Well the R has accumulated 80,000mi in the past 2.5 years of ownership and could use a rebuild sometime in the near future. Good compression numbers, but alot of oil blow bye. I really want to try my hand at rebuilding my first engine, but I'm not sure if my B18C5 is the one I want to practice on.

If I do decide to do it, I still plan on sending the block off for the machine work. With the money saved I might go ahead and have it sleeved for some 84.5mm pistons. I would also send off the rotating assembly as well to have it balanced. My main job would just be assembly.

I plan on purchasing a beater car as well so down time will not be an issue. I will be able to take my time.

I'm no mechanic but I've done all of my major mods (cams, flywheel), pulled several trannies including an MR2 along with replacing the turbo and such on it. If have a good book to guide me I feel pretty content with tackling anything as long as I have the proper tools and a resource such as Honda-Tech for help.

 

Im thinking about the same thing, but need to check a few other things to see what exactly needs to be done. Like many others, I have oil consumption problems after my motor was built 10,000 miles ago. I think my oil rings might be shot, but Im hoping its just my valve seals. If I have to take it apart, I would like to do the labor myself and send the parts out to the machine shops. If you have the tools, and a good idea about the motor and its parts, then might as well give it a shot. At the very least you can take it apart. Putting it back together is probably the harder part.

 

do it, you'll be happy you did. It is not hard, just time consuming.

Pay attention to the details, and you can do it just as well as anyone else can.

Kyle

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2K_TEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do it, you'll be happy you did. It is not hard, just time consuming.

Pay attention to the details, and you can do it just as well as anyone else can.

Kyle</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's kinda what I was thinking. If I knew I would be rushing to get it done during a weekend it would be a different story, but I plan on having a beater by then so I could spend as much time on it as I want to make sure things are perfect.

 

I wouldn't do either.

As long as the numbers are good, and she's running strong, leave her alone.

Jason-
who thought about it once, but definitely understands that the Honda engineers have things a little more figured out than he does.

 

If shes still running strong keep feeding her oil.

 

yeah....I kind of agree with the old..."If it aint broke don't fix it" idea....but it's always nice to try something new.

Engine building/assembly is very easy.

BUT, make sure you got to a good machine shop who gets the clearaances to spec. I've seen some people run 83mm pistons in a 84.5 mm bore!!!!!! Talk about pistons slap and blow by!!!

Go through the right procedures....plastigauge, etc etc and you'll be fine. I built my first engine at 16, and it's still running great 4 years later

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sackdz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If shes still running strong keep feeding her oil.</TD></TR></TABLE>

1. The oil isn't helping my performance. For some reason I don't think it burns as well as gas .

2. I auto-x the car (well haven't for a while) and plan on doing some road course events in the future. Something about oil starvation on the track just doesn't appeal to me, nor does being stranded 8hrs from home when it happens.

 

1) Doubt its hurting it much either

2) Keep it full.

 

I would only suggest doing your own rebuild if you have the luxury of time (or a second car).

Putting an engine together isn't particularly difficult, but it does require patience and attention to detail. And there are always little things that pop up and make the project take longer than you expect.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sackdz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1) Doubt its hurting it much either

2) Keep it full. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well I burn more than a quart every 1,000mi of highway driving so keeping it full is already an issue. I could see the car easily burning off a dangerous amount with a couple of full laps under load. By the time I'm ready to rebuil it anyway the mileage will probably be towards the 100k mark and oil rings don't fix themselves.

Like I said ealier I would have a second car. Time would not be an issue.

