well i had a valve adjustment, and i decided to go ahead and have another leakdown performed since i never saw the numbers from the 1st. the guy said oh, your compression is good on the 1st go around.

cyl 1 10%
cyl 2 14%
cyl 3 15%
cyl 4 10%

the mechanic who performed the test this time around said since the motor is old its probably from carbon build up on the valves.

on another note i replaced the valve cover gasket again, the cam plug seal, and the VTEC solenoid gasket and i still have oil leaking from that side of the engine, and i sill can't find the leak, there is a brand new distributor on too, so i know its not comming from there.

all this and the car still runs 14.90's all day

 

Even though u have a NEW distributor, do u have a NEW O-ring to go with it? If it did come with it, then ive *heard* of people's head gasket leaking from that side. Yes i know ppl usually associate head gasket with coolant burning but like i said i *heard* it CAN leak oil where u are talking about. Did u torque that VTEC solenoid assembly down properly, i forget the actual spec but the ft lb (or inches) aint much.

 

we finaly decided to attempt to look for the leak with the motor running, and sure enough the mechanic accidentaly pinched the new sloenoid gasket. so he replaced it again, and so far so good.

what i can't figure out now is what is causing my ignitors to go bad. i have replaced the ignitor once already in the brand new distributor. now my tach is getting jumpy both stock and aftermarket. and its starting to get a high end miss once again. helllllllllp.

 

ive gone threw 2 coils my self .. i finally used the grease that goes inside the coil and havent had a problem since (knock on wood)

 

we found the root of the problem. the stock tach is grounding out, and is killing the ignitor. i have been told this is a common problem in 4th gen Si's

 

So the stock tach is grounding out eh? Where exactly in the circuit or part of the car does this "typically" occur?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatchB17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So the stock tach is grounding out eh? Where exactly in the circuit or part of the car does this "typically" occur?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I want to know this also. I'm on my second ignitor and second coil.

 

[QUOTE=fourthgenhatchB17 ][q]Where exactly in the circuit or part of the car does this "typically" occur?[/q]

i havent been told where in the tach, just that the stock tach is bad and needs to be replaced.
my stock tach starts to get a little nervous twitch when the ignitor starts to go, then it does the mexican hat dance. there is a blue wire attached to the ignitor inside the distributor. by disconecting this you will eliminate the problem. but lose your stock tach. if you have an auto meter like i do i hooked up my green tach signal wire to the same connector, and no more problems.

another problem that you rice classic may have is your voltage regulator may be putting out too much power. explore this avenue also
man i need a digital camera

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Huggy Bear &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

another problem that you rice classic may have is your voltage regulator may be putting out too much power. explore this avenue also
man i need a digital camera</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea you do. Where's my voltage regulator? Is it in the dizzy?

(sometimes I feel like a pro, but I'm ALWAYS still learning!)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Huggy Bear &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">[QUOTE=fourthgenhatchB17 ][q]Where exactly in the circuit or part of the car does this "typically" occur?[/q]

i havent been told where in the tach, just that the stock tach is bad and needs to be replaced.
my stock tach starts to get a little nervous twitch when the ignitor starts to go, then it does the mexican hat dance. there is a blue wire attached to the ignitor inside the distributor. by disconecting this you will eliminate the problem. but lose your stock tach. if you have an auto meter like i do i hooked up my green tach signal wire to the same connector, and no more problems.

another problem that you rice classic may have is your voltage regulator may be putting out too much power. explore this avenue also
man i need a digital camera</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have always heard that if the stock tach starts jumping around, then thats a sign that the ignitor is going bad. I never heard that the tach jumping around means its messing the ignitor up. I could be wrong but i have heard the jumping tach is a sign of a bad ignitor from others as well. Who told u about the tach thing?

Rice_classic - Your voltage regulator is inside the alternator. From what i can remember you can just replace the regulator but if u have drop the alt. out and disassemble it, you might as well just replace the entire alternator.

 

I think I'm gonna be doing that before the winter's over.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Huggy Bear &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i had a valve adjustment, and i decided to go ahead and have another leakdown performed since i never saw the numbers from the 1st. the guy said oh, your compression is good on the 1st go around.

cyl 1 10%
cyl 2 14%
cyl 3 15%
cyl 4 10%

the mechanic who performed the test this time around said since the motor is old its probably from carbon build up on the valves.

on another note i replaced the valve cover gasket again, the cam plug seal, and the VTEC solenoid gasket and i still have oil leaking from that side of the engine, and i sill can't find the leak, there is a brand new distributor on too, so i know its not comming from there.

all this and the car still runs 14.90's all day </TD></TR></TABLE>


From my experience, most b16 leak oil right next to the tranny. My b16 did not do this until I put synthetic oil in it and now it is leaking onto the tranny, right where the engine is stamped "b16a".

No more synthetic oil for me

 

As for the loss in the leak down, try some Sea FOam, you can buy it at any NAPA. It will help alot.

 

i have the same dizzy problem.....what ignitor will fit? can i just buy one for a crx or should i get one for a 90-91 integ ls?

 

explain what you mean by jumpy tach please, this sounds like my problem but I thought it was my timing that was off... i only get it when the car is idling... not when driving... but my rpm's go from like 2k down to 400 and the car almost dies and it just goes back and forth on idle.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sykotic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">explain what you mean by jumpy tach please, this sounds like my problem but I thought it was my timing that was off... i only get it when the car is idling... not when driving... but my rpm's go from like 2k down to 400 and the car almost dies and it just goes back and forth on idle.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It sounds like your idle air control valve (IACV) is bad. The jumpy tach that is associated with a bad ignitor usually doesnt give the true RPM reading from the motor. What im saying is when ur driving, the tach will jump up or go down like crazy but the engine's RPM does not. I would check the IACV as that is most likely the culprit, especially since it ONLY occurs at idle.

 

ya its a good idea to check all your ground connections and maybe make some more..check all the wires amd fuses..basically anything electrical

 

ok is there another name for an ignitor? just went to a parts store and looked like an idiot because there isnt anything named "ignitor" in ther computors.

any help
(sorry to thread jack.)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatchB17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I have always heard that if the stock tach starts jumping around, then thats a sign that the ignitor is going bad. I never heard that the tach jumping around means its messing the ignitor up. I could be wrong but i have heard the jumping tach is a sign of a bad ignitor from others as well. Who told u about the tach thing?
.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes i know that when the tach starts jumping around the ignition control module/ignitor is going bad, but also the tach is wired directly ti the ignitor and the tach ig grounding out the ignitor and causing to go bad.

but i disconnected the stock tach, and left my auto meter hooked up, and replaced the ignitor, and the problem dissapeared, this is the 3rd ignitor i replaced in the new distributor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sykotic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">explain what you mean by jumpy tach please, this sounds like my problem but I thought it was my timing that was off... i only get it when the car is idling... not when driving... but my rpm's go from like 2k down to 400 and the car almost dies and it just goes back and forth on idle.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i mean that when i go full throttle the tach is moving back and forth at a very rapid pace, like it was having a heart attack.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4inspeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok is there another name for an ignitor? just went to a parts store and looked like an idiot because there isnt anything named "ignitor" in ther computors.

any help
(sorry to thread jack.)</TD></TR></TABLE>

ignition control module