Okay doing lsvtec right now 97 gsr head and 01 Ls block. People said I should put in oil squirters has it been done and how do you go about doing it. The parts I'm getting are 94-01 gsr oil pan, gsr girdle, gsr windage tray, gsr oil squirters.

Also how important is it to have the squirters in? Sorry posted this in the integra forum but also seeing if you all motor guys might know.

 

ever considered the golden eagle vtec conversion kit?

 

GE has nothing to do with this...*sigh*

but, you dont' need oil squirters if you go with forged pistons.
but if you go CTR...ITR...they're cool

 

I think it's because the VTEC engines need them because of the high rpms, and if you have a non VTEC block with a VTEC head, it needs the extra oil.

 

wrong

the reason beind oil squirters it to cool the piston when it's under combustion temps.

 

its for cooling

Get some forged pistons and dont worry about it.

Edit:

If im not mistaken to install the girdle onto the ls block some holes for a dowl pin should be drilled to prevent movement.

 

wait till the RLZ girdle is out...then get it

 

i don't recall ever hearing that forged pistons will run any cooler than cast pistons(??)... although the expansion rates are different.

with a cooler piston, you should get cooler rings, as well as less tendancy towards detonation in a performance motor... how hard are you gonna push it? how long do you want it to last?

cost vs. benefit.

 

is their girdle coming out soon

 

I have heard that oil squiters in a bseries canbe done...and i have seen an ls that had a "vein" that could possibly move oil... but this would be complicated and not to sure how well this would work. Wish we could just remove some bolts and add them like in the h23a...all you have to do is buy the squiters parts... ($$$) but an option...

 

putting them oil squirters on your b18b is not so easy,nor cheap y not spend the money on some forged pistons srp pisons can he had for pretty cheap, and can handle way more abuse than any b series piston with oil squirters.

 

I'm pretty sure its not that hard, requires you to make dowel pin holes, or move them, and then slap it on with a few little mods to the actual squrters to clear.... i read the install somewhere..

 

yeah you have to drill out a hole, tap the hole and add the squiters/hollow bolt in the corners of the bottom of the cylinders you have to alter them untill they fit cause th crank/piston may hit it (the problem we had in our h23a/vtec build)

 

where did u read

 

the vtec oil squirters are not really needed. They do offer some cooling but not as much as people assume. Heat from the piston is channel thru to the rings and into the cylinder wall to be cooled. Some of that heat is drawn into the oil being shot at the bottom of the piston and returning into the oil system. i would advise u to just talk to some one who has build an all motor ls/vtec. Preferably one that has lasted more than a year. Ask some questions and always remember build for reliability and tune for power

 

where did u see the info on tapping the vein for oil squirters id really like to know how this is done i know there are clearance issues with the crank they might not be as needed as everyone thinks but the cooler the pistons are the better id just like to stick to oem ctrs thanks for any help

 

I don't have them in my B20vtec.
I'm not saying don't use them, i'm just saying I've got 25,000 miles on it and all is well.

 

Yea I'm building a LS/VTEC and need to know what to tell the machine shop so we can get it installed. I also have a GSR Bridge, and need to know if I install it will I need to change the oil pickup or what?

 

talked to the machine shop today and they said they could get the squirters to work but the vein or galley is so shallow that it might restrict more passing through than being the worth of it squirting through the squirter doing prodrive oil gear instead we will see how long it lasts

 

well if the bolt gets in the way can't we just cut some of the bottom bolt off? can't remember what the inside of my oil squirters bolt looks like but if we shorten it then that should help flow?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by freezerburnv2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea I'm building a LS/VTEC and need to know what to tell the machine shop so we can get it installed. I also have a GSR Bridge, and need to know if I install it will I need to change the oil pickup or what?</TD></TR></TABLE>

need gsr oil pick up and gsr oil pan

 

ive herd that u can but its a pretty penny , also if u just put them in urself the crank will smack them im pretty sure

 

I have a b20 block, and i added oil squriters to it even though i'm running forged wiesco pistons....

There are a number of factors to consider - more than just cooling....
In all vtec motors you will find oil squirters. In all vtec motors you will also find SOLID rods. LS/B20 rods are not solid. they have a little oil gallery in the center that allows oil to be shaved off the crank and travel up to lube the wrist pin.
All aftermarket rods i've seen for the LS don't have the oil gallery in the center of the rod, they are all solid. Solid rods are great for strength, but if you run aftermarket rods you won't have sufficient lubing of the wrist pin, regardless of cast or forged pistons. this becomes evident at high rpm and creates heat at the wrist pin, and in some extreme cases can cause the wristpin, or small end of the rod to fail (i've seen it happen).

Coles notes: Basically if you run a solid rod (Vtec rods, or aftermarket), it is a good idea to be lubing that wrist pin if the motor's gonna see lots of high rpm use.