 

rebuild -
DIY -
sleeving -
cost of rebuild is really pretty big if you start to upgrade things along the way... sleeved to 84mm+ requires aftermrket pistons which requires aftermarket rods.
shipping your block and rotating assembly out for work may be a big cost too.

sounds like you are at the point of mechanical skill where this rebuild is your next step anyhow, so have fun and read up on some Tech! I rebuilt my motor and if there is anything I learned and shopuld pass on, it's
1) that you ALWAYS hone your cylinder walls when installing new rings.
2) when getting frustrated with engine components 'not' going together, use a smaller hammer not bigger, or take a break and relax.
3) take your time and follow torque specs!
4) these engines are built by mortal men, so you can do it too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by owen_the_soyboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">rebuild -
DIY -
sleeving -
cost of rebuild is really pretty big if you start to upgrade things along the way... sleeved to 84mm+ requires aftermrket pistons which requires aftermarket rods.
shipping your block and rotating assembly out for work may be a big cost too.

sounds like you are at the point of mechanical skill where this rebuild is your next step anyhow, so have fun and read up on some Tech! I rebuilt my motor and if there is anything I learned and shopuld pass on, it's
1) that you ALWAYS hone your cylinder walls when installing new rings.
2) when getting frustrated with engine components 'not' going together, use a smaller hammer not bigger, or take a break and relax.
3) take your time and follow torque specs!
4) these engines are built by mortal men, so you can do it too.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well sleeving it or not will be considered when the time comes, but here's my general estimate.

RS sleeved block bored and honed to 84.5mm- $950
Probe pistons(or Eagle, whatever I decide at the time)- $300
Wiesco pistons w/rings- $480
Bottom end gaskets and bearings- $200
Balanced assembly-$160
Shipping- $100

Total- $2190
without sleeves-$1390
stock rods and OEM pistons (JDM ITR or the like)- $900

 

might be a stupid question, but why not a DART block instead?

 

If you got the tools ... You can probly get everything you need to know of honda tech

My buddy just rebuilt one, took him a few months. He rebuilt everything and the thing blew a rod 5 min after he put it back in the car

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Philly_NBP_R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">might be a stupid question, but why not a DART block instead?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Because it does not have a VIN Number on it. I don`t know about you guys, but in SloCal that could be a huge headache in a street car if you get rolled.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Philly_NBP_R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">might be a stupid question, but why not a DART block instead?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Because it costs $2000 for the bare block alone vs $800 to get mine sleeved. I'm sure the dart block is better in every shape and form, but I'm not going to be pushing any hp boundaries so I should be fine.

 

did you try an oil cooler before you tear it all up and rebuild?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowassR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
My buddy just rebuilt one, took him a few months. He rebuilt everything and the thing blew a rod 5 min after he put it back in the car </TD></TR></TABLE>

Something like this is what keeps me from doing serious work on my motor. If I did work on my motor, and blew it 5 min after putting it back together, I think Id hang myself because extra money is hard to come by. But if you have the money, time, and tools, I still dont see why not giving it a shot. HT is a great resource, helms, and other sites can probably get you through it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ActiveAero &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That's kinda what I was thinking. If I knew I would be rushing to get it done during a weekend it would be a different story, but I plan on having a beater by then so I could spend as much time on it as I want to make sure things are perfect.</TD></TR></TABLE>

And if you need something that Kyle/wiredspeed sells or P1 auto sells, support them. They are both Expo 4 Sponsors.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris N &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you try an oil cooler before you tear it all up and rebuild?</TD></TR></TABLE>

As in to stop my oil burning under load? I don't see what you are trying to say.

Think I might have to tackle my tranny while everything is apart as well. It makes a rock rolling in a can sound while in neutral, press the pedal and it goes away . Think its one of my transmission shaft bearings .

 

damn - didn't know Dart blocks were so much $$$

well, anyway - good luck - go and DIY - just do as much research ahead of time as you can...

 

good luck with your "freak" ITR.

 

hmm.. i know i had blowby cause smoke was coming out from valve cover/and breather filter plus 120 compression on #3 cyl..

you have same thing going on? are you sure its not valve seals?

for the rebuild, i woudln't practise on a block that i plan to push.. it may be wise to get some cheap civic block and learn from errors on that.

 

when you are done building your motor and are going to start it for the first time:

1. triple check all your fluid levels.
2. crank the motor over a few times (wihtout fuel or spark, or both) before you start it up for good.

I get a call at least once a month from someone who forgot to do one of the two above and has to replace parts and is out a ton of time.

Don't rush it