i have a GSR and will be building the motor in january. i want everything to be able to handle 9000 rpm with the least stess possible.not sure if i should upgrade my bearings:i only have 60k on the motor. well so far ive come up with this:
cp pistons or ib wiseco 11.8-12:1
arp rod bolts
honda oem or mugen head gasket
skunk2 valvesprings (for my stage 1's)
EF-1, JUN,ferrea retainers

any inputs on experience or anything else i may have missed would be helpful. i only wanna take this motor apart once. thanks guys

 

definatley replace the bearings while you are there. ARP head studs is a good addition, and make sure that you get the rods big end bored after you install the arp rod bolts. upgrade your oil pump also maybe to a pro drive, for more oil pressure. just some ideas.

I also dont really like after market head gaskets unless I need to use them. other then that 3 layer oem is good in my opinion.

 

crower springs/retainers.. i run the **** outta my cars and i have never had a problem with them.. i turn atleast 9.5 almost every day..

 

why would you get the big rod ends rebored after bolt install? how would you find the correct bearing to use?
thanks
Luis

 

anybody have any more info? i'd like to know too

 

Because sometimes the installation of the arp rod bolts distorts the big end bore of the rod. The machinin is done simply to ensure that the bore is true and round, and not a oval.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JaeOne3345 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Because sometimes the installation of the arp rod bolts distorts the big end bore of the rod. The machinin is done simply to ensure that the bore is true and round, and not a oval.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well its important to check 1st before you do any machining. ill have to put on the bolts to see. any one else ever have to do this?

 

i just installed arp rod bolts and i didn't rebore the holes and it fit with the tap of a hammer which i was told how it would be.

 

I just put the ARP's in my GSR as well. New green bearings and she's smoother than ever. (Didn't help that the valve was BENT!)

 

you might want to look into some lighter rods. the stock GSR rods arent the best for such high revs. you might be able to get away with it, but since you got it all apart you might as well get something good in there. if youre gonna go with the EF-1 retainers, you might as well get the valve springs too. they were designed to work together, thus they fit perfectly together. do some research on them, you will be impressed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95gsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why would you get the big rod ends rebored after bolt install? how would you find the correct bearing to use?
thanks
Luis</TD></TR></TABLE>

its called resizing the rods..big end bore..yes it is very common that they get distorted after a bolt replacment...(the original size bearing should be sufficiant)dont think just cause u can bolt everything together and the motor runs that your big end bore isnt distorted...it can cause premature and uneven bearing ware....have it checked after the install...(cheap insurance).....it isnt always neccasary, but dont think since the other guy didnt have to u dont! it alwayts will vary from motor to motor,part to part, ..etc u get the point..

 

you think that if i check it with a bore gauge that would be enough of course I would check 4 or 5 spots and make sure they are the same thanks again
ps motor is sitting in my basement. thanks

 

You really need to use a precision dial bore gauge, for rods, that measures to .0001's. The rod is rotated around the gauge and you can see exactly how many tenths it is out of round, if any. I have seen some new conecting rod bolts offset the cap so I'd definitly get them checked.