Lookin to tidy up my suspension...
Alright well looks like I'm stuck w/ my GSR, so I want to make the car into a corner carver. I've got Tokico Blue shocks and Neuspeed *sport* springs, and the car has WAY more body roll than I'd like. Drove my dad's '94 300zx today, stock everything, but I beleive swaybar(s) and suspension bushings, that thing is like its on rails! I was wondering what could I do to eliminate some more body roll. I was thinking all around strut bars, maybe the Beaks(sp?) ITR swaybar kit, something of that effect....any feedback/input from real-life experience is greatly appreciated!
MAtt
PS-I'm not looking to spend a fortune, and this is my daily driver, so no insane sh*t. TIA!
Modified by GSRBoy at 2:29 AM 12/2/2003
MAtt
PS-I'm not looking to spend a fortune, and this is my daily driver, so no insane sh*t. TIA!
Modified by GSRBoy at 2:29 AM 12/2/2003
I Just did a simi Suspension build up on my 91 Hatch. Started with lowering springs and some bushings. Helped the car hug the ground a little better. Then did a full set of Strut bars and and lower Tie bars. I think if your going to do a lot do it in steps because you will feel a huge diffrenence. And just reciently did a rear swaybar. Helps the car keep the back end planted. When you do the Strut bars make sure they are a type that you can load. This makes a huge diffrence. I just bought a cheap set of Ebay but the made the car stiffer then my friend 91 hatch that has DC bars because he can't load his.
Next for me is adj. shocks and better springs.
Next for me is adj. shocks and better springs.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 9,633
Likes: 1
From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
to get rid of body roll you can basically do 3 things (in order of effectiveness):
1. get a stiffer sway bar.
2. get stiffer springs.
3. get all that other chassis stiffening stuff
1. get a stiffer sway bar.
2. get stiffer springs.
3. get all that other chassis stiffening stuff
I would say custom rate G controls with an ITR sway bar.Even with Koni yellows on the front set on full firm its not tight enough,if they have the same rates like 360 lbs f and 450 r like H&R race.The rear feels fine though IMO.
i'm running koni yellows and neuspeed race springs on 17"'s, both set on middle perch, car is very tight, very little body roll (i'm sure with an ITR swaybar and possible one in the trunk it would be even better)
get a set of swaybars(eibach, itr, possibly suspension techniques). it should get rid of most of the body roll. You may want to consider better shocks as well.
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TTA1457 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I Just did a simi Suspension build up on my 91 Hatch. Started with lowering springs and some bushings. Helped the car hug the ground a little better. Then did a full set of Strut bars and and lower Tie bars. I think if your going to do a lot do it in steps because you will feel a huge diffrenence. And just reciently did a rear swaybar. Helps the car keep the back end planted. When you do the Strut bars make sure they are a type that you can load. This makes a huge diffrence. I just bought a cheap set of Ebay but the made the car stiffer then my friend 91 hatch that has DC bars because he can't load his.
Next for me is adj. shocks and better springs. </TD></TR></TABLE>
whats handling load?
Next for me is adj. shocks and better springs. </TD></TR></TABLE>
whats handling load?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B-money »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
whats handling load?</TD></TR></TABLE>
http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racet....html
whats handling load?</TD></TR></TABLE>
http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racet....html
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntEGNYC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">youre comparing a different car in differnent class alltogether.
tell your teg and get a used 300z.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wasn't meaning I wanted my Integra to outhandle the Z, just I wanted a comparable ride: flat tracking, solid, etc.
MAtt
tell your teg and get a used 300z.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wasn't meaning I wanted my Integra to outhandle the Z, just I wanted a comparable ride: flat tracking, solid, etc.
MAtt
yeah matt some yoko avs es100
oh btw - you have neuspeed SPORT springs right?
id suggest kyb agx adjustables, sway bars (JDM itr 23mm
& BSQ or Beaks mounting kit), strut bars, and tires
Brad
oh btw - you have neuspeed SPORT springs right?
id suggest kyb agx adjustables, sway bars (JDM itr 23mm
& BSQ or Beaks mounting kit), strut bars, and tiresBrad
ok... cuz i'm a picture *****....
this 4pt bar from neuspeed to tighten up the front a bit (See Tom @ lightningmotorsports.com)
and the ITR rear sway bar cuz its a world of difference in my opinion
and you can see my own comparison pics of LS vs ITR
and this depending on your drop... cuz susp. mods are nothing without proper alignment
thats it for the pics... but as for other suggestions... a rear tower bar & some tie bars may help.... and some sticky tires. oh and my site has some great pics of install on some of this stuff if you need it...
-Eric
this 4pt bar from neuspeed to tighten up the front a bit (See Tom @ lightningmotorsports.com)
and the ITR rear sway bar cuz its a world of difference in my opinion
and you can see my own comparison pics of LS vs ITR
and this depending on your drop... cuz susp. mods are nothing without proper alignment
thats it for the pics... but as for other suggestions... a rear tower bar & some tie bars may help.... and some sticky tires. oh and my site has some great pics of install on some of this stuff if you need it...
-Eric
someone on another message board said I'd have to purchase ITR LCA's for the sway bar...I thought I just needed the sway bar and either the BSQ or beeks kit?
