first what is involved in doing this ? sensors in-sensors out whats all that, i have RC 440s in my turbo 99si and was wondering why would you even go thru all the trouble of doing so? help me out

 

search VAFC hack. there are over 300 threads on it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NCHATCH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> and was wondering why would you even go thru all the trouble of doing so? help me out </TD></TR></TABLE>

to have a safer runing engine....(safer then using a fmu/high pressure fuel pump)

 

cause it's easy and it works when done correctly.

 

besides the reliability of running WAY lower fuel pressure, tuning the fuel is a nice benifit.

Some hacked cars have kind of a jittery throttle tip in. It's easy to drive around smoothly it just takes a few days to get used to it.

 

so that is call "tip in", when you part thorttle and it jerks cuz the fuel injectors kick in at like 5% instead of 1% throttle eh???

it's so gay that honda turns off the injectors when no gas is pressed.... if this is TRUE, why do we hear the stupid decleartion sound of the engine if there is no fuel combusting??

 

pros- it's beter then fmu's
cons- Even when tuned well can still blow you motor

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2000vsm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so that is call "tip in", when you part thorttle and it jerks cuz the fuel injectors kick in at like 5% instead of 1% throttle eh???

it's so gay that honda turns off the injectors when no gas is pressed.... if this is TRUE, why do we hear the stupid decleartion sound of the engine if there is no fuel combusting??</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have news for ya. All modern day fuel injected cars do the same thing. It's called deleanment. It's for fuel economy and emmisions. The reason you hear the sound of combustion is due to the very little fuel still injected into the combustion chamber. This is to obviously keep the engine running. Just what I've learned over the years.

 

so whats the difference between the vafc hack and me running rc 440s and an fmu, on a tuned turbo civic?????

i just dont understand the purpose for going this route, is it cost effectiveness, durability, or power???

 

hack still does nothing for timing which some people forget..
soo too much timing = kaboom

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NCHATCH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so whats the difference between the vafc hack and me running rc 440s and an fmu, on a tuned turbo civic?????

i just dont understand the purpose for going this route, is it cost effectiveness, durability, or power???</TD></TR></TABLE>

Put in those 440s and fmu then try and get your car to idle...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nevin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Put in those 440s and fmu then try and get your car to idle...</TD></TR></TABLE>


Some people do the hack with a FMU with a smaller ratio disk in it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NCHATCH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">first what is involved in doing this ? sensors in-sensors out whats all that, i have RC 440s in my turbo 99si and was wondering why would you even go thru all the trouble of doing so? help me out </TD></TR></TABLE>

don't mess with the sensor in/out if you don't have a 3 bar map. that changes the voltage of the map sensor going in and out to the ecu. all you have to worry about is adjusting the fuel maps.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NCHATCH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so whats the difference between the vafc hack and me running rc 440s and an fmu, on a tuned turbo civic?????

i just dont understand the purpose for going this route, is it cost effectiveness, durability, or power???</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeStUdO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Some people do the hack with a FMU with a smaller ratio disk in it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think he was talking about just a fmu with 440cc injectors, which is pretty sumed up by his closing statment.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NCHATCH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just dont understand the purpose for going this route, is it cost effectiveness, durability, or power???</TD></TR></TABLE>
No offense or anything man, but you need to research and learn some more and decide the best route to take for your goals.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiRkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hack still does nothing for timing which some people forget..
soo too much timing = kaboom</TD></TR></TABLE>

MSD BTM, turn back the distributor a few degrees, or remap the ignition maps. THe "hack" works very well, as long as you take some timing out to compensate fr the boost.

 

the hack is WAY better than the fmu route for a few reasons

1- not dealing with 120 psi + of fuel pressure
2 - its basically an electronic fmu so its adjustable
3- when tuned right you can make it pretty smooth just like hondata

go ahead and try using your fmu and putting the 440s in , it quite simply just wont idle. go to dropshop.com to research a lil more before you get deep into it w/out knowing what your doing.

the hack is there so that you dont need to use the check valve or fmu and using bigger injectors means you have to trick the ecu , if you are running bigger injectors then you are automatically dumping alot more fuel than needed so you will need to lean it out at idle around -29 then work from there. Its better than getting 12 psi of fuel pressure per pound boost using the fmu though. hack is also only for mild boost and works just like hondata w/out timing options. After about 11 psi it will throw a check engine light so sooner or later you will need a standalone such as ems or hondata or motec.