well i just got back from a junkyard and asked a dude about a turbo off the Eclipse..he say he'll sell everything that comes wit the turbo for $300 ...i was thinking its a good deal???what u think??? also would it be worth it??? well if i do get this turbo...its going on a d16y7..i have an HF manifold already and might be using that...but what i want to know is that when i do go get this turbo from the car....what are all the things i need????plz list them for me... thanks...

 

well what exaclty is he giving you?

Obviously the turbo, but does it come with bov, manifold.... also might wanna ask about getting the injectors out of it. Sounds like a good deal though. You know how many miles on the turbo or are you going to rebuild?

 

the only thing you would want from the eclipse is the turbo itself, the bov, and the injectors. you wouldn't beable to use the charge pipes, or the manifold

 

yeah..from what i heard...the guy said what ever that would make the turbo work...i told him i wanted injectors and he say that it was fine.....but...what would i need to actually make this run in my car?? i know i'll need some custom piping...and other things...thats y i wanted a list of things that i would need from the eclipse and the things i would need to get to make this work...

 

Manifold, DP, intercooler, etc...

The parts they listed are the only ones that will work for your application. You might be able to get the IC to work.

-Dustin

 

Turbo (of course)
Down Pipe and O2 housing (need if doing a hf manifold)
Intercooler (if its included mos def go ahead and get it)
Injectors (would be nice)
You shouldnt need the exhaust manifold however?

If you get all this for $300 your doing real good.

 

well...sounds good!!! i still need to check the mileage on the turbo...! how would you know if its still good or not??

also, i think i have a choice to pick between an Eclipse GXS and a Saab...which would be better???or just all the same???

 

ask if you can "browse" the turbos to see which ones have shaft play or bent fins or whatever.

Depending on teh year the Saab IC may or may not be good. Saab 900s all have intercoolers you can work with pretty well. The 9000s have a very thin FMIC sanwiched between the radiator and the AC rad. no good. bad shape.

also, the turbo on the saab might be a T25 or T3. The T3 might be a little too big. they both have the same compressor housing and wheel trim IIRC, but the T3s exhaust housing is a little large for a 1.6L. DSM will have a T25 or a 14b, which are fairly comparable.

definitely get teh injectors. if you don't you'll need some down the line.

definitely get the downpipe. even if just for the flange and teh first few inches of pipe. attaching piping to the flange is infinitely easier than fabricating a new flange. O2 housing too, maybe? depending on what manifold you will use.

I suggest getting your own IC tubing bent. I've tried frankensteining IC plumbing a few times, and it's a bitch. a very innefficient bitch. and this was on a Subaru, where the turbo is like a foot away from the IC, and the IC is basically ON the TB (TMIC). and it was such a pain. I can't imagine trying to hook up a FMIC with junkyard plumbing. not trying to discourage or anything. just sharing experience.

but the rest of it sounds good.

 

my friend is selling a turbo for d series
its a HF manifold
a TD05 turbo and a dowpipe already made and welded for a D series
no shaft play and he will sell it for 400

 

I got a low mileage 94 Eclipse turbo, wastegate, downpipe and injectors for $125 from the local pick and pull.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sxecustoms &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Turbo (of course)
Down Pipe and O2 housing (need if doing a hf manifold)
Intercooler (if its included mos def go ahead and get it)
Injectors (would be nice)
You shouldnt need the exhaust manifold however?

If you get all this for $300 your doing real good. </TD></TR></TABLE>

alright..if i do get all these parts...how much more do i need..?? and how much would you think it'll run me?

 

You'll need (fresh in my head 'cause I just did one of these the other night)
Manifold
Turbo
Downpipe
Wastegate (actuator, etc)
Charge pipes (I used radiator hoses from Advance Auto parts, and they sell mandrel bends also- just look in the Dynamax book and order them by part number)
Intercooler
BOV
Oil lines (1/8 NPT male x female x female Tee, 1/8 NPT x 1/4 barb, ~3ft of 1/4" fuel line, some way of fitting it into the turbo inlet; I used 1/4" copper line and half of a brass union, connected this to the 1/4" fuel line with a clamp)
some way of hooking up your oil return from the turbo to the oil pan (I used a section of 5/8" pre-bent heater hose from Adv Auto and a 5/8" barb nipple brazed to the oil pan)
FMU or V-AFC hack to control fuel
and uh, yeah. I think that's it. IM me if you want pictures

