Free mod, intake manifold coolant bypass for F series(pic inside)
Utimate goal: bypass(reroute) the hot coolant away from the intake manifold so it will run cooler
pro: it's free
con: dont do this if you see snow or extreme heat everyday.
the stuff: you need a brass fitting that connect the coolant line, get the right size, not too big(would fit) or too small(increase pressure in the cooling system), i got mine in autozone, 1.99 buck.
or you can just reuse the stock metal fitting if you have got an aftermarket intake.
again my car is f23a4(aka 6th gen four banger), it share very much alot of stuff with the previous f22 so here my write up.
step 1) make sure the car is' cold, because you'll be sticking you hand in there. remove the intake or stock piece to gain access room to the coolant line right below it.
step 2) it will reveal a coolant inlet and the coolant outlet in the intake manifold, as well as the coolant lines both going in and out of the mani.
step3) have a rug handy, remove the clip/champ that holding down both side of the coolant inlet and outlet, let the coolant drain for few min.(make sure dont let animal or your little brother drink it, two teaspoon is all it takes to put some permanent hole in the human brain)
step4) reconnect the coolant line with the brass fitting and tighten the clamps
step5) you gonna need to cover the inlet and outlet male fitting with something, to prevent dust, dirt or whatever to go into the water passage inside, i use a piece of silicone(stock line from somewhere
), duct tape if you are ghetto, dont worry about sucking it, coz there's no pressure or vaccum source.
step6) double check and see if everything's in right order, nice and tight.
step7)fire up the car, monitor for leak while the intake it's off(because you just cant see it if it's on the car), if there's no leak put the intake tube or stock rubber piece back on, check the coolant line next time you at the gas station, remember it's a pressureized system.
here a real life picture of it on my f23a4

and here a diagram i painted

legend:
number one=intake manifold coolant inlet
number two=intake manifold coolant outlet
number three=coolant hose/line out(RETURN)
number four=coolant hose/line in(SUPPLY)
here a quick note for the lazy people
connect 3 and 4 with a brass fitting(availble at autozone, pep boy,etc)
cover 1 and 2 from dust, dirt, etc
iam7head
pro: it's free
con: dont do this if you see snow or extreme heat everyday.
the stuff: you need a brass fitting that connect the coolant line, get the right size, not too big(would fit) or too small(increase pressure in the cooling system), i got mine in autozone, 1.99 buck.
or you can just reuse the stock metal fitting if you have got an aftermarket intake.
again my car is f23a4(aka 6th gen four banger), it share very much alot of stuff with the previous f22 so here my write up.
step 1) make sure the car is' cold, because you'll be sticking you hand in there. remove the intake or stock piece to gain access room to the coolant line right below it.
step 2) it will reveal a coolant inlet and the coolant outlet in the intake manifold, as well as the coolant lines both going in and out of the mani.
step3) have a rug handy, remove the clip/champ that holding down both side of the coolant inlet and outlet, let the coolant drain for few min.(make sure dont let animal or your little brother drink it, two teaspoon is all it takes to put some permanent hole in the human brain)
step4) reconnect the coolant line with the brass fitting and tighten the clamps
step5) you gonna need to cover the inlet and outlet male fitting with something, to prevent dust, dirt or whatever to go into the water passage inside, i use a piece of silicone(stock line from somewhere
), duct tape if you are ghetto, dont worry about sucking it, coz there's no pressure or vaccum source.step6) double check and see if everything's in right order, nice and tight.
step7)fire up the car, monitor for leak while the intake it's off(because you just cant see it if it's on the car), if there's no leak put the intake tube or stock rubber piece back on, check the coolant line next time you at the gas station, remember it's a pressureized system.
here a real life picture of it on my f23a4

