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JDM ITR Rear Sway bar

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Old Nov 26, 2003 | 03:53 PM
  #1  
JDMx05's Avatar
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From: what ni99a, what, huh
Default JDM ITR Rear Sway bar

Sup guys ive been doing a search about the rear sway bars, but im nervous to put it on because do to the fact that some people on H-T has gotten their subframe ripped out even with a beaks kit! now that the beaks/bsq kit isnt safe what other options are there? and do u also gotta chissel off a weld nut? Can some of u guys tell me anything good or bad about the bsq/beaks?

Thanks
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Old Nov 26, 2003 | 07:53 PM
  #2  
Tweakmeister's Avatar
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From: Edgewater, MD / La Jolla, CA
Default Re: JDM ITR Rear Sway bar (JDMx05)

I go Loonie Toons with my beaks/22mm and have a 23mm waiting to go on.

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Old Nov 26, 2003 | 09:22 PM
  #3  
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Default Re: JDM ITR Rear Sway bar (Tweakmeister)

With the BSQ kit that I had on my Integra, I don't see how it could rip out at all. It was pretty solid. I do some pretty crazy driving and nothing happened. There are some autocross guys here that probably drive harder than I do and theirs are fine as well.

The horror stories you heard of are probably few and far in between...most probably caused by an incorrect install.

Anyway, with the welded nut thing. Yes you have to remove the spot welded nut from the rear of the subframe mount. It is simply spot welded, so it doesn't take much force to remove it. I believe the instructions on the BSQ kit was to partly unscrew the bolt and just hammer it hard so it pops the nut out on the other side. Took me about 2 minutes total for both sides.

Easy and no problems.
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Old Nov 26, 2003 | 10:54 PM
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Default Re: JDM ITR Rear Sway bar (shamoo)

i don't think you have to worry to much about it if you are just doing it for a daily driver. just double check your install and make sure everything is tight.
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Old Nov 26, 2003 | 11:19 PM
  #5  
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Default Re: JDM ITR Rear Sway bar (shamoo)

just follow the directions on the welded nuts and you will be alright
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shamoo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Anyway, with the welded nut thing. Yes you have to remove the spot welded nut from the rear of the subframe mount. It is simply spot welded, so it doesn't take much force to remove it. I believe the instructions on the BSQ kit was to partly unscrew the bolt and just hammer it hard so it pops the nut out on the other side. Took me about 2 minutes total for both sides.
</TD></TR></TABLE>


Modified by WalkmanX at 2:35 AM 11/27/2003
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Old Nov 27, 2003 | 02:45 AM
  #6  
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From: what ni99a, what, huh
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hey thanx guys for the help.. but i do some crazy driving myself daily. where is the differents between beaks and bsq? where can i get the better one? and once i get that son of a bitch on there ill tell yall about the good news!
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Old Nov 27, 2003 | 03:10 AM
  #7  
IntEGNYC's Avatar
 
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From: New York, NY, USA
Default Re: (JDMx05)

where are the differences, not where is the differents.

beaks and bsq kits are vastly different. look up both websites and you'll answer your own question. by the sounds of it, if you did search, you haven't read the results carefully.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMx05 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey thanx guys for the help.. but i do some crazy driving myself daily. where is the differents between beaks and bsq? where can i get the better one? and once i get that son of a bitch on there ill tell yall about the good news!</TD></TR></TABLE>
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Old Nov 27, 2003 | 04:01 AM
  #8  
JDMx05's Avatar
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From: what ni99a, what, huh
Default Re: (IntEGNYC)

i did search both but i wanan know what people like more beaks or bsq.
btw dont correct me!
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