I am having the battery mounted in the trunk with a Summit Racing relocation kit. Someone said that if you have a battery mounted in the trunk, you have to have an external shut offfor drag racing. Anyone know anything about this? Is there a way around having a HUGE silly on/off switch in the rear? Is it maybe a state by state or track by track basis?
Thanks in advance,
-clint

 

It's mandatory at any track.

 

Well....I'll just have to go to the 1 track I know that does a fly-by tech inspection until I get the switch.
Summit would probably have it?

 

Yes summit does have it. Jegs.com also has em.

 

you might also want to look into the NHRA rules, because some of those ones they sell at jegs or summit aren't NHRA legal.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by martini &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you might also want to look into the NHRA rules, because some of those ones they sell at jegs or summit aren't NHRA legal.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup...I noticed that when I was looking for them.
Thanks guys!

 

i have my battery mounted in the front of my car...do i still need to put an emergency shut off on the rear of my car????

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2.2Lcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have my battery mounted in the front of my car...do i still need to put an emergency shut off on the rear of my car????</TD></TR></TABLE>

technically it says any relocated battery and any car running 9.99 or faster has to have a switch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racerxadam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

technically it says any relocated battery and any car running 9.99 or faster has to have a switch. </TD></TR></TABLE>

IT???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NirVTECn2o &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

IT???</TD></TR></TABLE>

the nhra rulebook

http://www.nhrasportcompact.com

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NirVTECn2o &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

IT???</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry, i thought will the NHRA rule book talk above you could USE CONTEXT to realize where i was getting the info

 

Any car that traps 135+ has to have a cut-off switch regardless of where the battery is mounted dave, so its safe to say u need one, some day

 

ill have to order it and put that bad boy in..i cant be going to races and not be able to pass tech.

thanks guy's


-dave

 

it was eluded to higher up but make sure you get a switch that can kill the alternator as well as the battery, if you are running an alternator.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racerxadam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Sorry, i thought will the NHRA rule book talk above you could USE CONTEXT to realize where i was getting the info</TD></TR></TABLE>

sORRY.....Brain wasn't working very well!

 

This involves a little more work, but end result is slick. Use the standard kill switch that has the big "bat handle" on it, turns left or right. Mount in inside the car, "sideways" so that the handle actually moves forward or backward. (Keep reading). Pick up an extra tail light assembly for your car. Drill a hole through the tail light assembly, and fabricate a rod that goes through the hole and attaches to a hole you drilled through the top of the handle on the switch. From the outside of the car, you pull the rod to turn on the power, push the rod to turn off. When you're done at the track, go home and remove the rod, switch tail lights, and your're clean for the street again. You can even permantly mark your "racing" tail light with "PUSH - OFF" and the tech inspectors will be happy as hell.

Hope that made sense, I haven't had my coffee yet.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by old guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This involves a little more work, but end result is slick. Use the standard kill switch that has the big "bat handle" on it, turns left or right. Mount in inside the car, "sideways" so that the handle actually moves forward or backward. (Keep reading). Pick up an extra tail light assembly for your car. Drill a hole through the tail light assembly, and fabricate a rod that goes through the hole and attaches to a hole you drilled through the top of the handle on the switch. From the outside of the car, you pull the rod to turn on the power, push the rod to turn off. When you're done at the track, go home and remove the rod, switch tail lights, and your're clean for the street again. You can even permantly mark your "racing" tail light with "PUSH - OFF" and the tech inspectors will be happy as hell.

Hope that made sense, I haven't had my coffee yet.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've seen that before, it looks quite nice and is very functional on a street based car.

Jim...did you get my phone call last week?

Austin

 

also keep in mind that teh black "marine" boxes that summit sells are not track legal. the morosso battery box is the only legal box because it "seals" the battery- in addition to having a vent tube that u run outside the car via drilling a hole. i ran into this b.s. when i ran the cheapo summit relocation kit. had to make a tin firewall to pass tech. then said f-it and bought the morosso box and ripped out the tin firewall.

however, if u have a gell &lt;sp?&gt; battery, i believe u can get around this.

also, if u hook up the kill switch, and it don't kill the car b/c of the alternator, run a wire from the kill switch straight to the alternator.

hth

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedgirlscar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...snip...
however, if u have a gell &lt;sp?&gt; battery, i believe u can get around this.
...snip...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope, regardless of which battery you have, it must be vented. At least that's what I remember of the rules, and I've sat down and read the entire rule book.

Austin

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Austin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Nope, regardless of which battery you have, it must be vented. At least that's what I remember of the rules, and I've sat down and read the entire rule book.

Austin</TD></TR></TABLE>

Correct "Gel-Cell" batterys still must be vented. Like Optima's etc....

 

so the kill switch must be in the drivers reach??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JICEK9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so the kill switch must be in the drivers reach??</TD></TR></TABLE>
No it has to be in the back of the car somewhere. Rob

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sircrxracer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
No it has to be in the back of the car somewhere. Rob</TD></TR></TABLE>

oh. ok thank you "sir"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JICEK9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so the kill switch must be in the drivers reach??</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's actually a road racing rule if I remember correctly.

Austin

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedgirlscar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the morosso battery box is the only legal box because it "seals" the battery- in addition to having a vent tube that u run outside the car via drilling a hole. </TD></TR></TABLE>

taylor cable also makes a legal one, NHRA legal, aluminum box, sealed, vent tube included. also 3/8 mounting bolts too.
http://www.taylorvertex.com/batkits.html

very nice piece, i have one for myself