I have been getting a CEL code 16 (fuel injector) intermittently <U>ONLY</U> when I am pushing the engine hard, and this has been happening for about 2 months now(after reseting the ecu the code is gone and i can resume driving). Normal daily driving doesn't trigger this code. Plus i never get the code while redlining the engine through the first 2 gears, but right when i get to around 7400-8000 in third gear i will get the code and feel as though i just hit the rev limiter(causing the ecu to go into limp-home-mode). The wierdest part of this is that somedays i can rip the engine through all the gears without gettting the code, but the next day i will get on it in third gear and sure enough i get the code 16 around the mentioned rpm range(7400-8000) .

Please help HT masters.

 

you fuel injectors obviously aren't in good shape if thats the code you're jumping

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integraL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you fuel injectors obviously aren't in good shape if thats the code you're jumping</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its not the injectors i've tried multiple sets of working injectors . I believe its the wiring, but i'm looking for other possiblitilies. Thanks for the replie though integraL.

 

How's your fuel filter? Have you measured fuel pressure during your WOT runs to redline?

Got a turbo like your name says? 1st & 2nd gear runs to redline go quicker, so maybe the turbo doesn't have enough time to build as much boost as it does in higher gears. That means in higher gears the FPR wants higher pressure than it does in 1st & 2nd. If it can't get the pressure, the only way the ECU knows about it is because it needs a longer injector pulse width to keep the O2 sensor happy. So it 'blames' the injectors.

 

I thrw this code upon startup after my turbo install, first we though it was resistor box, but we removed it, then we checked injectors they were all wired correct order. So we completely rewired the injector wires. Nothing still had CEL, so we said bingo Ecu, thinking this was the problem nope.

Scratched out heads for a few minutes and realized we had just installed the skunk 2 harness for obd1 conversion, this was our culprit. It has one bad wire and injector #3 was not firing.

Check your wiring though, its proabably the problem. Did you mess or rewire something couple months ago?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How's your fuel filter? Have you measured fuel pressure during your WOT runs to redline?

Got a turbo like your name says? 1st & 2nd gear runs to redline go quicker, so maybe the turbo doesn't have enough time to build as much boost as it does in higher gears. That means in higher gears the FPR wants higher pressure than it does in 1st & 2nd. If it can't get the pressure, the only way the ECU knows about it is because it needs a longer injector pulse width to keep the O2 sensor happy. So it 'blames' the injectors.
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No unfortunately the car use to have a b20vtec turbo'ed and the motor blew and the turbo was sold, so the current set up is just a b16a. What could be causing this code 16. Would a malfunctioning O2 heater have anything to do with it??? I'm getting sick of this problem!!

P.S.- is my motor at risk of damage with getting this code??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quikB18B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">. Did you mess or rewire something couple months ago?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah kinda of, when i put on the ITR manifold some wiring was pushed aside. Also because of the prior owner of the car the wiring is pretty messy(i've cleaned most of it up myself). My injectors are stock obd-0 peak and hold (2-3 ohms), but i have gray injector plugs(i don't know how that works???), with no resistor box(i have the power junction harness hooked up), running a P30 ecu. Could it be I just have the wrong injectors and should be running saturated injectors??? I really need help with this because my mechanice sucks with wiring. Thanks for the replies so far!!

 

O2 heater should show up as a 41, because the ECU will 'know' that the heater circuit isn't working. Besides the heater only runs during the first couple minutes anyway.

Check your fuel pressure anyway, even without a turbo, just to rule that out. You want to see if the pressure drops under the conditions you're talking about. WOT & high rpm are when the engine needs the most fuel, and also when the pressure needs to be highest.

Risk of damage? I don't think we can answer that until we know WHY it's coming on... If it's fuel delivery I suppose WOT @ redline is the one place where you DON'T want to be running lean.

 

Try putting in some saturated plugs. Low impedance peak and holds need the resitor box. Don't know for sure if thats your direct problem, but swithc them out see whta happens. If not I would rewire, strip your wires look for any problem areas.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">O2 heater should show up as a 41, because the ECU will 'know' that the heater circuit isn't working. Besides the heater only runs during the first couple minutes anyway.

Check your fuel pressure anyway, even without a turbo, just to rule that out. You want to see if the pressure drops under the conditions you're talking about. WOT & high rpm are when the engine needs the most fuel, and also when the pressure needs to be highest.

Risk of damage? I don't think we can answer that until we know WHY it's coming on... If it's fuel delivery I suppose WOT @ redline is the one place where you DON'T want to be running lean.
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I actually do have a code 41 just checked , so could that be cause the code 16 too?? i wouldn't think so.

I don't seem to lean out at all on my air/fuel gauge, but who knows how reliable that is. Also i recently swapped in a GS-R fuel rail so the FPR would be all the way to the right, out of the way of the IAT sensor plug, because i recently installed an ITR i/m. Will the 1st gen B16 FPR line up correctly with a '95 GSR fuel rail?? Maybe thats the problem. This problem didn't come till after the I/M and fuel rail swap. Thanks for all the help and listening to me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quikB18B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try putting in some saturated plugs. Low impedance peak and holds need the resitor box. Don't know for sure if thats your direct problem, but swithc them out see whta happens. If not I would rewire, strip your wires look for any problem areas. </TD></TR></TABLE>

would running peak and hold without a resistor box fry my ecu(which is looking for a saturated injector signal?? So far its been about a year and a half with this set up no problems until my i/m and fuel rail swap like state in the thread above.

 

Not sure, but if you ran like that for 2 years with no probs then i woudlnt say thast the problem here. You must have messed with something during the manifold install, go back and check all your wiring. It has to have happened then, just gotta play detective and eliminate things to find the problem.

 

Thanks for all the help quickB18B, i will be checking all the wiring today. And hopefully it fixs this problem.

P.S.- would a main relay or ignition switch gone bad aid to this problem??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboxsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

P.S.- would a main relay or ignition switch gone bad aid to this problem??
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Bump the main relay and ignition switch question. I suspect one of these going bad because when starting car its delayed for like 5 seconds with nothing, not a noise, then it just turns right over.

 

In that case I'll vote for ignition switch, because the main relay isn't involved in the starter circuit.

 

Sorry to bump an ooolld thread but did you ever fix your problem?

I'm getting this SAME exact problem. Only occurs at WOT near redline. Happens randomly too. No idea what it is and I've just been searching around for the past hour.

 

Are you guys using any type of OBD2-OBD1 conversion harnesses?

 

Nope.

 

Same **** happens to me but it was my injector wiring