Import Builders get me a set up for my B16a. This is what they told me would be a good set up for my car. Dailly driver CRX.

IB Spec ultralight rods
IB Spec 11.5:1 pistons 81.5 MM
New bearings, oil pump
New head gasket
Dominator head pack.
Civic Type-R cams
Type-R intake manifold
64MM throttle body
JG Edelbrock Header

Would you change anything?

Type-R intake manifold.......Couldn't I just rework the one I have on the B16a?
Are the Civic Type-R cams the best choice for the setup?

Could I go turbo done the road if I change the compression ratio?

 

I wouldn't invest money in that crappy bottom end, unless its for a road racer.
Chances are you drag race, and should buy an Ls bottom end and build that up.

 

what are your plans with this motor? drag, road race? this will be a highly reliable motor and should be good in your rex! but if you want drag you could get a ls bottom or a gsr bottom end and it will give you lil more whp.

A ITR IM is not that expensive and it's nice to have may give a 4-5 whp over the b16 mani

 

The plain is to just use the car as a daily driver. No drag. Unless it's a Ford Butt stain or Vett.......exc.

Can I go LS/GSR block and stay reliable?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jbraga78 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The plain is to just use the car as a daily driver. No drag. Unless it's a Ford Butt stain or Vett.......exc.

Can I go LS/GSR block and stay reliable?</TD></TR></TABLE> yeah since you are getting new rods (or plan to get new rods) they should be good with this setup plu sit'll bump your compression up .2 because of the stroke of the ls crank. jeff knows his stuff and well will help you with any questions you got! good luck on the build

 

Isn't the AEBs intake manifold better than stock Type R manifold and also cheaper?

If you wnat to go fast with a B16a, IM drag_racer_dru on this board, I think that is his name. His b16 EG went 12.80s on CTR cams back in the day

 

Yeah, I think that is a very good and well-thought out setup for a fun daily driver, considering the balanced comprise you get between performance, affordability, and reliability. I think it should be competitive setup for auto-x and rr as well. If it were up to me, i'd prob also get a Hondata S100, maybe a upgraded radiator, and oil cooler for addtional relability (which is prob overkill if you don't race, but doesn't hurt much to have nonetheless). Lol, if I have the money, i'd prob opt for the same setup for my daily driver. Pls keep us updated!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -KangaRod- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldn't invest money in that crappy bottom end</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh dear lord.... calling the b16a a "crappy bottom end" is just about as smart as asking ray charles to draw you a picture.

Good job sticking with the b16a. Should be a strong motor with some quality bolt-ons.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jbraga78 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Can I go LS/GSR block and stay reliable?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I really don't understand why people think this is not a reliable way to go. Get an LS or B20 block and you will be much happier.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM EK9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Isn't the AEBs intake manifold better than stock Type R manifold and also cheaper?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

The AEBS looks like the mold was make from play doh.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jbraga78 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Import Builders get me a set up for my B16a. This is what they told me would be a good set up for my car. Dailly driver CRX.

IB Spec ultralight rods Good choice
IB Spec 11.5:1 pistons 81.5 MM Sounds good
New bearings, oil pump
New head gasket Go with a Spoon or mugen gasket, itll jump your compression to about 11.9:1 which is still very streetable
Dominator head pack. Good stuff
Civic Type-R cams Im a big fan of the JUN 3 cams which stomps CTR cams in terms of power but its really all personal preference
Type-R intake manifold Skunk2 IM will cost you a little more but youll get a few extra HP over the ITR and the curve will be alittle more broad
64MM throttle body
JG Edelbrock Header get the mod'd version of this header w/ 2.5 collector... Huge gains over the unmod'd JG/E piece

Would you change anything? Other than what I already did changed yes... ditch the B16 Block and go with an LS or B20 block... preferably B20... It will make tons more power, still be extremely reliable and be a hell of alot of fun to drive

Type-R intake manifold.......Couldn't I just rework the one I have on the B16a?
Are the Civic Type-R cams the best choice for the setup?

Could I go turbo done the road if I change the compression ratio? All Motor is so much more fun </TD></TR></TABLE>


We all have different opinions... lol, that definitely seemed like a Jeff set up... Im a little less conservative in reguards to a street motor



Modified by RS_H22 at 5:44 PM 11/2/2003

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dumbshit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The AEBS looks like the mold was make from play doh. </TD></TR></TABLE>

who cares what it looks like, as long as it works

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Unsung EM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Oh dear lord.... calling the b16a a "crappy bottom end" is just about as smart as asking ray charles to draw you a picture.