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ED3-D15T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You'll need (fresh in my head 'cause I just did one of these the other night)
Manifold
Turbo
Downpipe
Wastegate (actuator, etc)
Charge pipes (I used radiator hoses from Advance Auto parts, and they sell mandrel bends also- just look in the Dynamax book and order them by part number)
Intercooler
BOV
Oil lines (1/8 NPT male x female x female Tee, 1/8 NPT x 1/4 barb, ~3ft of 1/4" fuel line, some way of fitting it into the turbo inlet; I used 1/4" copper line and half of a brass union, connected this to the 1/4" fuel line with a clamp)
some way of hooking up your oil return from the turbo to the oil pan (I used a section of 5/8" pre-bent heater hose from Adv Auto and a 5/8" barb nipple brazed to the oil pan)
FMU or V-AFC hack to control fuel
and uh, yeah. I think that's it. IM me if you want pictures </TD></TR></TABLE>

All correct for the most part. Feel free to drop me an IM @ SXE4LIFE01 if you have any more questions. I have plenty of pics also.

 

Buying a junkyard turbo kit is questionable. But, it's ok as long as you check the turbo before you buy it. If you look inside the turbo housing, you can see how the car ran with it,whether it ran lean or rich, or if it has any rust or signs of 'caking'

 

there are alot of little thing u need also, like fmu which is 150.00 and missing link 50.00 , a af ratio and boost gauge would be nice and a pod to put them on thats another 150.00 , the dp itself is not fun to do bc of the cross member. u also need a boost controller bc the turbo is set at 10lbs, not good on a stock honda motor.turbo lag sucks ! u have to weld the bov on the custom pipe, which it is hard to weld aluminum, and if u good clamps and hoses that stuff add up quickly. just telling u from experice , overall my project was good and i learned alot and took alot of pride in it bc i made my on turbo kit. But my advice is what ever ur price u think it gonna cost u , plan on it costing a little more.

 

T25 off eclipse-100 bucks
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...33742

eclipse bov-55 bucks
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...42604

dsm intercooler(same as eclipse)-37 bucks with 1 day left, so lets say 60 -80 bucks
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...46096

the injectors is really the clincher i think, because you would be amazed how many injectors there are at the yard that are 440cc's, turbo supras, dsm's, turbo eclpises.
for ex i got 6 of em off a turbo supra for about 3 bucks per injector, thats 18 bucks.


lets just say you get hte injectors for 30 bucks.
that totals about 265.

i say if your lazy and dont wana look around for the parts you could buy this and not worry too much about it, everything could be made to work on your setup. If you wana be resourceful tho im sure you could piece together a nicer setup for close to the same amount. but like everyone said, what kills you when putting a turbo kit together is all the small stuff you never think about.

ps: if you do buy the kit off him make sure you get the oil feed/drain and coolant feed/drain lines.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jspek29 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there are alot of little thing u need also, like fmu which is 150.00 and missing link 50.00 , a af ratio and boost gauge would be nice and a pod to put them on thats another 150.00 , the dp itself is not fun to do bc of the cross member. u also need a boost controller bc the turbo is set at 10lbs, not good on a stock honda motor.turbo lag sucks ! u have to weld the bov on the custom pipe, which it is hard to weld aluminum, and if u good clamps and hoses that stuff add up quickly. just telling u from experice , overall my project was good and i learned alot and took alot of pride in it bc i made my on turbo kit. But my advice is what ever ur price u think it gonna cost u , plan on it costing a little more.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just some additions and more info. Since he is looking at a JY turbo kit, he is looking for cheap.

Missing link? I think not! Use a series of check valves. $ 10

Boost and A/F for $150? Goddamn thats expensive. If you go autometer, the boost gauge is around 40, and so is the a/f. Add $25 more for the pillar... thats what, $105?? Go with the sunpro boost for $15, and you save even more.

Boost controller? If its set at 10psi, a boost controller is ONLY going to make it worse. You cant make the boost go any lower that what the wastegate will allow. If its REALLY set at 10psi, bend the bracket on the actuator... that should lower it a bit.

 

afc hack will be more reliable and you could hook it up to use for a boost gauge too, also could be used as a af gauge using the blue wire mod.

The t25's for hte most part are all internal wastegated, you can simply lower the boost on em, if not you can make a makeshift ball and spring valve relief for under 15 bucks from home depot.