Adding electric oil temp sensor?
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From: YEAH HO, FRISCO, NORCAL
I'm in process fo building a 89 CRX hybrid track/HPDE car.....
anybody add an electric oil temp sensor to a Acura B18c1 motor? I plan on putting a baffled oil pan and want to use a Spoon pan. I really want to use a Z10 pan which already has the bungs for oil temp and oil return but can't afford $475.00 for an oil pan. the Spoon usually goes for $275.00 around here.
I also have a B&M oil cooler already that i'll keep, anyway of tapping into it with a tee fitting/adaptor?
anybody add an electric oil temp sensor to a Acura B18c1 motor? I plan on putting a baffled oil pan and want to use a Spoon pan. I really want to use a Z10 pan which already has the bungs for oil temp and oil return but can't afford $475.00 for an oil pan. the Spoon usually goes for $275.00 around here.
I also have a B&M oil cooler already that i'll keep, anyway of tapping into it with a tee fitting/adaptor?
If you're already running the plumbing for the oil cooler, it may be easier to just tap it off of a remote filter. Or you could T it off the block at the stock sender location. Or you can replace the oil pan drain plug. Or you can tap the spoon pan. Or you can T off the oil line. Or you can...
Lots of options.
Lots of options.
Thread Starter
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From: YEAH HO, FRISCO, NORCAL
okay, well I think the best bet is tapping somewhere off the oil cooler hoses. they are rubber. any ideas on what to use to fit the sensor into?
I have a "temp. sensor drainplug" that I bought of a vw site. It just run a wire from it to a little oil tem guage in my console and presto.. I know exactly what the oil temp is at the bottom of the pan.
I will post up pictures later.. right now I'm tired.
I will post up pictures later.. right now I'm tired.
here we go






I don't care what anyone says about this! It has worked flawlessly for 6 track days and several miles of daily driving. It's very easy to change my oil as well.






I don't care what anyone says about this! It has worked flawlessly for 6 track days and several miles of daily driving. It's very easy to change my oil as well.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rice_classic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> 
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thats practially genius. got a link to where you bought it?

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thats practially genius. got a link to where you bought it?
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I did a write up on the whole deal a long time ago.
Here's the link but remember the pictures in this thread are the same that were in that thread those just don't work anymore.
Anyway. I list the website I got it from, describe the part, and I list the part number. I also supply the link to the website (Larry's Offroad)
edit: Here's the link https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=538065
Here's the link but remember the pictures in this thread are the same that were in that thread those just don't work anymore.
Anyway. I list the website I got it from, describe the part, and I list the part number. I also supply the link to the website (Larry's Offroad)
edit: Here's the link https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=538065
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From: One by one, the penguins steal my sanity.
Is a sensor in that location an accurate representation of the oil temperature? Do most people put the sender pre-cooler, or post-cooler?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crack Monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is a sensor in that location an accurate representation of the oil temperature? Do most people put the sender pre-cooler, or post-cooler?</TD></TR></TABLE>
hi crack!
i have a sensor in the pan, right next to the drain plug in my H1 race car. i feel that it reads high; that is, it is reading the highest possible oil temp anywhere in the engine; it reads the oil temp after it has come out of the head and bearings, etc. plus it gets some radiant heat from the exhaust into the pan....
i have a mondo huge oil/water combo cooler, built into a Howe racing radiator. designed for V8 race cars. i routinely see 150 degrees C on the oil temp gauge during a long race. on the other hand, i can pull into the pits, open the hood, and grab the oil line leaving the cooler with my bare hands. it is hot, but i don't think it is anywhere near 150 degrees C. also, my oil looks great after 4 track days. very light amber color; looks just like it came out of the bottle. before the cooler, after only 1 to 2 days, it was black as hell...
so i think a better place to put the sensor would be after the oil cooler. this is the temp of the oil as it passes into the engine to do its job...
hi crack!
i have a sensor in the pan, right next to the drain plug in my H1 race car. i feel that it reads high; that is, it is reading the highest possible oil temp anywhere in the engine; it reads the oil temp after it has come out of the head and bearings, etc. plus it gets some radiant heat from the exhaust into the pan....
i have a mondo huge oil/water combo cooler, built into a Howe racing radiator. designed for V8 race cars. i routinely see 150 degrees C on the oil temp gauge during a long race. on the other hand, i can pull into the pits, open the hood, and grab the oil line leaving the cooler with my bare hands. it is hot, but i don't think it is anywhere near 150 degrees C. also, my oil looks great after 4 track days. very light amber color; looks just like it came out of the bottle. before the cooler, after only 1 to 2 days, it was black as hell...
so i think a better place to put the sensor would be after the oil cooler. this is the temp of the oil as it passes into the engine to do its job...
My recommendation is to put the sensor where YOU want it. Where do YOU want the reading.. that's all that matters.
I like my reading HOT when it comes out of the motor that way I can catch overly hot temps quicker. A good analogy would be setting your alarm clock a few minutes fast to be at work on time.
I like my reading HOT when it comes out of the motor that way I can catch overly hot temps quicker. A good analogy would be setting your alarm clock a few minutes fast to be at work on time.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by APEX CRX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so the baffling or just workmanship is better in the Mugen? </TD></TR></TABLE>
workmanship. There's not much to either one - nothing any semi-competent welder couldn't duplicate. Sometimes it's just easier to buy it though... especially considering what a stock oil pan costs new.
workmanship. There's not much to either one - nothing any semi-competent welder couldn't duplicate. Sometimes it's just easier to buy it though... especially considering what a stock oil pan costs new.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JeffS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
workmanship. There's not much to either one - nothing any semi-competent welder couldn't duplicate. Sometimes it's just easier to buy it though... especially considering what a stock oil pan costs new.
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Very well put. There was a thread about he mugen pan a while back that had LOTS of very good info on it. Try a search in the archives and see what you come up with.
workmanship. There's not much to either one - nothing any semi-competent welder couldn't duplicate. Sometimes it's just easier to buy it though... especially considering what a stock oil pan costs new.
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Very well put. There was a thread about he mugen pan a while back that had LOTS of very good info on it. Try a search in the archives and see what you come up with.
they just dont make Mugen oilpans like they used to....
was sold on ebay a a year or two ago for about the same as a moroso pan and then resold for an extra hundred or more.
Modified by Tyson at 3:22 PM 11/4/2003
was sold on ebay a a year or two ago for about the same as a moroso pan and then resold for an extra hundred or more.
Modified by Tyson at 3:22 PM 11/4/2003
that is very nice looking; especially the kickouts at the bottom.....
although, i wouldn't want to bottom it out and crack it and kaboom the motor... thats one nice thing about a steel sheet metal pan; more likely to bend instead of crack apart.
although, i wouldn't want to bottom it out and crack it and kaboom the motor... thats one nice thing about a steel sheet metal pan; more likely to bend instead of crack apart.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mista Bone »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Like you would ever test the curbing.........
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me??? naaaaa..... i always drive at 8/10s
</TD></TR></TABLE>me??? naaaaa..... i always drive at 8/10s
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