Well i'm going to go check out that b20 w/ GSR tranny swap this guy is selling. anything specific i should look for? it's already out of the car...

besides the obvious

 

if it's rebuilt and if so does he have any reciets for the parts well reciets for any part would be nice to have

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tron &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if it's rebuilt and if so does he have any receipts for the parts well receipts for any part would be nice to have </TD></TR></TABLE>

no it's not rebuilt

40k on the motor, about 60k on the tranny. it's all together.
receipts are a good idea.

anything i should/can look for visually?

 

wear and tear on wires, timing belt, you can ask him if you can look at the tranny if thats ok with him i wouldn't see why it would be a problem you are buying it from him ask him if you can take off the valve cover soo you can inspect that area

 

thanks tron but what should i "look" for at the tranny? and after taking off the valve cover what should i look for in there?

thanks

 

morning bump *yawn*

 

Check around all the gaskets for oil leaks. Check the oil level. Make sure there is no coolant in the oil. Check the VIN, you don't want a stolen motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Witty &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check around all the gaskets for oil leaks. Check the oil level. Make sure there is no coolant in the oil. Check the VIN, you don't want a stolen motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

it's a JDM b20b (the USDM is weaksauce anyways) so no VIN...

i'm pretty sure the fluids have been drained but i'll be sure to check. it's only been out of the last civic it was in for less than a month.

keep the advice coming!

 

some motor's may look all good but my mechanic told me to check for rust..... obviously not allot of rust ... he told me that if u see minimum amount of rust on parts of the motor that should not be there it means the motor is no good..... he helped me as i was going to throw in a H23 motor but it was no good.

 

-Look for dirt. Clean engines are usually well taken care of.
-Check the spark plugs and see how they look. (if lean or rich or just normal)
-Drain a little oil out to see how it looks (if there is any in there)
-Ask if the transmission shifts good at all rpm's.
-Take valve cover off and make sure it looks clean under there (someone said this already)
-Feel up the timing belt


That's where I would start...

 

i talked to the guy selling it today for a bit on the phone... he says he wants 1600 for the swap but he also told me it was missing some items:

no clutch/pressure plate but still has the GSR tranny's flywheel...

needs a TB gasket... he says that a GSR TB is attached to the LS intake manifold but needs a gasket...

also needs alt belt

besides those things it's ready to go. however i was wondering if anyone had suggestion for a stock quality clutch and feel for a non OEM price? what about the pressure plate?

also i'm guessing the TB gasket i can get pretty cheap from a dealer?

the alt belt is a no brainer...

it's using a LS ecu which i guess is fine. everything is ready to go except the above mentioned. I'm thinking i'll offer him 1400 then maybe we can settle on 1500? i can't afford more than that now b/c i have to get the extra parts plus rent an engine hoist...

opinions are welcome!

 

Sounds like a good deal to me. I wouldn't run the LS ecu though. But if you can't run the CRV ecu then you probly have to. I've never had a B20 engine so I don't know for sure. But that extra displacement requires exta fuel.. and an LS ecu won't help there.

I'd get an ACT HDSS clutch kit for it. They're about 450$. If that's too much for you maybe you can look into a stock ITR clutch or a stock B20 clutch. ITR clutches are very good.

Everything else you mentioned is cheap. Don't forget to resurface the flywheel. That's usually around 15-30$..

 

Remember: rust on aluminum looks like white, powdery ****. Look hard, especially around gasketed areas and vacuum-holding objects.

 

Yeah...i'd say look at the belts, look for oil leaks all over (oil pan, head gasket, rear main, tranny, valve cover) and make sure it all looks good...and then again take the valve cover off and look at the valvetrain to make sure it doesnt look like *******. Also, as stated above, check the plugs as well

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sketch_hs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">. however i was wondering if anyone had suggestion for a stock quality clutch and feel for a non OEM price?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well if you need a clutch just to get it running. I've got a stock GSR clutch with pressure plate. It has 75,000miles on it. It came out of my engine when I had it swapped..I'd give it to you for 20 bucks. let me know if you need something to get you by. If not I'd get an aftermarket clutch.

Mike

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sledgehammer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well if you need a clutch just to get it running. I've got a stock GSR clutch with pressure plate. It has 75,000miles on it. It came out of my engine when I had it swapped..I'd give it to you for 20 bucks. let me know if you need something to get you by. If not I'd get an aftermarket clutch.

Mike</TD></TR></TABLE>

20 shipped? i think i'll take that!

does anyone know about using the LS ECU with the b20b? what ECU is best for the b20b? i'm not sure if the b20 ECU from the CRV can be used with it... i'm not sure. advice is welcome.