Just got my JDM B16A From Osaka....Good news! Check it out
Ok, I know I know I shouldnt have bought from these guys becuase of all the bad things that go around. Well I bought this before I heard any of that. I'm new to the site and I didn't realize they were talked bad about so much. Well I called them up and told them what I wanted and got it ordered. I got a JDM b16A with shift linkage, mounts, and axles (the complete swap). I got everything shipped to my residential address for $1500 even. It arrived today and I must say I'm SUPER pleased. The engine is just spectacular. There really arent any oil leaks, No cracks or damage, no discoloration, nothing was broken besides maybe a few vaccum lines. I also got all the wiring and ecu which was in great shape. I'm very happy with it and I really couldnt believe it turned out this great after all the complaining and bad talk. Maye they have changed....or maybe I got lucky...here are a few snaps.








dirty teg motor? I think your confused...its a b16a motor which dont come in integras. And its actually very clean.
Yes I already have the motor on the engine stand with the ac compressor & pulley, power steering pulley and assembly, and idler pulley off the motor...waiting for my SFP cast stainless manifold and rev hard kit to show up.
Yes I already have the motor on the engine stand with the ac compressor & pulley, power steering pulley and assembly, and idler pulley off the motor...waiting for my SFP cast stainless manifold and rev hard kit to show up.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jaker »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually, the B16A was sold in the Integra XSi as well as the Civic SiR.</TD></TR></TABLE>
as well as the crx siR...
as well as the crx siR...
That one is definitely from an integra. 99.9999% certain. It's got the extra dashpot, and it's got the Teg ALB and cruise control lines coming out of the Tranny. Do some research, and be careful with that thing man.
if that going in a crx the shift linkage wont work trust me i ordered from them also and he said yes it will work so i paid 75.00 for and guess what didnot work i bought hasport buy the way my swap was clean also even though i didnt use the longblock just tranny and some other things i would put new head gasket and replace ALL!!! seals and gaskets
I am not 100% sure, but when I got my swap done, mine also came with the all the crap yours did (besides a/c and p/s).
The shop tried the jdm linkages just to be curious, but they didn't fit right anyways, but luckily they had already ordered the hasport modified ones.
I'm sure with some cuttin or whatever you can use them, but just lettin you know that they might not work.
BTW I used all of Hasports stuff, it would be interesting to find out that non-hasport mounts would work.
-andy
The shop tried the jdm linkages just to be curious, but they didn't fit right anyways, but luckily they had already ordered the hasport modified ones.
I'm sure with some cuttin or whatever you can use them, but just lettin you know that they might not work.
BTW I used all of Hasports stuff, it would be interesting to find out that non-hasport mounts would work.
-andy
Yeah osaka gives you an integra shift linkage or something, because its about 2 inches too long. I was pissed a paid $75 for it after being promised it woudl work. Anyhow, i just cut and welded it, broke it immediatly, welded it stronger......then used it for about 8 months. Finally i just got a hasport shift linkage when i had some spare money.
DEfinetly replace as many parts as you can while the motor is out. I didnt replace antying and luckily :knocks on wood: havent had any problems. Its just wise to do the basics while its there.
DEfinetly replace as many parts as you can while the motor is out. I didnt replace antying and luckily :knocks on wood: havent had any problems. Its just wise to do the basics while its there.
Upon looking closely at the pictures.......here are my questions...............
Why is the intermediate shaft not bolted to the engine? Why is the tranny UNbolted to the engine?
If you have already begun to dissemble the engine and tranny, then nevermind.
Otherwise, becareful because you "may" receive a AUTO B16 engine ( with the weakest cams) and they just took off the flex plate and bolted a flywheel, clutch, and 5 sp tranny to it.
I heard of buyers on the net getting an AUTO package.
Other than that, it looks nice!! Honestly, I'd rather get a JDM engine UNWASHED and UNCLEANED, so I know how it was treated and where there may be leaks. After it is POWER washed, you wash away the indications and history. But that's just me. I know a lot of people go by how "clean" the outside of the engine and tranny looks. What counts is the inside and how it was treated.
