After finding out from a machinist that the block doesn't need sleeved (the damage is at the bottom 1/2" of the liners), I'm ready to buy new rod and main bearing for the engine that snapped 2 rods.

Yes I said 2, and the thing would still run! 2 out of 4 cylinders doesn't give much power though.

Question is:
Can I just grind the #2 and #3 rod journals for OS rod bearings, or do all 4 have to be done?

Also, never bought bearings for an H-series before. Do I speccify the bearing color combo AND .010 or .020 at the parts counter?

 

forgot about option 2:

I have a good, used F22A1 crankshaft. It's from a 93 Prelude S that snapped a timing belt. Would it be better to use this one, or refinish the old H23 one?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nuc79 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">forgot about option 2:

I have a good, used F22A1 crankshaft. It's from a 93 Prelude S that snapped a timing belt. Would it be better to use this one, or refinish the old H23 one?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i cant answer that question, but i have 5 h23 pistons and rods sitting im my garage if you need a few

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nuc79 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">forgot about option 2:

I have a good, used F22A1 crankshaft. It's from a 93 Prelude S that snapped a timing belt. Would it be better to use this one, or refinish the old H23 one?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Use the F22 crank. The f22 and H23 cranks are the same.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Use the F22 crank. The f22 and H23 cranks are the same.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the advice. I was hoping someone would say that. The F22 that the crank is in only has 120k and wasn't run hard, so the crank should be in good shape. It was the broken timing belt that did in the engine. Makes it better that the engine was free


Modified by nuc79 at 9:29 PM 11/24/2003

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nuc79 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Make it better that the engine was free </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's AWESOME!!! Now you can buy CHK4TIX's rods!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That's AWESOME!!! Now you can buy CHK4TIX's rods!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>


haha, well, I would, except I already had bought a spare set of rods and pistons last year for $50, plus the #1 and #4 cyl. should have good rods and pistons, since the engine was last running on ONLY those 2 cylinders.
It had a VERY rough idle.

I guess now it's just a matter of writing down the markings on the H23 block and the F22 crank, and going to the parts counter to order the right color/size bearings.

Oh yeah, and I guess I'll need Plastiguage too to measure bearing oil clearances....

 

i would just order some ACL bearings, it would be alot cheaper.

You can always just buy a complete h22 vtec longblock for around 1000 bucks which has alot less miles + more hp or buy a h23 longblock for a little less.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by irev210 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would just order some ACL bearings, it would be alot cheaper.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Where can those be purchased from??

 

go with honda bearings....dude pay a little more. I've being using oem parts on the engines I put together and had no problems. just my 2 cents.