towing question #1 - Grand Cherokee V8 vs. Cherokee 4.0L... is the 4.0L up to the task? Is the V8 really needed? thats a big price difference....

towing question #2 - how the hell do you guys get your belly-scraping cars on and off the trailers, without destroying a bumper or high-centering a door sill?

edit: nevermind on the jeep question, I did a search

still wondering about loading and unload the trailer though. Every time my street car has seen a flatbed, its gotten front end damage coming off it



Modified by Greyout at 6:50 PM 11/6/2003

 

I have a Tacoma V6 and have no problems at all towing one race car (2600lbs) and supplies. So, for power go with what is reliable and best for gas.


I have a trailer with a "beaver tail". The back of the trailer dips down to about 3 inches above grade and when I raise the front, I can get it almost to grade even before using ramps.

 

Cherokee = unibody. the engine isn't the problem - it's the chassis and suspension that are rated at 4000lbs (I think).

Grand Cherokee should be ok, but check tow ratings.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Greyout &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how the hell do you guys get your belly-scraping cars on and off the trailers, without destroying a bumper or high-centering a door sill? </TD></TR></TABLE>

If the trailer doesn't have a beaver tail, then use long ramps and use the jack to raise the front of the trailer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by davidnyc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a Tacoma V6 and have no problems at all towing one race car (2600lbs) and supplies. So, for power go with what is reliable and best for gas.


I have a trailer with a "beaver tail". The back of the trailer dips down to about 3 inches above grade and when I raise the front, I can get it almost to grade even before using ramps.</TD></TR></TABLE>

this set-up worked well for getting my lower'd car on and off. and my car is pritty low, y0
another way to do it is to load the car on the trailor w/o the trailor attached to the tow veichle. chock the trailor wheels and drive on up. the nose of the trailor will come up when u start driving up the trailor and as the weight gets closer to the nose, it will fall back down. its ugly, but it works.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Greyout &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
towing question #2 - how the hell do you guys get your belly-scraping cars on and off the trailers, without destroying a bumper or high-centering a door sill?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

boards. almost everyone in the paddock has a collection of lumber they use to get the car on/off the trailer w/o scraping something.

joel

 

Regarding the Jeep, I wouldn't tow with less than the GC. I have the GC V8 and there's plenty of power assuming you're not in a hurry. I get about 12mpg towing on the HWY. The issue is the stability and the brakes, both of which suck on the GC and would be even worse on the cherokees. My trailer+car weighs-in well under 4000#.

As for loading, I got the suggestion from someone on-line to use rhino ramps under the rear tires of the truck. Works like a charm. My trailer has a beaver tail but the ramps are only 6'. If I end up buidling 8 or 10' ramps, that might solve the problem. In the meantime, backing onto $30 rhino ramps solved the problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Greyout &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
towing question #2 - how the hell do you guys get your belly-scraping cars on and off the trailers, without destroying a bumper or high-centering a door sill?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Tricks I have used/seen people use:

* Intricate ramps made of wood
* Raise front coilover
* Trailer the car on big(er) wheels and 60 series tires

Now that I have been shopping for trailers, I did notice that most must be designed to haul monster trucks because I just don't see how a race car (or even a stock sports car) will clear the ramps.

 

I don't recommend loading the car without the trailer hooked to the truck. You're just asking for trouble IMO.

Beaver tail (or dove tail) trailers help
Driving the rear wheels of the truck on ramps helps
Long wood planks help
Removing the front bumper also may be necessary

$.02

 

The GC works well to tow my 85 CRX on an open trailer and I have the 4.0L. I run with OD off and can cruise at 75+ on the highway without problems. I am in the midwest so no mountains to cross. I would probably do the V-8 next time for the extra power.

If you get a trailer with the beavertail and longer ramps, you will have much better luck loading and unloading without scraping. I have a Classic Mfg trailer which works well and has removable fenders to help getting into and out of the car once it is loaded. The bed is also pretty low on 14" tires and wheels. I do also sometimes jack up the front of the trailer to help the angle, if needed.

 

I always used 4x6 wood ramps (supplied by Fastist12, thanks) under the truck(suburban). Always worked great.

To save time and whenever I could I would park so that the front wheels were lower than the rear. ie the front wheels on gravel and the rear on asphalt 1-2" higher.

Just to be clear, the front of the trailer should never be jacked up...the jack should be placed under the hitch. And don't use the bulldogs, they break.

Rick



Modified by turfer at 6:48 PM 11/6/2003