Good job sticking with the b16a. Should be a strong motor with some quality bolt-ons. </TD></TR></TABLE>

B16 POWA~~!!!! must.... sell.... cams.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Skunk2 IM will cost you a little more but youll get a few extra HP over the ITR and the curve will be alittle more broad </TD></TR></TABLE>

isnt the skunk 2 an exact copy of an ITR IM? only difference i noticed was the coolant passage...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jbraga78 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Import Builders get me a set up for my B16a. This is what they told me would be a good set up for my car. Dailly driver CRX.

IB Spec ultralight rods
IB Spec 11.5:1 pistons 81.5 MM
New bearings, oil pump
New head gasket
Dominator head pack.
Civic Type-R cams
Type-R intake manifold
64MM throttle body
JG Edelbrock Header

Would you change anything?

Type-R intake manifold.......Couldn't I just rework the one I have on the B16a?
Are the Civic Type-R cams the best choice for the setup?


Could I go turbo done the road if I change the compression ratio? </TD></TR></TABLE>
One of the most important things this setup is missing is hondata, fuel pump, regulater and some good injectors. You will need fuel for all the air that head will flow, ands rpm you will turn. oh and cams gears. The manifold could be reworked but the Type R will be new and clean. As far as turbo goes you will need to decide now. If you change your mind later you will be wasting money on pistons, cams, and headers!! Just my opinion!! Anyway good luck tiger!!

 

go with a bigger bore stock block.
i.e. gsr block, ls block.

 

im not really going to get into it, but i will say this
IB knows their ****. they build some of the best allmotor and turbo cars cash can buy. if you are asking H-T if they picked a good setup its like asking a nissan guy how to build an allmotor car..

granted there are A FEW people in here that know as much or more than IB, but in the end your getting a bunch of people trying to tell you what they would have if they had the cash and have no experience with it. a b20 bottom end is unreliable without sleeving it. a b16 is an extremly reliable bottom end and will last a very long time even when beating on it 24/7. and just watch your I B motor will be making more HP than some people in here with b20vtec's and built internals..

 

b16's r/s ratio is tizzite y0......I would love to sleeve and bore on out with rods and high compression pistons and a ported head and run direct port nitrous on it at high revs. It's definitely hold together and be a ton of fun

 

Evol its the same bore. ie. CTR pistons work in the 1.8's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EVOL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go with a bigger bore stock block.
i.e. gsr block, ls block.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think you mean bigger stroke... B16/18 all share the same 81mm bore

B18C1/5
81 x 87.2

B18A/B
81 x 89

B16A
81 x 77.4

B16B
81 x 77.4

 

i like IB i think they have good stuff and know their engines but they are way to expensive for me. looking at some of their $10k engines is crazy for 10k you could build such a good turbo motor and blow any ib motor away as well as a lot of other cars also but they still get a from me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsr-2nr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looking at some of their $10k engines is crazy for 10k you could build such a good turbo motor and blow any ib motor away</TD></TR></TABLE>

The $10K+ prices include everything, its not just the motor... Its an entire swap... Completely built long block, Flywheel, Clutch, LSD, Trans, ECU, the motor properly broken in and fully tuned with Hondata, SMSP header, Custom IM, Billet TB, Motor mounts, new axles, shift linkage... Every single thing... If you want just the longblock its alot cheaper... Compare that price to the going rates for a built longblock only from any other Engine builder... Youll find that what you get with us is quite a good deal...

These motors consistantly make 240-260+WHP depending on particular build and are pretty much a drop in and run high 11/s low 12's in a EG hatch or lightweight civic or CRX type deal...

 

imo ls and gsr have more torgue off the bottom to get you moving, i have a b16 in my car right now and it is very sluggish off the bottom till vtec. if you love b16's then stick with it, it sounds like a good set up to me and with high compression and rods, all that crap, the b16 should get movin fine off the bottom, it's all up to you man

 

Why did you choose the CTR cams? Have you looked into the Skunk2 Stage2 cams or the Toda cams that are equiv to the Stage2's?

Nice setup though!