So i was reading that one good way to go when building na motor, is b16, the whole swap, and then bore out to b18 for torque, and then you still have the b16 rod ratio, for high revving. Is b16 bored to b18 alot, is there any prob with this. If it is done then, Im def getting sleevs, and all new internals. But it may also be buile for FI later. So whats the deal?

 

Sorry they both have 81mm bore

 

oh really dang, my bad dident even know that. Well then oh do you convert to b18

 

do some research; both bores are 81mm. the b18 blocks are ~7mm taller and have longer strokes (89mm for ls/gs/rs, 87.2 for gsr/itr) as vs. the b16a 77mm stroke. the crv 2L b20b/z blocks have 84mm bore X 89mm stroke (same as b18a/b ls crank). when built/tuned properly, they can all handle over 9k rpm, which is beyond the efficiency range of most of our engines. stock sleeves can handle more boost than you might expect, but i wouldn't try it without at least forged pistons and rods, and it depends on what turbo/fuel/ignition timing you run. (i think austrian type r on the FI board runs 17psi on pump gas, daily, on a t3/t4 turbonetics turbo, but i don't know the trim- it might be the one from the drag 3 kit.)

if you want to buy a good NA b18c project from me for a good price, look here:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=670523

 

Also keep in mind that you cannot easily resleeve a B16A block to 1.8 liters. Even at 84.5mm, you only have about 1730cc with the stock B16A stroke of 77.4mm.

 

the only b16 block worth resleeving is the B16B ,
not the b16a.
it's the same deck height as a b18 block...
basically it IS a b18c5 block with ctr crank and rods and what not if i'm not correct someone correct me

 

/\/\/\/\ not completely true...

stock B18C crank and rods, along with 84+mm pistons in a sleeved B16A block can get you to 2 liters IF YOU USE A CUSTOM PISTON that has the pin hole moved up to the top of the piston so you can use the longer B18C rods. in essence you need to move the pin hole on the piston, move it the distance of the difference in deck heights between B18 and B16.

cool trick huh? very sneaky to have a sleeved and overbored 84+mm B16A with a GSR/ITR crank/rods and aftermarket pistons, very very cool.

 

good luck getting a piston with the wrist pin that high; it liklely will have only the top piston ring, which will have to be located very highly, if it's even possible, in which case it's not so suitable for a daily driver, and not very resistant to detonation. you could get custom shorter rods and more reasonable custom pistons, but it'd be easier to use a deckplate, and easier, cheaper, and more reliable yet to just get a b18 block with which to begin. ...but some people like it the hard way.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by owen_the_soyboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">/\/\/\/\ not completely true...

stock B18C crank and rods, along with 84+mm pistons in a sleeved B16A block can get you to 2 liters IF YOU USE A CUSTOM PISTON that has the pin hole moved up to the top of the piston so you can use the longer B18C rods. in essence you need to move the pin hole on the piston, move it the distance of the difference in deck heights between B18 and B16.

cool trick huh? very sneaky to have a sleeved and overbored 84+mm B16A with a GSR/ITR crank/rods and aftermarket pistons, very very cool.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Notice that I said that about 1730cc is the maximum with the stock 77.4mm stroke. Strokers don't count. And they are not cost effective compared with going to a P72 block.