i was told i would get better low/mid power and maybe a bit better MPG.
since i drive mostly highway (with the rpms in the 4000-4500 range) i figured this may help a bit.
i was also told it will lose a little high-end in compensation.

any ideas?
any drawbacks?

btw, completely stock.

 

i adjusted mine to 18 degrees and I can't tell a difference

 

There used to be dynos of it. I think its 2-3 whp. About the same as an intake.

Edit. 5whp here:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=531423

 

How exactly do you adjust it to 18 degrees?

 

i have dynos but i cant post them cus they are in dynojet runviewer format. dont know how to convert it over. but mine went from 157 to 164 atw just from doin this!

edit: gained all through the powerband too. not one place was it equal to or lower.

 

have mine done on my gizzer you can tell a difference a lil on the butt dyno

 

14-18 degrees is stock timing.

 

so advancing the timing on stock cams would net somewhere around 2-3whp?

 

We're talking about igintion (sp?) timing....I go w/ 16 deg. on the distrib and 1.5 advance from the ECU around town, and 22 deg. total @ the track w/ 100 oct. BIG GAINS noticed there....

 

The higher the timing, the greater the midrange, the lower the timing, the more top end power you'll gain...to a certain degree though. Going below 12ish will start dropping power throughout the rpm band.

Here is a dyno chart of my car 17deg timing (blue) vs 16deg timing (red). Had a run left, decided to play around a little



There is a nice 3-4wtq gain in the midrang with the advanced timing. But as you can see, it drops about 1whp up top. I left it at 17

 

I have mine @ 18 & I could tell a diff. I would suggest getting some cooler plugs to help stop detonation. NGK standard core plugs. Stock # 1273. They are 1 stage cooler than stock. Doing this I noticed a decent amount bottom to mid increase. & I didn't seem to lose any power in the high RPM's.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR 98 1162 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How exactly do you adjust it to 18 degrees?</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...g.php

Can someone explain if the service connector really needs to be jumped? Is this whats usually considered resetting the ECU?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jond &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Can someone explain if the service connector really needs to be jumped?</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you're **** you can jump the service connector , it keeps the ecu from changing the idle based on load variations and such.

I jump the connector everytime.

 

Yes, the service connector needs to be jumped in order for the ECU to understand that the timing is to be accepted and reset in the ECU (otherwise I believe it compensates somehow even though the distributor has been moved).

Resetting the ECU is done by either pulling the ECU fuse in the engine compartment or disconnecting the battery (if disconnecting the battery have your radio code handy).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zygspeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, the service connector needs to be jumped in order for the ECU to understand that the timing is to be accepted and reset in the ECU (otherwise I believe it compensates somehow even though the distributor has been moved).
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Jumping the connector is needed to temp. disable the ECU timing compensation AT the moment you are reading the timing so you'll get an accurate reading. It's not for telling the ECU to understand the change.
In fact you don't have to short the connector if you know exactly how much you have to turn the distributor for 18 deg.

 

OK ... that's why I usually let someone else (who knows what he's doing) do the actual work on my car!

I stand corrected. Ed


Modified by zygspeed at 8:41 AM 10/29/2003

 

I advanced mine and definately noticed a difference. Mine is at about 22 degrees on pump gas, no pinging here

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98ITR#0020 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I advanced mine and definately noticed a difference. Mine is at about 22 degrees on pump gas, no pinging here </TD></TR></TABLE>

1. How do you know its not pinging? Can you hear it ping at 8000+rpm?
2. Is their any HP gain after 18 degrees?

 

I think after 18-19 you start dropping power significantly. Especially up top.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jond &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

1. How do you know its not pinging? Can you hear it ping at 8000+rpm?
2. Is their any HP gain after 18 degrees?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

1. It will show on the dyno. Probably cant hear it from 5500RPM on.
2. Yes. Like I posted earlier 18 degrees is stock timing (and intended for the lowest octane gas that one would put in the car which is 87; I believe)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98ITR#0020 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I advanced mine and definately noticed a difference. </TD></TR></TABLE>

this is called placebo.

 

After jumping the service connector and changing the timing to where i want it...

should i reset my ECU?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by t &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

1. It will show on the dyno. Probably cant hear it from 5500RPM on.
2. Yes. Like I posted earlier 18 degrees is stock timing (and intended for the lowest octane gas that one would put in the car which is 87; I believe)</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was always under the impression stock timing on a C5 is 16deg...no? Otherwise, "advancing timing" to 18deg wouldn't really be advancing would it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DutchITR1689 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
In fact you don't have to short the connector if you know exactly how much you have to turn the distributor for 18 deg.</TD></TR></TABLE>

my mechanic did mine without jumping the service connector, he did use a timing gun though. and u can definitely feel the difference through the whole power band.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I was always under the impression stock timing on a C5 is 16deg...no? Otherwise, "advancing timing" to 18deg wouldn't really be advancing would it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Check your underhood sticker it says 16 +/- 2, which means 14-18 is stock timing.