hey guys

I got a 94 Accord LX and today my engine cut out on me twice while I was driving. The CEL light came on, battery light, and oil light. I had to pull over and wait a couple minutes before it would start up again. When I got to school I took it into the shop and checked it out turned out my oil was really low, so I added some. I was just wondering if that could have caused my car to do what it did, and whether or not I'd need to reset my ECU? Also, if I do need to reset the ECU do I need a radio code for the factory tape deck?

Any help would be great. Thanks

 

There was one time my car shut off on me and the battery light turned on for that moment. After I got it started again, it didn't come on again. Did your battery light stay on or did it turn off after you were able to start it? The only way I know how to reset the ecu is to undo the battery terminal and that will make the radio ask for the code. There might be other ways to reset the ecu, but I wouldn't know. If after you added oil to your car and the oil light turned off, I wouldn't even worry about resetting the ecu.

 

Well it just happened to me again this morning dropping my mom off. This is with the new oil I added yesterday when I checked the dip stick. So I really don't know what it could be. My friend was telling me how it could be the o2 sensor? So i dont know could that be it?

 

Mines doing the same thing. Especially when I run her hard. When I get to a stop, it cuts out. Takes a minute, and it'll start up. I think mine is fuel or ignition related. Just haven't had any time to check it out yet.

 

Yeah dude. I'm starting to think its fuel related. But I don't know for sure what it is just a hunch of mine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lonely_Driver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey guys

I got a 94 Accord LX and today my engine cut out on me twice while I was driving. The CEL light came on, battery light, and oil light. I had to pull over and wait a couple minutes before it would start up again. When I got to school I took it into the shop and checked it out turned out my oil was really low, so I added some. I was just wondering if that could have caused my car to do what it did, and whether or not I'd need to reset my ECU? Also, if I do need to reset the ECU do I need a radio code for the factory tape deck?

Any help would be great. Thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>

You will need to check the code. Then repost the code. However, It could be a bad main relay.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lonely_Driver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah dude. I'm starting to think its fuel related. But I don't know for sure what it is just a hunch of mine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hooking up a fuel presure gauge will verify a presure problem. Have you checked for spark when it is acting up?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HONDADNA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It could be a bad main relay.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Main relays very rarely cause stalling problems. That wouldn't be the first thing i'd look into.

 

you might want to check for continuity in the ignition cotrol module too, refer to the shop manual

 

****, engine cut out on me again, in traffic. Before it cut out I was slowing to get off the highway, and when I pressed on the gas, if felt like there was no power (really sluggish). I floored it, then my car backfired (really loud) and the car started to move again. Came to a stop light, and it died. Had to push it into a parking lot. It finally restarted after I caught my breath. I need to find out wtf is up with my car. I checked the plugs, and it looks like it's running rich. I'm thinking it must be ignition/timing related, since my car is backfiring and plugs looks like it's running rich.

 

I just replaced the Main Relay and it is still stalling. I just went out and bought some of that STP Fuel Injector Cleaner fuel additive so I'll see if that is the problem.

And can one of you guys give me some instructions as to how to check what code my ECU is giving?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lonely_Driver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just replaced the Main Relay and it is still stalling. I just went out and bought some of that STP Fuel Injector Cleaner fuel additive so I'll see if that is the problem.

And can one of you guys give me some instructions as to how to check what code my ECU is giving?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I told you main relays rarely cause stalling problems.

You didn't say anything about your CEL being on. Jump the service check connector under/behind the glove box.

 

I would check to see of you have any loose grounds. I had a bad ground and it used to cause the same problem. I cleaned up the engine ground and ever since then it has been fine for me....

other things to check

cracked distributor cap
bad ignition module
bad crank position sensor

 

It's stalled once since adding the Injector Cleaner but it started up right away no waiting involved. I'll have to check what CEL code its throwing but I'll be pretty busy tomorrow so I most likely won't know till Monday.

 

****! Died again today. Had to wait a couple of minutes, and it started up again. WTF!!!

 

I'd definately check the ignition module

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YeuEmMaiMai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd definately check the ignition module</TD></TR></TABLE>
What procedure do you use to diagnose a possible intermittent igniter problem?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chiovnidca &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What procedure do you use to diagnose a possible intermittent igniter problem?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah. I'd also like to know how I can check to see if it really is an igniter problem.

 

Just for reference, I'm running a MSD ignition. 6AL, SS blaster coil, and wires. Do you guys think it might be the 6AL?

 

start the car cold and use a hair dryer to heat that puppy up. if it fails then you know that is the reason the car is stalling intermittemtly. you can use a heat gun but you are likely to melt the plastic housing.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YeuEmMaiMai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">start the car cold and use a hair dryer to heat that puppy up. if it fails then you know that is the reason the car is stalling intermittemtly. you can use a heat gun but you are likely to melt the plastic housing.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL

 

It works, I have done it on a few cars to test for thermal failure

 

Also in the manual there is a way to test the igniter by using an ohm meter. I should tell you all the contacts to touch and what the reading should be. If any one of them is off manufacturer specs it is bad.