MAtt
MAtt
You only need ITR LCA's for coilover assemblies (shocks+springs) designed for an ITR. For the sway bar, you need your ITR bar (duh) and a reinforcement kit (Beaks/BSQ). And maybe put some polyurethane bushings on it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get better shocks
and get itr rear sway
it will handle awesome</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree! That's what I did.
and get itr rear sway
it will handle awesome</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree! That's what I did.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GTScott »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You only need ITR LCA's for coilover assemblies (shocks+springs) designed for an ITR. For the sway bar, you need your ITR bar (duh) and a reinforcement kit (Beaks/BSQ). And maybe put some polyurethane bushings on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thank you, someone on another board posted "you need ITR LCA's for the sway bar to fit"...and I was just like wtf I've never heard that before?! Anyone know where the cheapest place to pick up an ITR sway bar is? Or should I just go through to Acura Dealer? I can get 20% off if I order through them....
MAtt
Thank you, someone on another board posted "you need ITR LCA's for the sway bar to fit"...and I was just like wtf I've never heard that before?! Anyone know where the cheapest place to pick up an ITR sway bar is? Or should I just go through to Acura Dealer? I can get 20% off if I order through them....
MAtt
i got mine used and i found it on thepartstrader.com but i would suggest u only go thru there if u are gonna pick up... cuz there are some shady mo ****** out there. Or u can jus pick it up new from teh dealership like ur sayin... and get a bsq kit from bsq on this board... thats what i do.... if u wanna kno whats involved in the instal... check out my site(linked below in my sig) and go to the diy section.
so you wanna improve the handling of your car but you don't want to sacrifice daily driving comfort. sorry pal, somewhere along the line you have to make a sacrifice. those two do not go hand in hand.
before you start buying all the stuff everyone is telling you to do, you first need to understand why your integra doesn't handle like the Z. The Z has a better roll couple distribution and better weight distribution than an integra. Not too big of a problem to overcome.
why do integras understeer and have massive body roll? cause they have a lawyer friendly roll couple dist and are very softly sprung. Again, easy problem to overcome.
My suggestion? First start with some proper dampers. I would strongly recommend Koni Sports (Yellows). Next I would get some stiffer springs. However, I would stay away from lowering springs like eibach race, prokit, sportline, neuspeed race etc etc. While they are indeed stiffer, they still keep the lawyer friendly roll couple distribution (simple explaination, they put stiffer springs up front and softer springs out back). I would get a set of Ground Control threaded coil-over perches. You can also order whatever spring rates you want from GC, you just have to tell them you want XX lbs/in up front and XX lbs/in out back. I would try 300lbs/in up front and 350 lbs/in out back or 350lbs/in front and 400 lbs/in out back. That will give you a more favorable roll couple dist, while maintaining a relatively civil ride on the street. If you intend on slamming the car, also get a set of GC upper shock mounts so you won't be all over the front bumpstops.
You don't need to get set of expensive JDM coil-overs to have the ability to adjust damping and ride height. The set-up I just described costs less than most JDM coil-overs, and will perform equally, if not better. I have seen JDM shocks dyno'd, and on more than one occasion there is no difference in the curve when you turn the **** from soft to firm. That means you just paid ~1200 bux for a set of shiny coil-overs that don't actually have 24 different adjustments, you've been had. Plus, with koni's it's cheaper to rebuild/revalve/shorten in the future.
And you do not need a camber kit. I repeat you do not need a camber kit. I've said it a million times before, and I'll say it again. Negative camber does NOT wear the insides of your tires out faster. Excessive toe out causes excessive inside tire wear.
Keep in mind that I have a koni coil-over setup on my car and it has proved to be the most vital modification I've made, so I may be a tad bit biased
And I run pretty high spring rates and would not be considered someone who is easy on equipment. I run anywhere from 20-30 autocrosses a year and daily drive my car.
before you start buying all the stuff everyone is telling you to do, you first need to understand why your integra doesn't handle like the Z. The Z has a better roll couple distribution and better weight distribution than an integra. Not too big of a problem to overcome.
why do integras understeer and have massive body roll? cause they have a lawyer friendly roll couple dist and are very softly sprung. Again, easy problem to overcome.
My suggestion? First start with some proper dampers. I would strongly recommend Koni Sports (Yellows). Next I would get some stiffer springs. However, I would stay away from lowering springs like eibach race, prokit, sportline, neuspeed race etc etc. While they are indeed stiffer, they still keep the lawyer friendly roll couple distribution (simple explaination, they put stiffer springs up front and softer springs out back). I would get a set of Ground Control threaded coil-over perches. You can also order whatever spring rates you want from GC, you just have to tell them you want XX lbs/in up front and XX lbs/in out back. I would try 300lbs/in up front and 350 lbs/in out back or 350lbs/in front and 400 lbs/in out back. That will give you a more favorable roll couple dist, while maintaining a relatively civil ride on the street. If you intend on slamming the car, also get a set of GC upper shock mounts so you won't be all over the front bumpstops.
You don't need to get set of expensive JDM coil-overs to have the ability to adjust damping and ride height. The set-up I just described costs less than most JDM coil-overs, and will perform equally, if not better. I have seen JDM shocks dyno'd, and on more than one occasion there is no difference in the curve when you turn the **** from soft to firm. That means you just paid ~1200 bux for a set of shiny coil-overs that don't actually have 24 different adjustments, you've been had. Plus, with koni's it's cheaper to rebuild/revalve/shorten in the future.
And you do not need a camber kit. I repeat you do not need a camber kit. I've said it a million times before, and I'll say it again. Negative camber does NOT wear the insides of your tires out faster. Excessive toe out causes excessive inside tire wear.
Keep in mind that I have a koni coil-over setup on my car and it has proved to be the most vital modification I've made, so I may be a tad bit biased
And I run pretty high spring rates and would not be considered someone who is easy on equipment. I run anywhere from 20-30 autocrosses a year and daily drive my car.
if ur still looking for the itr rear sway bar kit... well check this out...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=695474
some dood is sellin it in classifieds.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=695474
some dood is sellin it in classifieds.


