ok ill make this short and to the point since no one responded. it must have been too long last time, if you wanted to read a book youd go to barnes and nobel

bought lude... has rebuilt head... horrible ticking/grinding sound... took off valve cover... chunk of cylinder 1 left intake cam lobe missing... change cam out... still ticking... do valve adjustment... different ticking/knocking... frusterated ... find out tensioner is fubar...

so my question is how hard is it to get at the front end of the motot to change the tensioner? is it possible without removing the motor mount like for a timing belt install? i searched and all i can find is stuff about the auto. to manual conversion. installing the actual tensioner shouldnt be hard for me to do, its finding the easiest way to get to it that im wondering. if there is a how-to anywhere that would be great.


Modified by luckys lude at 3:11 AM 11/18/2003

 

heres a pic of the cam that i took out. what could cause this to happen??

 

I can't read what you're trying to do. But if you're trying to change the tensioner you don't need to remove the engine.

With the engine, I don't see any rocker arms... I'm not sure what you're trying to point out.

 

Don't know about yours but H22 you do have to remove the driver side engine mount to let that side of the engine sag so you can get to every thing from the fenderwell with your wheel removed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TimeRacer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can't read what you're trying to do. But if you're trying to change the tensioner you don't need to remove the engine. </TD></TR></TABLE>

im just trying to find out what it takes to get to the tensioner, i know i dont have to take the engine out. i was wondering if i had to remove the motor mount on that side of the engine to get to it or if i could just pull the covers.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TimeRacer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With the engine, I don't see any rocker arms... I'm not sure what you're trying to point out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i just put the picture up to show what happened to the cam lobe... the chunk missing on the lobe on the bottom. i was just curious if anyone knew what could cause that to happen.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by biglew &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't know about yours but H22 you do have to remove the driver side engine mount to let that side of the engine sag so you can get to every thing from the fenderwell with your wheel removed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks, thats what i was starting to think from looking at it and some of the pictures i found about the auto to manual conversion. how hard is it to drop that side of the engine? i decided that i should definately change the timing belt while im in there so i know its all new, saves the cost and time to pull it all apart again later. is there a how-to about changing the t-belt somewhere.

 

Shouldn't be that hard to drop the side of that engine just support it with a jack on that side while removing the mount then lower the jack. I'm sure I don't have to tell you this but don't put the jack under the oil pan.

 

thanks a lot, im gonna try and take care of it my self instead of paying out the *** for it. i found a timing belt install how-to and it not as bad as it looked at first. now it just needs to stop raining so damn much.

 

Well if it's you first time then leave yourself the whole day. Also if you don't have the right tools then your gonna be hurtin bad it always looks simpler than it is.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by biglew &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well if it's you first time then leave yourself the whole day. </TD></TR></TABLE>

its my first time changing the timing belt on this car. i will probibly do it over the weekend so i have plenty of time. fortunatly i have a beater to drive so i can take my time on it and make sure its right.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by biglew &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also if you don't have the right tools then your gonna be hurtin bad it always looks simpler than it is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

luckly i have access to just about every tool imaginable. dont worry i dont think this is gonna be a breeze by far. i just think that its a lot easier to get at then i origionally thought. thanks again.

 

You DON'T need to move any side of engine down. Just remove left wheel, crank pulley, plastic covers and you are allmost done :-). I've done it several times....no pushing engine down.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by petrv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You DON'T need to move any side of engine down. Just remove left wheel, crank pulley, plastic covers and you are allmost done :-). I've done it several times....no pushing engine down.</TD></TR></TABLE>I don't know as much about the H23 but I'll tell you what, it was hard enought to get the lower belt cover off without releasing the driver side engine mount. I fail to see how you did this several times on an H22 engine in a Prelude without unbolting that driver side engine mount.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by biglew &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't know as much about the H23 but I'll tell you what, it was hard enought to get the lower belt cover off without releasing the driver side engine mount. I fail to see how you did this several times on an H22 engine in a Prelude without unbolting that driver side engine mount.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's a teaser, but once done, it's easy. Just time-consuming like someone mentioned.

 

I hope the poster has a helms manual...it has detailed info on how to align the belts, both timing and balancer. Change the water pump while you are in there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by satan_srv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I hope the poster has a helms manual...it has detailed info on how to align the belts, both timing and balancer. Change the water pump while you are in there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

we've got a winner here....

 

Yea, that rear balancer shaft pulley is a doozy!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by satan_srv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I hope the poster has a helms manual...it has detailed info on how to align the belts, both timing and balancer. Change the water pump while you are in there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i finally found info @ http://www.icelord.net/honda/repair
is there anything else i need to know. any tricks to make it go smoother. im gonna change the timing belt, tensioner, and water pump. anything else i should check while i have it unassembeled.

thanks a lot guys i really appreciate the help. im sure most of you guys can understand that being in college i need to save money whenever possible.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by luckys lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i finally found info @ http://www.icelord.net/honda/repair
is there anything else i need to know. any tricks to make it go smoother. im gonna change the timing belt, tensioner, and water pump. anything else i should check while i have it unassembeled.

thanks a lot guys i really appreciate the help. im sure most of you guys can understand that being in college i need to save money whenever possible.</TD></TR></TABLE>That website is no substitute for a helm manual. It's nice to have a drawn out diagram cause some of the crap your messin' with you won't even be able to see. Also do you have a tool to hold the crank pulley in place?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by biglew &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That website is no substitute for a helm manual. It's nice to have a drawn out diagram cause some of the crap your messin' with you won't even be able to see. Also do you have a tool to hold the crank pulley in place?</TD></TR></TABLE>

im gonna get one, and yes.

i need to change the ballance shaft belt too right? anything else?

also, whats the opinion on the lightened underdrive pullies good, bad, or waste of money. if there are worth it which are the best? unorthadox... aem... others. if there worth it i might as well do them now when everything is apart.

 

I've heard bad things about lightened crank pulleys weaing on the mains. As far as accesory pullies go only compaints I've heard was dimmer lights and the a/c doesn't work as well.

 

enough said. ill just be happy with my power steering belt off and leave it at that.