Just something for you to think about. Good luck with your new B16.
Why is the intermediate shaft not bolted to the engine? Why is the tranny UNbolted to the engine?
If you have already begun to dissemble the engine and tranny, then nevermind.
Otherwise, becareful because you "may" receive a AUTO B16 engine ( with the weakest cams) and they just took off the flex plate and bolted a flywheel, clutch, and 5 sp tranny to it.
I heard of buyers on the net getting an AUTO package.
Other than that, it looks nice!! Honestly, I'd rather get a JDM engine UNWASHED and UNCLEANED, so I know how it was treated and where there may be leaks. After it is POWER washed, you wash away the indications and history. But that's just me. I know a lot of people go by how "clean" the outside of the engine and tranny looks. What counts is the inside and how it was treated.
Just something for you to think about. Good luck with your new B16.
well, i would reccomend a rebuild on ANY B16 ordered from japan...
when i got mine they were both unwashed and have a bit of leekage hardened to the outside of the block (the crusty half-dried oil)
i'm rebuilding my gen II with ACL bearings and ARP rodbolts/headstuds
dont run with the clutch that came with the motor, get a new one.
read the # under the engine code and tell us wether it starts with a 1 or a 5.
what colour are the clips on the end of the wiring harness? white or grey?
this info will help you narrow down the kind of motor and what car it may have came out of...
when i got mine they were both unwashed and have a bit of leekage hardened to the outside of the block (the crusty half-dried oil)
i'm rebuilding my gen II with ACL bearings and ARP rodbolts/headstuds
dont run with the clutch that came with the motor, get a new one.
read the # under the engine code and tell us wether it starts with a 1 or a 5.
what colour are the clips on the end of the wiring harness? white or grey?
this info will help you narrow down the kind of motor and what car it may have came out of...
Man~ This is the BEST thread I've read today! I bought an '88 CRX and the engine is a little messed up. I have somewhat of an idea on what I want to do with the B16 swap that I am doing early next year, but I still have some questions.
Is it recommended that I rebuild the engine when I get it? Will the AC work with the CRX? Or do I have to replace the wiring harness so that the control panel works with the new engine AC? It is also recommended that I replace the clutch on the new tranny, right??
Is it recommended that I rebuild the engine when I get it? Will the AC work with the CRX? Or do I have to replace the wiring harness so that the control panel works with the new engine AC? It is also recommended that I replace the clutch on the new tranny, right??
Yeah I've already started dissasembling the engine. Its actually on the engine stand now and I have already taken off a ton of **** I dont need. Tranny is off along with clutch and flywheel which I will be getting a new stage II clutch and 8.8lb flywheel. I will be replacing a lot of gaskets, hoses, lines, and necessary things like that while its out not to mention a ton of cleaning.
Actually the motor didnt really come all washed up and everything...i mean it was clean but not that clean...you could tell they didnt wash down the motor or anything. There were no leaks of oil what so ever from the head, block, tranny, or oil pan.
Well guys if I had the money to do a complete rebuild, trust me I would in a heart beat while the motor is out. I just dont have the funds. J-spec b16a with sfp cast stainless manifold, rev hard stage II turbo kit, 3" downpipe, 3" Thermal catback, stock internals and head boosted to 7lbs will be the setup. I think it will be fine for what I want the car to be. What do you guys think?
Actually the motor didnt really come all washed up and everything...i mean it was clean but not that clean...you could tell they didnt wash down the motor or anything. There were no leaks of oil what so ever from the head, block, tranny, or oil pan.
Well guys if I had the money to do a complete rebuild, trust me I would in a heart beat while the motor is out. I just dont have the funds. J-spec b16a with sfp cast stainless manifold, rev hard stage II turbo kit, 3" downpipe, 3" Thermal catback, stock internals and head boosted to 7lbs will be the setup. I think it will be fine for what I want the car to be. What do you guys think?
Yeah I guess I will have to cut the shift linkage a little and re weld it...build it up so its strong though...and I really didnt have a clue the integra xsi came with the b16a
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by japrex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...and I really didnt have a clue the integra xsi came with the b16a</TD></TR></TABLE>
me neither till h-t told me.
me neither till h-t told me.
