me and a friend have been completely re-wiring a 90 CRX Si which has a D16Z6 engine thrown into it...

everything seems to work OK except that the starter wont engage... i put a multimeter up to the starter connector and when the car is being started there is no voltage... then i took the volt meter to the yel-blk distributor wire that also runs to the ignition and i got 12V when the key was turned...

i also tested the continuity of the starter wire from the ignition key to the connector in the engine bay and it is going all the way through.

is there sumthing i could have overlooked that would keep the starter from engaging?

this car is a manual car and we are pressing in the clutch when trying to start it... is there a clutch engage sensor that kills the starter? we didnt see anything connecting to the clutch pedal at all...

thanx in advanced for any help

 

Are you sure this starter worked before? Try installing a good known starter to see if it works. You can also jump the current starter, and see if it turns. Just run a wire from the positive terminal to the spade connector on the starter to see if it jumps. If so, then it might be that the starter is bad.

 

There is a heavy wire that runs to it that carries constant battery voltage. You should always get 12V when testing between it and the starter housing with a voltmeter. If you aren't seeing that then try testing that heavy wire and hook your negative lead to the directly to the negative pole on the battery. You should have 12V. If not, then replace that heavy wire. If you DO, then check your grounds.

 

ended up fixing it... we bought sum 10 guage wire and spliced it onto the back of the underdash fusebox and ran it straight to the starter and now it starts up on its own...

now time to trouble shoot the rest of the problems..hehe

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by filthyCREX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> then i took the volt meter to the yel-blk distributor wire that also runs to the ignition and i got 12V when the key was turned...

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Most Honda's have lead that is Black with White stripe that goes to the starter solenoid.

 

i fixed it. We by-passed the stater cable... cut it from the fuse box, wiring another cable in with the stock wiring harness. We cut the connect off of the old harness and added it to the new wiring. Works fine now and starts up no problem.

Thanks for all of your help!

 

you know I think all it was was your CPP (clutch pedal position sensor) its a mechanical sensor (power side switch) that closes the points when the clutch is engaged......(pedal depressed)

if the sensor is broke/bad wiring/ or not grounded it wont work creating an open still giving you continuity to the starter and showing good battery voltage but when trying to crank the car the potential for voltage to flow is not there it stops at the switch...

by going from the fuse box to the starter you just bypassed it.....no biggie?

can you by chance start the car without engagin the clutch now?

 

im pretty sure it was just faulty wiring in the harness... because when i tested btwn the fusebox and the engne bay... i would get .43 ohms of reistance... but from the ignition to the fusebox it was ZERO.... now the car starts on its own, i havent tried without the clutch engaged...

where in the engine bay is this CPP u speak of?

 

That is on the the pedal assembly. If you look up under the dash and follow the clutch pedal up you will see the switch up there. There is a similar on for the brake lights.

 

i guess we missed that.. we have a few connectors that aren't where they should be.. lol.. probably that.

 

I fig. it was the CPP...sounds good though...

and the brake switch is called the BOO (brake on/off) it controls your brake lights it also deals with abs...if you have it and it regulates cruise control if you have it..

how else do you think cruise control cuts out when you hit the brakes (in a car with cruise of course)