach, how is one to know where 8100 RPM is (much less redline), w/o bouncing the limiter at least once!
Sorry to hear about your motor George ... burnt piston?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">agreed...and my post got deleted cause i said bounce the revlimiter! hmmmm</TD></TR></TABLE>
Chad, did you find the shipping info you needed? Ed
I collect type r literature especially brochures and they all state that max power output is at 8000. I mean thats not too far off 8100 and if the stock tach is reading high then perhaps that approximation is correct.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sqwerz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i shift at 9100 rpm with the JUN ecu</TD></TR></TABLE>
damn i wonder what program they gave you, because if i wanted i can just about goto 9800 w/ JUN3s, valvetrain, ECU. i hardly ever take it past 95 though
damn i wonder what program they gave you, because if i wanted i can just about goto 9800 w/ JUN3s, valvetrain, ECU. i hardly ever take it past 95 though
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eluder200K »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
...and people blame it on the "weak tranny"
don't full throttle shift unless you want to break ****, it's not worth it on a street car. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You can totally overrev with the clutch down and full throttle!! The smell of metal on metal burning at 10krpm is not something you want to be familiar with...
The fuelcut/rev limiter doesn't work the same when the clutch is down right? (Please correct me if I'm wrong, I don't have the guts to prove it in mine).
On that note, my skunk2 won't bounce until 9500 or so... but I'm even scared to shift beyond 9100-9200 (not that I don't do it on occasion
...) even though I have the valvetrain to handle it...
...and people blame it on the "weak tranny"
don't full throttle shift unless you want to break ****, it's not worth it on a street car. </TD></TR></TABLE>You can totally overrev with the clutch down and full throttle!! The smell of metal on metal burning at 10krpm is not something you want to be familiar with...
The fuelcut/rev limiter doesn't work the same when the clutch is down right? (Please correct me if I'm wrong, I don't have the guts to prove it in mine).
On that note, my skunk2 won't bounce until 9500 or so... but I'm even scared to shift beyond 9100-9200 (not that I don't do it on occasion
...) even though I have the valvetrain to handle it...
actually - i should have also added that you should full throttle shift without having some ECU modifications like the hondata full throttle shift feature - yes, trying to do that without such help, unless your really really good, will cause damnage to your engine.
Sorry for any confusion caused.
Sorry for any confusion caused.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Assuming your motor is completely stock, shifting slightly above 8100 and before redline will keep you solidly in the maximum acceleration range of VTEC in the next higher gear.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Shift just before the revlimiter (8600? i'm not sure) or at the redline (8400) is the best. If you look at a dyno chart of a stock b18c5, it is easy to see why this is the best place to shift. You dont even really need to do any math, its obvious which area under the curve is greater than others.
If you shift closer to 8000-8100, you are shortchanging yourself. Learn to know when the revlimiter kicks in and shift just before that.
Edit: previous thread: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=161176
I feel better about my answer already
Edit2: I forgot to mention that you want to look at the torque on the dyno graph moreso than the HP.
Modified by Chris N at 4:40 PM 12/1/2003
Assuming your motor is completely stock, shifting slightly above 8100 and before redline will keep you solidly in the maximum acceleration range of VTEC in the next higher gear.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Shift just before the revlimiter (8600? i'm not sure) or at the redline (8400) is the best. If you look at a dyno chart of a stock b18c5, it is easy to see why this is the best place to shift. You dont even really need to do any math, its obvious which area under the curve is greater than others.
If you shift closer to 8000-8100, you are shortchanging yourself. Learn to know when the revlimiter kicks in and shift just before that.
Edit: previous thread: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=161176
I feel better about my answer already

Edit2: I forgot to mention that you want to look at the torque on the dyno graph moreso than the HP.
Modified by Chris N at 4:40 PM 12/1/2003
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris N »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Shift just before the revlimiter (8600? i'm not sure) or at the redline (8400) is the best. If you look at a dyno chart of a stock b18c5, it is easy to see why this is the best place to shift. You dont even really need to do any math, its obvious which area under the curve is greater than others.
If you shift closer to 8000-8100, you are shortchanging yourself. Learn to know when the revlimiter kicks in and shift just before that.
Edit: previous thread: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=161176
I feel better about my answer already
</TD></TR></TABLE>
This guy knows what he's talking about.
If you shift closer to 8000-8100, you are shortchanging yourself. Learn to know when the revlimiter kicks in and shift just before that.
Edit: previous thread: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=161176
I feel better about my answer already
</TD></TR></TABLE>This guy knows what he's talking about.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sqwerz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i shift at 9100 rpm with the JUN ecu</TD></TR></TABLE>
I shift at 9100 rpm with the ITR ecu
I shift at 9100 rpm with the ITR ecu
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SleepnCiViC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what rpm is the revlimiter at??</TD></TR></TABLE>
Anywhere between 8500-9100 rpm, Just rev it up until it kicks in, than you will know.
Anywhere between 8500-9100 rpm, Just rev it up until it kicks in, than you will know.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR#132 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I shift at 9100 rpm with the ITR ecu
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Is that 9100 on the stock tach, or 9100 on an aftermarket tach?
</TD></TR></TABLE>Is that 9100 on the stock tach, or 9100 on an aftermarket tach?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR#132 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Anywhere between 8500-9100 rpm, Just rev it up until it kicks in, than you will know.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The stock rev limiter is not variable... it is around 8550-8600. Sure, you can have it altered or you may have an ecu with a different rev limiter, but stock is not 8500-9100.
Anywhere between 8500-9100 rpm, Just rev it up until it kicks in, than you will know.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The stock rev limiter is not variable... it is around 8550-8600. Sure, you can have it altered or you may have an ecu with a different rev limiter, but stock is not 8500-9100.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc231 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Is that 9100 on the stock tach, or 9100 on an aftermarket tach?</TD></TR></TABLE>
aftermarket of stock.. unles you alter the fuel cuttof point inside ecu, its going to stay at stock point (can't remember if its 8400-8500rpm)
Is that 9100 on the stock tach, or 9100 on an aftermarket tach?</TD></TR></TABLE>
aftermarket of stock.. unles you alter the fuel cuttof point inside ecu, its going to stay at stock point (can't remember if its 8400-8500rpm)



