The silly season is approaching and the garage is calling... How much of a PITA is it to change the rear trailing arm bushings in a CRX?
Any snags to be watch out for?

Thanks,

 

You'll need a machine press to get a new one in there.
At least that's what I had to get done to have mine installed.

 

They are not that tough to do, rembember that you cannot remove the outer shell of the stock bushing the new bushing needs that shell . You can cut them out or like i do and I have done many, burn them out with your torch. it makes cleaning the shell easier and then lube it good with the grease supplied and press it in
Clean the mounting shaft and install it in the right direction
Good luck its a dirty job
WCS Motorsports
SCCA/ICSCC
ITA CRX Si #12

 

I used the more expensive Prothane ones.
You don't need to reuse anything from your old bushings.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Primo. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I used the more expensive Prothane ones.
You don't need to reuse anything from your old bushings.</TD></TR></TABLE>



I can't believe how cheap people get... the es bushing may be $20, but, the amount of work it requires to install it is insane. the hardest part of getting the prothane bushings installed was removing the parking brake cable (i removed the whole trailing arm).

 

there was a thread before suggesting not to use either the prothane or the ES..

But to only use OEM replacements or Mugen.

This was from the integra forum.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=649580

 

Any pictures of the mugen set anywhere? I work the crap out of my bushings!!
I have not wanted to use the poly because of the limitation it puts on the movement but the factory ones get ravaged...

 

I didn't find a pic..but I found a link..

http://kingmotorsports.com/product.asp?detail=1495

 

install easy:
http://texas.hybridgarage.com/viewtopic.php?t=960

 

Check this post https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=655579 for an Australian company with US distributers that makes a softer urethane bushing, and also has offset bushings available for other areas on the car. Sounds like they are a good compromise between stiffening and proper function, ie designed to eliminate the bind that is possible with stiffer urethane.

 

Thanks for the replies... greatly appreciated!

I was looking around and found these:
http://www.opmautosports.com/p....html

Thoughts?

 

Anybody tried to cast their own? You can get urethane of different durometers for 20 to 30 dollars, and it should be enough to do several sets. My friend bought some durometer 60 from mcmaster.com to repair some celica motor mounts a while back for like 25$.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anybody tried to cast their own? You can get urethane of different durometers for 20 to 30 dollars, and it should be enough to do several sets. My friend bought some durometer 60 from mcmaster.com to repair some celica motor mounts a while back for like 25$. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I did this for my buddies motor mounts when we put a B16 into his EG. I tried to just tape off one side of the motor mount, but the goo ended up leaking out. I figure that if you used a piece of saran wrap in addition to tape, this would not be a problem. Anyway, the finished product was pretty badass. The mounts are super stiff and didn't cost a lot either. I don't see a reason for the Hasport mounts now...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Outsane &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there was a thread before suggesting not to use either the prothane or the ES..

But to only use OEM replacements or Mugen.

This was from the integra forum.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=649580</TD></TR></TABLE>
it has good information, i just don't see a problem with my prothanes/urethane Trailing Arm bushings.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Driven &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
it has good information, i just don't see a problem with my prothanes/urethane Trailing Arm bushings.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

The prothane/ES bushings do not allow for proper articulation of the suspension. Jack the car up, remove the shock from the control arm and push the trailing arm up and down. You will quickly see that the range of motion is not confined to a single axis. The Prothane/ES bushings do not allow proper movement. Go with stock or Mugen....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jisu009 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The prothane/ES bushings do not allow for proper articulation of the suspension. Jack the car up, remove the shock from the control arm and push the trailing arm up and down. You will quickly see that the range of motion is not confined to a single axis. The Prothane/ES bushings do not allow proper movement. Go with stock or Mugen....</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have not experienced any issue with the prothane bushings.

I'll rephrase it in case you missed it the first two times...

after installing the prothane bushings, i have not experienced any detrimental handling characteristics that were not already inherent in the car.

 

My last car felt a bit squirly in the rear, and I had full ES bushings..

I can't say that it was the bushings for sure, since I did too many mods at once to notice what was causeing what..

I just thought I would spread the info..

 

I have had them(prothane) for 2 seasons now and have no complaints, except MAYBE the car is a little to stable in the corners can't seem to get enough oversteer, even with the 22mm rear sway, cept when rears tire are cold, then it's just stupid. At the time I purchased them I didn't know about the Mugen ones, this thread is getting a little tired, just get the Mugen's and be done with it. cuz wether their Mugen,Prothane,ES, or OEM I'm still kickin ***


Modified by sircrx5 at 1:51 PM 10/26/2003

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMDA9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I did this for my buddies motor mounts when we put a B16 into his EG. I tried to just tape off one side of the motor mount, but the goo ended up leaking out. I figure that if you used a piece of saran wrap in addition to tape, this would not be a problem. Anyway, the finished product was pretty badass. The mounts are super stiff and didn't cost a lot either. I don't see a reason for the Hasport mounts now...

</TD></TR></TABLE>

DIY's is badass...saving money while making a part that is worth while. Have you thought about making them for a little Ebay cash? I'm pretty sure someone will buy them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sircrx5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have had them(prothane) for 2 seasons now and have no complaints, except MAYBE the car is a little to stable in the corners can't seem to get enough oversteer, even with the 22mm rear sway, cept when rears tire are cold, then it's just stupid. At the time I purchased them I didn't know about the Mugen ones, this thread is getting a little tired, just get the Mugen's and be done with it. cuz wether their Mugen,Prothane,ES, or OEM I'm still kickin ***
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes you are kicking ***...bastard

 

hammer out , hammer in.

no need to drop the whole assembly either , drop the toe arms and the bushing bolts , remove old , insert new and bolt back up.

its that easy , 30 minutes tops.