The new was 66$ from "highway robberyville" aka: Honda.

I pulled the old one apart just to look at the diodes and they look as if they could cause some fuel supply issues.

My car would die sporatically.. then I realized that it only died when I had the heater blasting on my feet (where the relay is) as it got hot enough my motor died. Then it fired back up. I of course checked my grounds but they were all good and all clean. I believe these pictures will be illustrate my dillema:





Modified by rice_classic at 5:06 PM 11/13/2003

 

what car was this for? did you have starting problems? my friend has a 91 hb with an ls motor and has starting probles i believe it's this relay is causing it... tia

 

the problem is almost always the cold solder joints that lose connection when hot. just reheat them with a gun and make sure the solder flows well around the peg.
stan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XtraFastCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what car was this for? did you have starting problems? my friend has a 91 hb with an ls motor and has starting probles i believe it's this relay is causing it... tia</TD></TR></TABLE>

IT was for an 88 crx with b16 and what nots.

So here's my problem.. It DIDN'T FIX THE PROBLEM!

My car doesn't have a hard time starting by any means and it seems to run normally. The problem is, it just DIES for no reason.. It'll start back up right away (sometimes) but this is starting to **** me off. during highway driving it will cough, or stutter for a tick then go back to normal.


checked all ground=good
replaced fuel filter=good
cap and rotor replaced=good
replaced Main Relay=good


What the fvck else is there that could cause this... I NEED YOUR HELP!!!

 

what about ignitor/ignition control module??
mine was starting a little harder than normal, but nothing too noticibly different, then it started to stall out and would take a while to get started again(like 5 mins), but this only happened when it was warm. Then it would start back up and run fine again. I replaced my ignitor, it starts a lot better than before(which I didnt realize was very bad) and it hasnt stalled out or had trouble starting after stalling since.

 

My guess is it fuel related. Could be cloged fuel filter, dirty injector, or fuel pump going bad. I'd check the fuel pressure with a gauge.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hcivic88 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what about ignitor/ignition control module??
mine was starting a little harder than normal, but nothing too noticibly different, then it started to stall out and would take a while to get started again(like 5 mins), but this only happened when it was warm. Then it would start back up and run fine again. I replaced my ignitor, it starts a lot better than before(which I didnt realize was very bad) and it hasnt stalled out or had trouble starting after stalling since.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The car starts just as easy as it always has. I've replaced both my Ignitor and Coil in dizzy twice (several days at the track) so they are both in good working order. Just to be sure I had swapped out ignitors and problem still endured.

Plus.. everytime I had ignitor problems I had a jumping tach.. not this time.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My guess is it fuel related. Could be cloged fuel filter, dirty injector, or fuel pump going bad. I'd check the fuel pressure with a gauge. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I have run 2 bottles of injector cleaner through 2 tanks of gas and no change. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge (but sure I could get one easily), and I am PRAYING it's not my fuel pump!

I appreciate the suggestions.

Also, I've been doing EXTENSIVE searches and saw someone comment on the SEALS for the fuel pump going bad and when they go bad you will smell strong scents of fuel in the cabin and then the car will occasionally die because the fuel pump loses pressure due to lack of seal.

Let me know what you all think... Honda-Tech help is MUCH cheaper than a couple hours of diagnostics at the Honda Dealership!!!

Thank you in advance!