I was just woundering how much nos can a stock b18c1 take and how reliable it would be. Im running a 80 shot, single fogger, wet system right now and have seen guys do 125 direct port nitrous, but I dont know how long there motor has last.

The second question I have is how strong is the 2.0L set up with golden eagle sleeves, je pistons 11.5/1 compression with eagle rods.???? What is the limits I would be able to push out with that block? I plan on having good ALL MOTOR power on the streets and maybe 300hp to the wheel on NOS.

 

i had a 120 hp shot of direct port nos and all i had was a set of 9:1 pistons

 

how long did you run that set up for and how well did it work for you?

 

Just get two of the big bottles

I woudn't run 75+ without atleast pistons....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quikB18B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I woudn't run 75+ without atleast pistons.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree. I built my block to handle 125 shot dry with SRP pistons and Eagle rods. Just waiting on tuning Dec 20.

 

get a progressive nitrous controller..it'll make it safer.

 

don't do the 125 dp unless you've got a back-up engine.
nitrous is so fun and so addicting......

 

What is the most nos any one ever pushed on there motor. built or stock?

 

We are planning on running a 100shot direct port along with 28psi. Just to see if the engine can handle it. We just need a clutch since the Clutch Masters pressure plate shattered the other day at the track. We are aiming for 700whp. I know it is a little crazy for a street car, but my friend is a little crazy.

But I have seen 150hp direct port on a B18C

 

150 shot direct port dry, Stock block B18C1. I have a freind who ran 300 shot dry direct port on a B18B one time. Bent some valves, he ran the 150 dry kit first. If you are building a nitrous block dont use domed pistons. Stock blocks will take alot if you tune it right.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hbgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">150 shot direct port dry, Stock block B18C1. I have a freind who ran 300 shot dry direct port on a B18B one time. Bent some valves, he ran the 150 dry kit first. If you are building a nitrous block dont use domed pistons. Stock blocks will take alot if you tune it right.</TD></TR></TABLE>

a 150 DRY shot??? that would blow the motor the first time he sprayed.
i know a few people that have ran 125 shot on a gsr stack. they used a plate kit though.
i plan to run a 100 shot on my accord, i wanna see how long itll hold and i need an excuse to rebuild or swap
as long as the fuel is there you can run a 125 shot. just dont expect the motor to last forever.

 

the general rule, i've always heard not to run more than 1/2 what your engine produces without n2o. at least, if you want to do this all the time without any major worries. i recall reading about someone that ran a 125 all summer into his 00 golf (vr6) that only had a decent intake and exhaust, no problems after or during; beyond that, it was a daily driver

 

though the plate kit is a wet shot it "hits" harder than the normal wet nozzles = more stress on motor.. past summer ran 75 dry on d16 ran fine and 60 dry on gsr hatch and it loved it(consistent 12.5's@110), never took plate kit to track before uninstalling..it is for sale if anyone reading is intersted hit me up(75-200 shot)- looking for $300 new condition

 

JRSC@10psi w/ 150 shot dry on c16. pistons, rods, blockguard

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by llewsirc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

a 150 DRY shot??? that would blow the motor the first time he sprayed.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Another poor fellow who has been corrupted by Honda-Tech myths. With the right fuel upgrades DRY nitrous can be more tunable and safer at large shots than a wet kit. Take a look at my buddy Craig's setup in the post right above this one. 150 shot dry.

 

thanks this was alot of help. I plan on building a sleeved 2.0L with 11.8 CR, and run at least 150-200 shot of nos. I would all so have forged rods to.

 

Why did that car only make 250 on a 150 shot with a charger? That is confusing me. My setup was very simple, 310 injectors, direct port (dont try it single nozzle) MSD digital 6 to reatard timing only on the bottle, and Champion ag6933 (cant remember the number) cold plugs. Cams and stock bottom end it made 300@the wheels untuned. The LS made two passes on the dry 300 shot, bent some valves, but coasted to a 12..8 at 90mph from half track. Stock blocks can take alot if there is enough fuel. I dont know why people are so afraid of nitrous.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Another poor fellow who has been corrupted by Honda-Tech myths. With the right fuel upgrades DRY nitrous can be more tunable and safer at large shots than a wet kit. Take a look at my buddy Craig's setup in the post right above this one. 150 shot dry.</TD></TR></TABLE>

read his post.. <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">150 shot direct port dry, Stock block B18C1</TD></TR></TABLE>

a dry kit works by the n2o breaking down and the map sensor seeing more oxygen right? thereby telling the ecu to give more fuel.. in turn.. more air=more =fuel=bigger boom=more power.

