As topic states, gunk, pennzoil? Can anybody help me?

 

Regualr oil changes!- If you have sludge build up already- you might as well start saving your money for a rebuild cuz it's gonna have to come down to get it all out. The bad thing about engine flushes is they usally make a small leak bigger, new leaks appear, and creates new trouble.

 

if you really must. try some risoline or seafoam. otherwise if it isnt too bad just change the oil earlier.

 

b&g engine purge is the best I've ever used.
It's expensive though.

15 for the flush
+5 quarts of oil 5 bucks
+ filter 3 bucks

then 5 quarts of your regular oil and filter.

but it does the job.

 

i've been told that those flushes and most additives tear through seals! i dont think once or twice would kill the car tho.

 

i use 1 quart of ATF. Drive around for a couple of hours. Then change your oil. The detergents in the ATF do wonders.

 

switch to synthetic, those have a seriously high detergent capacity, and in 2 changes will remove varish abd other crud build up. THis subject has been gone over on a Mercedes board I belong to, and with diesels it really makes a difference. Besides the synthetic being superiour. Oil I mean

 

I works wonders on Mercedes Diesel engines with 300,000 miles of use with regular oil, and these motors run 500,000 miles all the time with proper maintenance without a rebuild. It cleans them out why won't it work for a honda. Problem is a quick clean may lossen crud that drops later and plugs screen, not a good thing.

 

ive heard, and now, do alittle more research, and dont' try it, blow your **** up, and come kick my ***.. haha, but some of the old tymers at work have put in diesel fuel in, fired it up, and ran it for about 30 seconds.. then drained it.. ive heard it works wonders..

 

http://www.probetalk.com/forum...=4052

i know its not honda and i havent done it yet but many others have and i plan to do it when i have time

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by someguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Kerosene engine flush...Step by step...

1. Drain oil except one quart, or you can drain all the oil and add one quart of new oil. (starting with a NEW oil filter is recomended).
2. Add the remainder as kerosene, approx. 3 quarts.
3. Start the engine. DO NOT REV THE ENGINE
4. let it run until warm, not HOT, just warm. About 5-10 mins.
5. Drain the entire contents.
6. Add one quart oil, 3 quarts kerosene.
7. Run the engine again until slightly warmer. DO NOT REV THE ENGINE
8. Drain the entire system.
9. You can pour Kerosene into the NON-running engine as it drains out untill it comes out clear.
10. Pour about one quart of oil and let it run out of the oil pan.
11. Add your favorite oil/oil filter.(replace oil pan plug...:razz
12. Run engine until its at operating tempature. Check to make sure it is running ok.
13. Optional...You can drain the system one last time and add new oil filter and oil...

This does a great job...

The residue that comes out should be quite black and a thin liquid...Chunks or sludge should be disolved...

Note:

those who use Quaker State oil may experiance chunks and or sludge when draining the system through out the procedure...This is typical of Quaker State oils...

Disclaimer:

I am not responsible for your intelligence, or lack there of.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

thanks, i forgot most people might not be able to see it.

im wondering the last post on this thread below, can you really do this?

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=264266

 

I would never do that to my engine. Kerosene does not have the lubricitiy properties or the viscosity needed to prevent metal on metal contact.