1989 Integra LS, Manual Transmission

Engine Light went on and car started sputtering. Car starts fine and idles fine. Shortly after placing it in gear and applying gas the engine light comes on and the engine starts sputtering - erratic RPMs, cannot drive the car smoothly - however, in neutral it seems to idle okay and it also seems to hold a steady RPM above idle speed.

What is most likely the problem???? What should I test for??

I did have the engine rebuilt less than 200 miles ago.

 

Check for codes.
There is a small blue plastic square piece with wires inserted into it underneath
your glove box under the dash. Pull this out and unplug the wire that is in there.
There will be a connector on the end of the wire with 4 rectangular spaces in it.
Get a paperclip and put one end into the top rectangle space on the left and the other end of it into the space on the top right.

Insert your ignition key into the ignition and turn it forward.
Your check engine light will now blink several times and repeat.
Count the flashes.
They work like this Long flash, Long flash, Long flash, short flash, short flash,
Would be the code for 32
3 long two short.
Then come on here and do a search for the code number that you got.
Post the code number and we'll try to figure out the problem.
http://www.c-speedracing.com/faq/05.php
Thanks

 

I guess that the symptoms do not provide enough information?

Anyhoo, I will check for codes tomorrow morning.

Does the 1989 Integra have that blue connector under the glovebox or is it a unit under the passenger seat?

 

My bad. Didn't notice it was a 1989.
Not sure about where the placement is or how to check cel on an 89.
Do a search or maybe someone else will be nice enough to post instructions here?

 

Okay, the LED is under the passenger seat.

I get codes 4 and 8 (Crank angle sensor and TDC Position (crank angle)). I know the TDC and CYL sensors are located in the distributer.

Well, I am not sure of the problem, but I am looking for resolved it. Any advice - especially based on the symptoms???

 

You might want to look for broken or flaky wiring at the distributor. Maybe idling or revving in neutral are OK because the engine isn't rocking & pulling on the wires?

 

I just checked in daylight and the wires seem intact. I wanted to disconnect the connecter to make a measurement, but I cannot get them to separate!! If the car is in neutral (long enough) at idle, then the engine light comes on as well.

Why would the RPMs seem to be normal in neutral, but not under load???? What does this point to?

 

I am not able to disconnect the connector, thus I cannot take measurements.

However, does all point to failed sensors that are located in the distributor - and thus I need a new distributor?

 

Idle in neutral, wiggle the wiring connectors. Or grab the valve cover & shake the engine (don't burn your hands). I just like to rule out the possibility of flaky wiring first, before I spend big bucks on parts. The symptoms & the CEL codes could be either bad wiring or bad sensors.

The connectors have a little clip/lever that you have to press to release them.

I remember someone saying you can't buy the sensors, you have to buy the whole distributor. Don't take my word for it, ask your parts place...

 

Thanks for your input.

Unfortunately the engine runs smoothly in neutral, so I can't tell anything by wiggling wires. The wires seems fine near the distributer - but I don't know about the other ends of each wire.

It seems that this connecter has a little clip on each side and one in the middle. However, I have been prying and pushing and pulling - and I simply cannot get the connector to pull apart. How frustrating! I don't want to break the wires.

 

I figured if it was loose wires, then you could get it to sputter & die by wiggling the wires while the engine is idling... If you wiggle them & it doesn't sputter, maybe that rules out loose wiring. That's all I meant.

Those connectors are a PITA. But I've always been able to get them apart without explosives, so I'm not sure what else to suggest.

 

As for that connector, darn! Do you just pull it off gently with your hands or is a tool needed? I have been trying to push both ends it with a screwdriver, but it is hard to pull at the same time. Is it held on with 2 or 3 little locks?? Where do you squeeze??!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by michaelpr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As for that connector, darn!...</TD></TR></TABLE>Well, I usually have to use stronger words than that...

It's been awhile since I had to do THAT connector, but usually there's only one lever you have to press & hold to release the latch. But they're still difficult to pull apart, usually from corrosion. I've been able to get them apart by rocking & pulling - guess I've been lucky.

 

If these sensors were bad, wouldn't that create a very erratic idle as well?

 

The garage that did my engine rebuilding told me that they didn't touch the distributor. They just took it off and put it to the side. Thus, they are not claiming any responsibility. I am not quite so sure yet if my sudden problem is independent from the motor rebuild.

Any theories?

Also, why isn't my RPM at idle or in neutral so relatively steady? However, the engine light does come on after just idling for about 20 seconds. When I put the car in gear and accelerate - the RPMs are 95% steady, but with big hiccups. I really cannot drive the car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by michaelpr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If these sensors were bad, wouldn't that create a very erratic idle as well?</TD></TR></TABLE>That's why I suspected a flaky connection in the wiring harness. When it idles the engine sits pretty still, when you drive it moves around some.

 

What is the usual life of a distributor? The car has 148,000 miles. The mechanic of the engine rebuild did mention that the distributor shaft was a little worn.

Has anyone else experienced these sensors going out?

 

New Information

I got the connector off. I checked the resistances of the sensors iin the distributor and all is fine according to my manual.

I start the car and after 15 seconds in idle I get the engine light - it is code 8 - TDC position. I put the car in gear and it is jumpy. The codes are now 4 (Crank Angle Sensor) and 8. The car seems to go in reverse without stuttering - at least slowly.

What do I do next???? I did the wiggling of wires with no noticable affect.

Help!

 

could be the ecu. My g/f's car had the same problems, we ended up replacing the ecu and now the car is mint. Its a PG7 ecu FYI.

 

At $850 - I hope it is not that!!!!!

 

My ECU seems to be working, since it is giving my codes.

What was the symptions of the car and the ECU when you had problems?

 

I'm relatively new to these Honda 4-bangers, but I will say a bad crank angle sensor can cause what you're seeing. (why are you trying so hard to blame it on something else?) As for why it idles smooth, it's possible that the ECU ignores the CAS while at idle (i.e. the closed loop is partially open at idle). It wouldn't be the first engine I've seen that works like this.

 

I am very happy to read that the car does indeed have the symptoms of bad crank angle sensor. I have been trying to prove that - but my measurements didn't confirm it. Of course, I want to resolve my problem soon. The more information I have, the better I can pinpoint what needs to be fixed or changed. Also, I must worry about towing it to the right place. However, perhaps I can do the distributor where the car is now!

 

If distributor,

$329 new at dealer or $229 at Autozone (or other places) for a rebuilt. Is a rebuilt distributor almost like new???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by michaelpr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If distributor,

$329 new at dealer or $229 at Autozone (or other places) for a rebuilt. Is a rebuilt distributor almost like new???</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, get the new one. I never trust rebuilt components. You never know what got replaced and what has 200,000 miles of wear on it when you buy rebuilt crap. Sometimes you get lucky. More often, you do not.