if you put a 150 shot DRY direct port, what is telling the ecu to add more fuel?
i never said that you cant run a 150 dry shot, i dont know of a way to run any dry kit DP. do you?
not trying to be a dick. im not one to get honda-tech'd into any myths. i am no pro, but i dont open my mouth unless i know what im talking about.
and if im wrong. im sorry
thank you, have a nice thanksgiving.
kelly

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by llewsirc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

read his post..
</TD></TR></TABLE>

First of all, that wasn't Craigs post. This was.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GITWIDIT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">JRSC@10psi w/ 150 shot dry on c16. pistons, rods, blockguard
</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by llewsirc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
a dry kit works by the n2o breaking down and the map sensor seeing more oxygen right? thereby telling the ecu to give more fuel.. in turn.. more air=more =fuel=bigger boom=more power.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is not how a dry kit works. A dry kit adds more fuel by increasing fuel pressure. It does this by bleeding off nitrous through a "fuel metering" jet to the fuel pressure regulator. The additional pressure put on the diaphram by the nitrous causes the fuel pressure regulator to increase the fuel pressure. By changing the fuel metering jets out you can adjust how much additional fuel pressure you need.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by llewsirc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if you put a 150 shot DRY direct port, what is telling the ecu to add more fuel?
i never said that you cant run a 150 dry shot, i dont know of a way to run any dry kit DP. do you?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes I do.




<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by llewsirc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
im not one to get honda-tech'd into any myths. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well you did on this one.

I'm not trying to be a dick either, but you've been misinformed about alot of things and that happens alot on the HT bandwagons, especially about dry nitrous kits and the potential of D series engines (which are just now starting to get more noticed around here.) Take this as a good lesson on dry nitrous kits.

Happy Holidays.
Ryan

 

on a DP dry setup, how do you get the extra fuel in the motor? im curious. i have a dry kit but want to go DP. i thought i have to change to a wet kit. how would i do it with a dry kit?

and i a fully aware of d series power. i have a motor being built at speed image, in denver as we type.
also no offense to you or your friend, but how did he only make 250 hp with a 10psi pulley and a 150 shot?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by llewsirc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">on a DP dry setup, how do you get the extra fuel in the motor? im curious. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The guy just answered your question in the post right above yours. It works kinda like an FMU setup with a turbo. It raises your fuel pressure when you hit the n2o.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by llewsirc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">on a DP dry setup, how do you get the extra fuel in the motor? im curious. i have a dry kit but want to go DP. i thought i have to change to a wet kit. how would i do it with a dry kit?

and i a fully aware of d series power. i have a motor being built at speed image, in denver as we type.
also no offense to you or your friend, but how did he only make 250 hp with a 10psi pulley and a 150 shot? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Go back to my other post and read where I explained how a dry kit works.

GITWIDIT made 251 WHP on a Mustang dyno. Mustang dyno numbers are usually about 15% lower than your regular dynojet. Figure closer to 290WHP and also I don't think he dynoed it with the 150 shot. I think it was 100 or 120.

To convert your dry kit to a direct port all you would need is what you see in the picture and 4 jettings. I hear it is much harder to tune with a direct port dry. I personally wouldn't bother, a single injector is perfectly fine when placed more than 12" from the throttle body.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by llewsirc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a dry kit works by the n2o breaking down and the map sensor seeing more oxygen right? thereby telling the ecu to give more fuel.. in turn.. more air=more =fuel=bigger boom=more power.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The map sensor doesn't read oxygen content, it reads pressure.

 

make sure you tune it! i have the gsr plate kit on mine running 75 shots and blew the headgasket I was running on stock timing for the longest then got the MSD digital retard and ran 13.5@ 106mph and melted a plug .

PS: The kit is gonna be for sale soon as i take it out, only emptied 2 bottles with the kit. Will post in classifieds once its ready to be sold.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by llewsirc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">.
also no offense to you or your friend, but how did he only make 250 hp with a 10psi pulley and a 150 shot? </TD></TR></TABLE>

We originally tuned it with a .052 NOS brand jet (approx 100shot) dry setup on 93 octane extremely conservative on a mustang dyno. That's the #'s in my sig. We never sprayed the 150 shot on the dyno. We did it for fun at the end of the race season this year. Made six passes that day at the track, wanted to see how much I could spray through the charger (to prove some other myths wrong). This is in my 2,600lb coupe hittin the trap at 113mph all day.

Hondata nitrous controls would work great if you want to do a direct port dry. It will add aditional fuel through your injectors, pull timing, and give you all sorts of window switches to play with. Or just keep it simple like I did and use a single nozzle.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by llewsirc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and i a fully aware of d series power </TD></TR></TABLE>

hehehe............... sohc ownz