So I install a B18c5 in my 89 CRX. and the Suspension
I dont change my brake booster or master or proportioning valve.
we bled the brake system a few times but my pedal was right at the bottom but did stop the car but pedal very close to the floor.
That weekend
I go lapping for about 3 laps and then all of a sudden no brakes.
Pedal right to the ground and the car was not stopping.

now I know I need to run Motul 600 Brake fluid.

Because my CRX master cylinder has different lines than the "R" I couldn't use it.
SO what booster and master and proportioing valve should I change to ???

I figure 91 CRX Si prop valve seeing as the had rear discs stock.
but for booster and master???


Just FYI - Im running Stock "R" disics with EBC Reds

Please help

Thanx Guys

 

Stock R brake setup with CRX master cyl and prop valve - bad (probably the cause of your no pedal)

Use better fluid, and throw the EBC's away now.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and throw the EBC's away now.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why throw out the EBC's

 

Because they suck

 

You're lucky the pedal got soft and made you stop running before the pads fell apart. I got about 1/2 hour of track time at Pocono before a set of EBC reds fell apart. The pad fell off the backing plate in between corners, next corner I had no brakes and pumped about a dozen times to get the backing plate against the rotor and finally stopped. Of course I had been bouncing through the grass and crossed 3 service roads, getting air on the first one. Wrote off one bumper cover, rad support, header, and oilpan. DON'T USE EBC IF YOU LIKE YOUR CAR OR LIFE. Just my opinion.

The pad material that was left was so toasted that I could crumble it in my fingers. The other three pads separated as I removed them.

They did offer to send me new pads for free to try out a new compound. Given their lack of interest in covering the $1000 of damage and possibility of personal injury, I declined their offer.

Given the larger pistons on the R brakes, you need a master cylinder with a similar diameter to the R cylinder. I don't know what will bolt up, but hopefully someone here will.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Because they suck</TD></TR></TABLE>


rj i agree with you on that.....


call carbotec for brake pads that do their job!!!

 

If your pedal was right near the floor after the bleeding process, you have a hydraulic issue before the quality of the pads become an issue. I don't know anything about the R braking system but I did convert a disc/drum '89 CRX Si racecar to the '90-91 rear disc system and at first did not change to the larger bore master cylinder nor the change to the disc/disc prop valve. The pedal was long and there was too much front brake bias. After going to the larger bore CRX master cyl that the disc/disc cars had and their prop valve, the car was fine. I never changed the power booster.

If the R brakes have larger calipers that therefore require more fluid to be moved, go with the biggest normal master cylinder you can. I did the common Integra brake upgrade on my street CRX Si and use the master cylinder from the late '80s Prelude (don't recall the bore right now but it is the biggest readily available bolt-on Honda one that I could find).

After that hydraulic issue is dealt with, you can make your own decisions on the EBCs. I am in the minority here but I don't hate the EBC Greenstuffs that are on my car (second set) that have been fine for street and and a few lapping days. Probably won't get the EBCs next time but I'm not getting rid of them before they are gone (nor am I racing really hard on them either).

 

LEE,
You are correct in sayng it is a hydrolic issue.
But I thought someone here might know what master cylinder I can use so I dont interupt the lines coming to the master cylinder.

If anyone knows that would help thanx.

Late 80's prelude - Same lines ?

 

Talk to Miles from HADA, he has a very similar setup to yours, he can probably tell you what MC he has.

Tom

 

Yeah, sounds like hydraulic problem to me as well. If all was fine before the swap and now sucks afterward, obviously the new parts aren't playing well together. To test this, if you still have the original calipers, throw those back on to see how everything feels.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">EBC Reds</TD></TR></TABLE>

Umm...yikes!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by motore &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
But I thought someone here might know what master cylinder I can use so I dont interupt the lines coming to the master cylinder.

If anyone knows that would help thanx.
Late 80's prelude - Same lines ?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

The master cylinder from that Prelude is about 1 inch bore and is a direct bolt up to the CRX brake lines and booster studs. I think the disc/drum MC is 13/16ths and the disc/disc is 7/8ths or something like that. These numbers are just pulled off my head from memory but I can check my cars at home if you want but the Prelude is two steps up from the disc/drum car. Either way, these parts will work fine with your stock brake lines and mountings

 

What I want to know is

What year prelude?

So Ill just change MC to Prelude and prop valve to 91 CRX (original disc)

Good ?

 

I'm home now and looked at the two cars and my memory was off by 1/16th.

CRX Si disc/drum = 13/16ths
CRX Si disc/disc = 7/8ths
'89 or so Prelude = 15/16ths

The numbers are cast into the non-brake line side of the master cylinders, otherwise they are visually identical so the fittings all line up. The larger bore Prelude master cylinder requires a larger diameter plastic fluid reservoir cup. I got the cup from a junk yard and just went to AutoZone asking for an '89 Prelude master cylinder and gave them an old CRX one as a core. I think you can likely use the smaller CRX cup but the larger Prelude cup gives you a bit of extra fluid especially when bleeding. The extra 1/8th inch bore makes it flow a lot more fluid when bleeding and mostly you'll notice then that the pedal height comes up quite a bit.

 

The 1/8" larger diameter piston will move about 1/3 more fluid for a given stroke. That will make a huge difference.

 

So something like an 89 Prelude SR MC would work aginst the lines and the bolts to my original brake booster. Correct ?

Just making sure

Thanx a bunch Lee.

 

You can use a 1989 accord LXi master cylinder. It is the same as the Prelude unit they are refering to.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by motore &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So something like an 89 Prelude SR MC would work aginst the lines and the bolts to my original brake booster. Correct ?

Just making sure
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup. Go for it.

 

In Toronto you can buy that 89 prelude MC from UAP its about $112 with exchange ..it comes with a the resovior cup.

 

Just adding that the MC from the 90-91 Civic EX (4Dr sedan) can be used also. It is 15/16" and bolts right in without having to bend any hardlines. Just another alternative if you can't find the Prelude or Accord parts.