HELP!: AC Problem: Can you tell me how fast your compressor and idle boost shut off?
I'm about too loose it with my car. At this point, I'm guessing the AC guy really screwed something up.
Yesterday, I explained the problem in the following post. Here´s the summary:
The engine RPMs drop to a near stall whenever I shut off my AC (via main switch o thermostat cutoff):
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=689068
Today, I tried loosening the tension on the pulley belt, with no success. The engine RPMs still drop when I shut off my AC. I spun the pulley with the belt off, and it spins freely. The AC guy messed with the relays, so maybe there's something wrong in the way everything is connected.
This morning, I checked the voltage at the compressor clutch, and when the thermostat cuts off, it drops slowly from 12 volts to 0, in about 2 or 3 seconds. Is this normal? Can someone check it on their car? Maybe its just the way my voltmeter reads.
If this is OK, I can conclude that the clutch is receiving voltage when it should, which leaves only the idle boost as the possible culprit. Maybe the idle boost is cutting off too soon. Should it cut off with the fan and compressor clutch, or a few seconds later? Can someone check this on their car?
Thanks!
Yesterday, I explained the problem in the following post. Here´s the summary:
The engine RPMs drop to a near stall whenever I shut off my AC (via main switch o thermostat cutoff):
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=689068
Today, I tried loosening the tension on the pulley belt, with no success. The engine RPMs still drop when I shut off my AC. I spun the pulley with the belt off, and it spins freely. The AC guy messed with the relays, so maybe there's something wrong in the way everything is connected.
This morning, I checked the voltage at the compressor clutch, and when the thermostat cuts off, it drops slowly from 12 volts to 0, in about 2 or 3 seconds. Is this normal? Can someone check it on their car? Maybe its just the way my voltmeter reads.
If this is OK, I can conclude that the clutch is receiving voltage when it should, which leaves only the idle boost as the possible culprit. Maybe the idle boost is cutting off too soon. Should it cut off with the fan and compressor clutch, or a few seconds later? Can someone check this on their car?
Thanks!
In looking at the online manual at icelord.com, I found that the ecu does play a part in this. There is some extensive testing to be done with the wiring in the harness. Check it out. Also, your voltmeter reading slow is not the problem (test it on your battery-pos to pos neg to ground-remove opne quickly see voltage drop quickly) the problem is probably in the clutch. It sounds as though the idle control gets the signal that your ac is shutting off so it drops the idle, but the clutch is disengaging slowly and dragging down rpm. I would replace the clutch. -Like I said in your previous post (I know ac-I'm in AZ) if you don't use the ac regularly, it is easy for the clutch to rust up or fail.
I ended up taking everything apart on Saturday morning. Turns out the brilliant AC guy for some reason soldered a bridge between the fan and compressor clutch relays, so when the fans came on, so did the compressor. The delay in the clutch was also due to this connection (although I have no idea why). Right now, everything works perfectly.
Thanks for your help.
Thanks for your help.
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