and here a diagram i painted

legend:
number one=intake manifold coolant inlet
number two=intake manifold coolant outlet
number three=coolant hose/line out(RETURN)
number four=coolant hose/line in(SUPPLY)
here a quick note for the lazy people
connect 3 and 4 with a brass fitting(availble at autozone, pep boy,etc)
cover 1 and 2 from dust, dirt, etc
iam7head
Thanks for the write-up, iam7head.
Benefits I guess is the air goes in the engine cooler?
And the downside during winter is the air enters the engine too cold and is hard to fire up?
Benefits I guess is the air goes in the engine cooler?
And the downside during winter is the air enters the engine too cold and is hard to fire up?
Good write up.
I didn't notice any problems at all in the winter when I did this, or when I bypassed the idle control valve on the back of the plenum. It gets pretty cold in MD but not below 0 very often.
I didn't notice any problems at all in the winter when I did this, or when I bypassed the idle control valve on the back of the plenum. It gets pretty cold in MD but not below 0 very often.
I live in Texas, where the weather changes like crazy ("If you don't like the weather in Texas, wait 5 minutes."). Will these be a problem with the extreme heat and weather changes in texas? Thanks.
Nick
Nick
my experience says that no, you will not have any problems, but I don't get Texas heat here either. This is such an easy DIY, you should just go ahead and do it. if you notice any problems, you can always change it back
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by newaccordguy2003 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">great write up. what kind of power gains did u notice with this? </TD></TR></TABLE>
my butt dyno saying yay, i'll take some reading with my brand new snap-on infra-red heat gun when i'm at the shop
my butt dyno saying yay, i'll take some reading with my brand new snap-on infra-red heat gun when i'm at the shop
Nice write-up J. Your an asset to this forum.
I like this part - heh
here a quick note for the lazy people
connect 3 and 4 with a brass fitting(availble at autozone, pep boy,etc)
cover 1 and 2 from dust, dirt, etc
I like this part - heh
here a quick note for the lazy people
connect 3 and 4 with a brass fitting(availble at autozone, pep boy,etc)
cover 1 and 2 from dust, dirt, etc
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iam7head »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

</TD></TR></TABLE>
omfg!!! that is the best rendering of anything i have ever seen!

</TD></TR></TABLE>
omfg!!! that is the best rendering of anything i have ever seen!
wow, nice rendering ;o). Good write up of a very simple mod...i recommend it highly to everyone
....it wouldn't even be there if it wasn't for early morning cold start ups...and it just makes that easier, I'm suprised that manufacturers don't have some kind of bypass on that yet. So when the motor is fully warmed up it'd reroute it on it's own.
- Nathan
....it wouldn't even be there if it wasn't for early morning cold start ups...and it just makes that easier, I'm suprised that manufacturers don't have some kind of bypass on that yet. So when the motor is fully warmed up it'd reroute it on it's own.- Nathan

