MUST you have padding on your roll bar or roll cage? At BeaveRun, it was not REQUIRED, but very recommended.

MUST the car have a radio? What is the ruling on exposed wires for a radio unit that has been removed?

I'm going to Sebring, FL in January and would like to know the answers so I can start getting the car ready.

 

Marc - all of this is going to be up to the organization running the event and the track hosting it. They all have different insurance requirements to fullfill.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RealTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">MUST you have padding on your roll bar or roll cage? At BeaveRun, it was not REQUIRED, but very recommended.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not to be crude, but how hard is your head? I have a buddy that while in a full helmet, he hit the one unpadded section of his rollbar (while backing into armco) and he has no recollection of the following 3 or 4 hours.

For me, rollbar padding is required. If my student doesn't have it, I'll ride one session, but they better figure out where to get some before second session.

r2x ~ who is just stating her opinion

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by r2x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">r2x ~ who is just stating her opinion</TD></TR></TABLE>

welcome back!

as far as padding goes, use the good stuff, which meets SFI spec 45.1. As far as I know this means either Kirkey, BSCI or Simpson BeadALL. The stuff that doesn't meet SFI 45.1 is only good for water pipe insulation. If you have a passenger seat and are taking passengers (instructors) you need to pad that side too. My race car has $150 worth of the kirkey stuff in it because I dont want to take a chance on cracking some poor students helmet on my roll cage.

joel

edit: change RCI to BSCI. Add Simpson. Can you tell I'm bored at work today?


Modified by JoelG at 7:59 AM 10/28/2003

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JoelG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

welcome back!

as far as padding goes, use the good stuff, which means either the Kirkey stuff or the stuff from RCI. That water pipe insulation is nearly useless. If you have a passenger seat and are taking passengers (instructors) you need to pad that side too. My race car has $150 worth of the kirkey stuff in it because I dont want to take a chance on cracking some poor students helmet on my roll cage.

joel</TD></TR></TABLE>

got a website for this Kirkey stuff? kirkracing.com? do they ship padding?

What about the radio wiring question? I rode with a couple of instructors at Expo 3 and most didn't have radios, but didn't have exposed wires either.

 

http://www.kirkeyracing.com/hrollbar.html

you can buy it from OG Racing and lots of other places too.

joel


Modified by JoelG at 7:49 AM 10/28/2003

 

Wiring? Make sure they are dead (pull fuse, whatever) and tape them up. Most likely, nobody will say anything, but better safe than sorry.

 

Radio removal = weight savings I guess? I'd rather have some tunes for the drive to the track...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JoelG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.kirkeyracing.com/hrollbar.html

Modified by JoelG at 7:49 AM 10/28/2003</TD></TR></TABLE>

What size 7/8 - 1.5" or 1.75"? Is says $14.95, but how long does 14.95 last? How many $14.95s do you need?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RealTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What size 7/8 - 1.5" or 1.75"? Is says $14.95, but how long does 14.95 last? How many $14.95s do you need? </TD></TR></TABLE>

You will have to measure your roll bar. Some are 1.5x.120. and others are 1.75x.095. The price is per 3 foot section. I'd suggest you do the main hoop from shoulder hight up all the way across and down the other side to shoulder hight and the main diagonal from the main hoop down to the harness bar. Just guessing, but for any honda that would probably take 3 pieces.

joel

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JoelG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You will have to measure your roll bar. Some are 1.5x.120. and others are 1.75x.095. The price is per 3 foot section.

joel</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's a basic 4 pt Kirk Racing Roll Bar if that helps....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RealTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It's a basic 4 pt Kirk Racing Roll Bar if that helps....</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think that makes the main roll bar hoop 1.75". You'll only need one 3' piece for the upper main hoop behind your head (and a second piece for a passenger if you have one). There's nothing else on a roll bar that your head can contact. You may wish to cut that 3' piece into a 2' and a 1' and run the 1' down the top, driver's side of the main hoop just in case.

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18CJDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> </TD></TR></TABLE>

sup james, haven't sold your hunker yet?

 

To answer your basic questions-NO you do not need a 2-way radio. Very nice to have at BeaveRun or anywhere else. Yes, I use one. Any wiring is to be tied down neatly. Our radio cables are tie wrapped to several places including the main harness. Exposed sharp metal edges should be covered.
I will agree with others about the rollbar padding. You can buy it from Summit in SFI 45.1 for $15/stick in one of 3 thicknesses-use the 1" on every surface that is real close to your head. I used 3/4" on the door bars and down tube of the cage.
If you are preparing the car to run in a specific organizations events-get the rulebook. Both SCCA and NASA require certain equipment to road race competitively.
If all you are doing is HPDE, then you can use what has been suggested for padding. A window net is generally not required. A helmet with an SA2000 sticker is preferred but an SA95 is OK

Good luck and make sure the lug nuts are properly torqued at Sebring.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jc836 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good luck and make sure the lug nuts are properly torqued at Sebring.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is definitely true. I have always had a problem with lugnuts coming loose on the first session so matter how i torqued them. Torqued them all to 40 and then to 85-90 and came somewhat loose and have also just torqued them to 85-90 right off the bat and still loosy loose. You might not have a problem. Throughout the day the lugs weren't loose except for after that first session.

marc - i suggest taping up those wires somehow. I doubt they will be a stickler for the rollbar padding but it is a good idea and the stuff isn't that expensive.

want any reccomendations for an instructor? I could give you a few and tell you who to e-mail if you are already signed up.

let me co-drive I'll pay half your costs

You in the novice group for this first event with Chin?

Mike

 

Get 3 or 4 of these:
SFI 45.1 APPROVED 1 1/2 - 1 7/8" DIA. (in whatever color).