65-75% of all jdm b16a are out of the interga xsi
pr3 ecu = xsi
j1 or s1 tranny = xsi
the motor is easy to tell from the extra stuff on the intake manifold.
Sir's came with the y1 tranny and pw0 ecu. ( the j1 might have came with it also not too sure)
Cool thing is with the teg parts, they tried to make the heaveir teg as fast as the sir so the ecu has a little better map and the tranny will accel faster.
the linkage u have is also out of an integra and it is about 2 inches too long. U can cut it out and weld it or I have done one were we welded nuts on the ends and put a peice of he fully threaded things (forgot the name of it
) in the middle of it so it was adjustable.after we adjusted it to his liking we welded the locking nuts we had on it.
pr3 ecu = xsi
j1 or s1 tranny = xsi
the motor is easy to tell from the extra stuff on the intake manifold.
Sir's came with the y1 tranny and pw0 ecu. ( the j1 might have came with it also not too sure)
Cool thing is with the teg parts, they tried to make the heaveir teg as fast as the sir so the ecu has a little better map and the tranny will accel faster.
the linkage u have is also out of an integra and it is about 2 inches too long. U can cut it out and weld it or I have done one were we welded nuts on the ends and put a peice of he fully threaded things (forgot the name of it
) in the middle of it so it was adjustable.after we adjusted it to his liking we welded the locking nuts we had on it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DohcVtecCrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Sir's came with the y1 tranny and pw0 ecu. ( the j1 might have came with it also not too sure)
Cool thing is with the teg parts, they tried to make the heaveir teg as fast as the sir so the ecu has a little better map and the tranny will accel faster.
.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sorry, there's a bit of misinfo here. The PR3/PW0 have IDENTICAL Fuel and timing maps (verified by Katman). Also, the CRX SiR did not come with the J1. That's an Xsi transmission.
Sir's came with the y1 tranny and pw0 ecu. ( the j1 might have came with it also not too sure)
Cool thing is with the teg parts, they tried to make the heaveir teg as fast as the sir so the ecu has a little better map and the tranny will accel faster.
.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sorry, there's a bit of misinfo here. The PR3/PW0 have IDENTICAL Fuel and timing maps (verified by Katman). Also, the CRX SiR did not come with the J1. That's an Xsi transmission.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by japrex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well guys if I had the money to do a complete rebuild, trust me I would in a heart beat while the motor is out. I just dont have the funds. J-spec b16a with sfp cast stainless manifold, rev hard stage II turbo kit, 3" downpipe, 3" Thermal catback, stock internals and head boosted to 7lbs will be the setup. I think it will be fine for what I want the car to be. What do you guys think?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i think you should go into it with a rebuilt motor... why not save some cash and know you've got a fresh motor
my B16 next year is gunna be bone stock with an LS tranny I know dam well its gunna be a dog, but with ACL bearings and APR bolts it's sure to hold the boost. (hence my choice of LS tranny) all i need is pistons/rods...
i think you should go into it with a rebuilt motor... why not save some cash and know you've got a fresh motor
my B16 next year is gunna be bone stock with an LS tranny I know dam well its gunna be a dog, but with ACL bearings and APR bolts it's sure to hold the boost. (hence my choice of LS tranny) all i need is pistons/rods...
i can't believe all these suggestions of rebuilds and nobody mentioned anything about the condition of the cylinder head
2 words before you install the swap or do a motor rebuild:
COMPRESSION CHECK
that's one sure way to find out if you have gremlins hiding in your motor. good luck with the swap and the project
if you pulled the cylinder head already...you're assed out. you're gonna have to disassemble the head or take it to a machine shop to check for bent valves or any other damage
2 words before you install the swap or do a motor rebuild:
COMPRESSION CHECK
that's one sure way to find out if you have gremlins hiding in your motor. good luck with the swap and the project
if you pulled the cylinder head already...you're assed out. you're gonna have to disassemble the head or take it to a machine shop to check for bent valves or any other damage