You can also buy some hose and connect the outlet of 3 the the outlet of 4 together. And also connect 1 and 2 outlets together. 2 hoses... 1-2 hose about 8 inches long and 3-4 hose about a foot or so long.
might be a good way to prevent leaks.
How bout a hybrid: Using the brass fiting to connect 3 & 4 AND a separate hose for 1-2.
This would preserve the OE Honda hose for 3-4. Use a trash hose (from misc garage junk) for 1-2 since nothing is passing thru nor is pressurized. Basically, your just keeping it clean...and minimizing the coolant mess from pulling a bunch of hoses.
Modified by RotaryBzzzz at 1:34 AM 10/28/2003
How bout a hybrid: Using the brass fiting to connect 3 & 4 AND a separate hose for 1-2.
This would preserve the OE Honda hose for 3-4. Use a trash hose (from misc garage junk) for 1-2 since nothing is passing thru nor is pressurized. Basically, your just keeping it clean...and minimizing the coolant mess from pulling a bunch of hoses.
Modified by RotaryBzzzz at 1:34 AM 10/28/2003
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92Lx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow, nice rendering ;o). Good write up of a very simple mod...i recommend it highly to everyone
....it wouldn't even be there if it wasn't for early morning cold start ups...and it just makes that easier, I'm suprised that manufacturers don't have some kind of bypass on that yet. So when the motor is fully warmed up it'd reroute it on it's own.
- Nathan</TD></TR></TABLE>
good question, someone im me the same question last night, perhaps budget and pricing i guess, well, the next diy mod I have in mind is a trottle body in the exhasust
....it wouldn't even be there if it wasn't for early morning cold start ups...and it just makes that easier, I'm suprised that manufacturers don't have some kind of bypass on that yet. So when the motor is fully warmed up it'd reroute it on it's own.- Nathan</TD></TR></TABLE>
good question, someone im me the same question last night, perhaps budget and pricing i guess, well, the next diy mod I have in mind is a trottle body in the exhasust
The thing I always thought would be interesting would be some kind of throttle body cooler. Some kind of protected air-duct that would constantly pass cooler air over the TB cooling it (like an intake scoop?). Or some way you could route your a/c to blow ice-cold air over it.
For instance: let's say your staging for a drag race and your just a modified street car. Your not an allout gutted racer w/ no A/C. While you idling, you have your A/C going with a duct routed that is blowing chilled air onto the TB+intake piping bringing the passing air temps down. Then, when it's your turn to race -> turn off the A/C (parasitic drag is gone) + now you have a chilled TB + intake piping that is creating a denser intake charge. How much denser? Who knows!! ...but that would be sure cool tho.
Esp since the TB will get warm (hot) no matter what (w/ thermal seepage). What do you guys think?
For instance: let's say your staging for a drag race and your just a modified street car. Your not an allout gutted racer w/ no A/C. While you idling, you have your A/C going with a duct routed that is blowing chilled air onto the TB+intake piping bringing the passing air temps down. Then, when it's your turn to race -> turn off the A/C (parasitic drag is gone) + now you have a chilled TB + intake piping that is creating a denser intake charge. How much denser? Who knows!! ...but that would be sure cool tho.
Esp since the TB will get warm (hot) no matter what (w/ thermal seepage). What do you guys think?
AWESOME post, this is how DIY mods should be set up, you rock da house iam7head.....
you get my vote for president
you get my vote for president
Dont forget to reset ur ecm after all that trouble, or ur idles gonna get quite jumpy
well thats what happen to mines atleast
well thats what happen to mines atleast
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mike813 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dont forget to reset ur ecm after all that trouble, or ur idles gonna get quite jumpy
well thats what happen to mines atleast
</TD></TR></TABLE>
F23 owners don't have to worry about doing that.
well thats what happen to mines atleast
</TD></TR></TABLE>F23 owners don't have to worry about doing that.
did the free mod earlier to a f22b, idles going nuts now, any clue on how to fix the problem? needles bouncing up and down at park, and at drive idles up to 1,, resetted the ecm, what else can it be? thanks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mike813 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did the free mod earlier to a f22b, idles going nuts now, any clue on how to fix the problem? needles bouncing up and down at park, and at drive idles up to 1,, resetted the ecm, what else can it be? thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
wandering idle is due to the bypass...
it is debateable whether or not the mod is useful if you ask me...
wandering idle is due to the bypass...
it is debateable whether or not the mod is useful if you ask me...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RotaryBzzzz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The thing I always thought would be interesting would be some kind of throttle body cooler. Some kind of protected air-duct that would constantly pass cooler air over the TB cooling it (like an intake scoop?). Or some way you could route your a/c to blow ice-cold air over it.
For instance: let's say your staging for a drag race and your just a modified street car. Your not an allout gutted racer w/ no A/C. While you idling, you have your A/C going with a duct routed that is blowing chilled air onto the TB+intake piping bringing the passing air temps down. Then, when it's your turn to race -> turn off the A/C (parasitic drag is gone) + now you have a chilled TB + intake piping that is creating a denser intake charge. How much denser? Who knows!! ...but that would be sure cool tho.
Esp since the TB will get warm (hot) no matter what (w/ thermal seepage). What do you guys think? </TD></TR></TABLE>
ever heard of the hondata intake manifold gasket?? i doubt one is made for the F series though.
For instance: let's say your staging for a drag race and your just a modified street car. Your not an allout gutted racer w/ no A/C. While you idling, you have your A/C going with a duct routed that is blowing chilled air onto the TB+intake piping bringing the passing air temps down. Then, when it's your turn to race -> turn off the A/C (parasitic drag is gone) + now you have a chilled TB + intake piping that is creating a denser intake charge. How much denser? Who knows!! ...but that would be sure cool tho.
Esp since the TB will get warm (hot) no matter what (w/ thermal seepage). What do you guys think? </TD></TR></TABLE>
ever heard of the hondata intake manifold gasket?? i doubt one is made for the F series though.


