Helms is still out of ITR manuals

Need to buy the right socket so I can pull my rotors.

If anyone knows the re-torque spec too, I'd appreciate it.

Someone please help!

 

You don't need to pull the axle to pull the rotors off.

But the Axle nut is 32mm.

 

I thought it should not be necessary to remove the nut, but it looks like it overlaps the center of the rotor. Hmmm.

I cannot get the two phillips rotor screws out, despite penetrant and breaking two impact driver bits. I was thinking the rotor was locked on by the nut, jamming the screws.

I guess it's off to the store for more bits, penetrant, and maybe time to break out the torch!

 

Integra's and Civic's don't require the removal of the hub to replace the rotors. Accord's do. Prelude's probably do as well.

Use an impact screwdriver on the rotor retaining screws or an impact gun with an adapter to carry a #2 or #3 phillips screwdriver bit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Use an impact screwdriver on the rotor retaining screws or an impact gun with an adapter to carry a #2 or #3 phillips screwdriver bit.</TD></TR></TABLE>

or when that fails, use a drill and drill out the screws with a large drill bit. search the archives as there have been some really good threads on removing rotors.

good luck

 

what's the spline of itr axles? is it the same as civic si's? (just curious)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Integra's and Civic's don't require the removal of the hub to replace the rotors. Accord's do. Prelude's probably do as well.

Use an impact screwdriver on the rotor retaining screws or an impact gun with an adapter to carry a #2 or #3 phillips screwdriver bit.</TD></TR></TABLE>

prelude= 36mm. trying taking those off. what a horror story. i broke my breaker bar trying. 1/2"

 

Gen 1 Legend = 36MM too. Broke my breaker bar on Saturday trying to get that thing off.

Used the excuse to go out and get a 240 ft/tq cordless Milwaukee Impact Driver.

 

I'm pretty sure the front axle nut on the integra is 32mm.

 

lol. nice. i feel your pain. i used an 18" 1/2" drive breaker bar. a 3' pipe and all it did was bend the pipe and break the breaker bar.

i was going to buy the snap on. i might have to invest in one or the other.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Batoutahell &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm pretty sure the front axle nut on the integra is 32mm.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If I remember right, that's correct.

I used a 3/4" breaker bar from work and loosened the nut by leaving the car on the ground, placing the socket w/ breaker bar on the nut positioned so I could use my hydralic jack to lift the the breaker bar and apply enough pressure to break that nut loose. Worked like a charm w/o the blue nut hassles.

but again, you don't need to remove that axle nut to replace your rotors. only need to remove the 2 screws that hold the rotor to the hub.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ill &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I cannot get the two phillips rotor screws out, despite penetrant and breaking two impact driver bits. </TD></TR></TABLE>

make sure you are using the impact driver correctly. sounds like you may be tightening them, not loosening them. just a thought, as i have seen people (professional mechanics) do this.

 

drill out the screws with a 3/8" bit.

never look back.... I hate those damn things. Cordless impact ownz though... Harbor Freight - 19.2V, 220ft-lbs - $120

 

While talking about hubs ect.
I am having a hard time taking off the drivers side hub. All the joints come out fine, just seems the drive shaft is seized on. I spoke to ...... and he suggested a big hammer, I am a little nervous of doing that though, I used half a can of WD40 but no luck, any suggestions. BTW the passenger just slipped off

 

/\/\/\ you can use a BFH but be very careful to not damage the threads on the end of the axle otherwise you can strip the threads on the axle nut and be out a bit more $$$ in the end.

penetrating oil / wd40 on the axle end and a lot of repeated tapping with a "SFH" might be best.

 

If you don't want to drill out the screws, you can get them out with a small pointed punch and a hammer. Just put the point of the punch on the flat part of the countersunk screw and hammer away in the direction to rotate the screw, and make sure the punch is digging into the screw. You can do this at a few points around the screw, and if you are lucky, they will start to rotate and come out. II did this at the track once after I cracked a rotor and it saved my day. The screws are of course junk after this operation, but you can get new ones if you want that factory look. Otherwise, as RJ says, just drill them out.

 

If you insist on putting new ones in... antiseize is your friend.

 

previous owner, or his mechanic, was nice enough to break off the tip of a phillips head screwdriver in the screw, making it impossible to drill. as you can see, had to drill next to it and into it, and punch it out.



this is a $25 solution to normal screws - it also conveniently fits my recently acquired 1/2inch impact wrench.

anyway, axle nut for civic/integra is 32mm, and a cheap 1/2inch socket can be found at autozone - the sears by me didn't stock 32mm - lucky for me, because i would have paid more than twice as much.

 

Thanks for all the tips everyone! I got the rotors off.

I had to drill tiny holes all around the head of the rotor screw, then cut between them with a chisel. Then I put bolts into the threaded holes in the rotor and pulled it off, snapping the rest of the head of the bolt off. Safety glasses own!

No axle nut removal was required. My hubs and rotor hats were just rusty, so you could not see where they came apart.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kkim &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I used a 3/4" breaker bar from work and loosened the nut by leaving the car on the ground, placing the socket w/ breaker bar on the nut positioned so I could use my hydralic jack to lift the the breaker bar and apply enough pressure to break that nut loose. Worked like a charm w/o the blue nut hassles. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That sounds like a good trick!