wjat does it take for a 10,000 rpm redling???
My dream engine would safely rev to 10,000 RPM, what would it take to make an engine that stable.
Wish list:
b181 block (I can get one for like 100 bucks)
Darton sleaves
b18b crank, speed balenced
CM lightened flywheel
Crower Rods
Je pistons
z10 block gridle
b16a2 vtech head
crower dual valve springs
titanium retainors
crower valves
GSR cams
Hondata
This is what I want to do somday!
Would this engine easally rev to 10K??? or maybee more??? It not, what whould it take???
Wish list:
b181 block (I can get one for like 100 bucks)
Darton sleaves
b18b crank, speed balenced
CM lightened flywheel
Crower Rods
Je pistons
z10 block gridle
b16a2 vtech head
crower dual valve springs
titanium retainors
crower valves
GSR cams
Hondata
This is what I want to do somday!
Would this engine easally rev to 10K??? or maybee more??? It not, what whould it take???
How long do you want your engine to last?
Any motor that revs to 10k on any kind of regular basis will not last long, especially since you will still have a rod ratio of 1.54.
If however you decide to do this I would suggest that you get a deck plate to allow you to have a longer rod and thus a better rod ratio.
Not only will your bottom end be strained but valve springs start reaching their limits and you would have to check them regularly and replace them fairly often. You would probably need a direct acting valvtrain to sustain these revs. Guess what hondas don't have this.
Any motor that revs to 10k on any kind of regular basis will not last long, especially since you will still have a rod ratio of 1.54.
If however you decide to do this I would suggest that you get a deck plate to allow you to have a longer rod and thus a better rod ratio.
Not only will your bottom end be strained but valve springs start reaching their limits and you would have to check them regularly and replace them fairly often. You would probably need a direct acting valvtrain to sustain these revs. Guess what hondas don't have this.
A b20 block with a b17 crank give a near perfect rod/stroke ratio.....i think.....it will make a 1.8 L.....check the hybrid board for that info. if you were gonna make a 10k rpm motor, rod stroke ratio would be crucial.
The reason I want GSR cams, I forgot to add, is I don't want to go all motor, I want a TurboNetics ceramic ball bearing turbo, blitz blow off valve, trial waist gate, south florida performace turbo manifold, ITR intake manifold, fuel rail(havent decided what kind yet), RC 550 injectors, bosh fuel pump, A'pex boost controler, spearco itercooler, custom madrel 3" exhust and all madrel piping(local shop will do all the madrel bedning for next to nothing, the only shop with the madrel machine within 150 miles of me), Moroso oul pan, gsr oil pump.
As you can see this is my huge wish list that I want to have done by this time next year. Its a stretch, but I think I can do it.
How much would a B20 block run me??? The reason I chose the B18a is cause there is one at the local import junk jard for dirt cheep, its actually the block from one of my best friends totaled 2g integra. Any info about the B20 block with b17 crank would be nice!!!
As you can see this is my huge wish list that I want to have done by this time next year. Its a stretch, but I think I can do it.
How much would a B20 block run me??? The reason I chose the B18a is cause there is one at the local import junk jard for dirt cheep, its actually the block from one of my best friends totaled 2g integra. Any info about the B20 block with b17 crank would be nice!!!
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Im getting all of the parts cost + 15% so I will get all of the parts signifcally cheeper than what they retail for. so I added it all up and it shoud run about $6000 all together. the only thing I will have to pay full price for is the South Florida Performace turbo Manifold, Hondata and getting the block re-sleeved by Darton.
Can you guys tell be what that setup would redline at??? not the B20, but the B18a block???
Can you guys tell be what that setup would redline at??? not the B20, but the B18a block???
I doubt you'll make power past 9500. I'm highballin that.
High rpm's doesn't essentially mean your gonna go faster.
RPMS=RUINS PEOPLES MOTORS
If you can make the same power at a lower rpm say 8600 your engine would be so much safer that way.
[Modified by FAST94GSR, 1:54 AM 9/15/2001]
High rpm's doesn't essentially mean your gonna go faster.
RPMS=RUINS PEOPLES MOTORS
If you can make the same power at a lower rpm say 8600 your engine would be so much safer that way.
[Modified by FAST94GSR, 1:54 AM 9/15/2001]
i rev to 9.. and let me tell you.. its scary sounding.
Thers no piont in revving above 8 in gsr cams.. you are jus wasitng money man... b20 block is about 900$
Thers no piont in revving above 8 in gsr cams.. you are jus wasitng money man... b20 block is about 900$
yeah 10,000 is pretty crazy. im planning to rev to 9,500 on my turbo motor. and i wouldnt get those crower springs they arent that good i would go with some JUN ones. and also another thing to consider is the Roller Rocker sysytem made my ferrera and crane.
Gsr cams are not going to make power at 10000rpm. i thikn they only make power up to 8200 if i remember correctly. no need to rev to 10000rpm unless your car makes power there
get the eagle rods, not crower. Its a better rod, and 300$ less.
also stick with a stock flywheel, not the clutchmasters. no one likes that thing
finally, i recommend a vtec head, not a vtech one
(i do have a vtech portable phone tho.... it works really well)
[Modified by z10 geoff, 5:58 PM 9/15/2001]
also stick with a stock flywheel, not the clutchmasters. no one likes that thing
finally, i recommend a vtec head, not a vtech one
(i do have a vtech portable phone tho.... it works really well)[Modified by z10 geoff, 5:58 PM 9/15/2001]
doesn't Tony the Tiger's car rev fairly close to 10,000rpms? i think it's like 9,600 or something. but he's sunk a fortune into that beautiful car so....you get what you pay for.
if i were you i wouldn't raise your redline nearly that high (if it all). and just build your bottom end and turbo it. probably a little cheaper and more reliable. not to mention more "useable" power.
if i were you i wouldn't raise your redline nearly that high (if it all). and just build your bottom end and turbo it. probably a little cheaper and more reliable. not to mention more "useable" power.
This is getting ridiculous, why if you can make the power at 8500 rpm would you want to put the wear on the motor. just so you cansay you have a 10000 rpm redline.
More like 7600 rpms.
ITR cams pull to like 8000 rpms.
The cam profile dictates the redline. Reving to 10k rpms for no reason is kind of stupid. If you can make power up there, then that's different. You either choose one or the other, NA or turbo, don't think you can accomplish both and still be able to drive it.
ITR cams pull to like 8000 rpms.
The cam profile dictates the redline. Reving to 10k rpms for no reason is kind of stupid. If you can make power up there, then that's different. You either choose one or the other, NA or turbo, don't think you can accomplish both and still be able to drive it.
The really annoying part is that if you drop it really hard or anything, it has to be hung back up so that it will work. What a PITA. Also you never know you missed calls b.c the phone wont work. Other than that tho it does get good reception for the cheapest phone at radio shack.
But why? with the gsr cams theres not really a point to rev that. Just build up the bottom end. Frankenstein the engine. reinforce the valvetrain and boost the hell out of it


