do you guys think those cheap *** rear strut bars work...ive been wanting to buy a rear strut bar for my gsr...but now when i think about it, i dont really know what would make a strut bar better than another strut bar (rear)....can anyone let me know...im not really down to spend hella cash for a name brand...i just want somethin functional

 

i've heard the "type-r" ones are pretty decent.

 

As far as strut bars go. The type R is supposed to be really good for the Tegs. As long as you are talking about the Integra Type R and not that "Type R" brand. A lot of it is how the bar connects to the car. I personally had a Neuspeed on my Sol that I used to have, and in just bolting it on, I could tell a huge difference. You can get a Neuspeed for the Teg for about $120. I am not sure about the Type R price though. Hope that helped some, ask more questions if needed.

 

do you think the "type R" (fake *** ones) work at all...why wouldnt they? or those fake *** mugen strut bars...im only talkin about the rear strut bar

 

Well, the point is, some of those cheaper ones aren't built as sturdy so if you take corners hard, they might bend. When it bends, it does nothing (but maybe makes it ahrder to get off). Even the DC sports SB have had bending problems. The Neuspeed rear is like $2xx I think. It is worth it though. I'd get the front first. Cheaper and will show better results up front. Just with the front you should feel a huge difference (if you know your car well). The OEM Type R SB is supposed to be great although I've had no experience with them. Just be careful what you buy. Spend a little extra and know you are getting a quality product.

 

yeah ive heard about the dc sports ones bending...but ive also heard ppl say that the fake mugen ones are better than the stock gsr front strut bar

 

i bought one of the mugen bars for the front and it was really good quiality. Very Rugged. Id look for a mugen bar for the back if i were you.

 

the more adjustable and flex points in the bar, the cheaper it is.

Otherwise the function is about the same.

 

I somewhat agree and disagree. Things you should watch out for are bars with the pretty holes in them like the dc sports rear tie bar. Pure trash. Your looking for a solid piece of steel that bolts directly on. The harder the metal the better.


Probably the worst pile of junk is the jdm oem type r strut that goes across the trunk. Not the little metal one against the rear of the trunk that one is okay but i mean the one that doesnt come equipped on usdm models. Anyway that thing doesnt bolt directly on. It sits on hinges. I cant see how it would do a damn thing
but look blinging.

There are some great cheapo struts and tie bars out there you just have to look out for those things mentioned above.

 

what about tenzo r strut bars? are they any good?

 

remember.. you get what you pay for..

 

im BACK!!!! yO! ahh thanks george!!! ok, but what about tenzo r strut bars? anyone ever had one? they look fairly well constructed

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by joshmarlette &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, the point is, some of those cheaper ones aren't built as sturdy so if you take corners hard, they might bend. When it bends, it does nothing (but maybe makes it ahrder to get off). Even the DC sports SB have had bending problems. The Neuspeed rear is like $2xx I think. It is worth it though. I'd get the front first. Cheaper and will show better results up front. Just with the front you should feel a huge difference (if you know your car well). The OEM Type R SB is supposed to be great although I've had no experience with them. Just be careful what you buy. Spend a little extra and know you are getting a quality product. </TD></TR></TABLE>



If you have ever compared a Skunk2 bar to a cheap bar you would see the difference!! I wouldn't go spending a ton of money but I wouldn't get the cheapest ones either.

I have Skunk2, super strong yet super lite! I also had DC sports and Skunk2 is much stronger, DC's aren't that strong.

Anyways, my $0.02

 

Carbing owns all

 

carbing owns all...but the price owns my ***

 

I bought an ebay rear strut bar, I really can't justify myself spending $100+ on a strut bar.

unless its JDM

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by streetlights &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">carbing owns all...but the price owns my ***</TD></TR></TABLE>

Amen to that... I think we would all own Carbing if we could afford it!

Most of us don't have that kind of money so we have to make a decision based on what we have. At least for me it was getting the best bars for the $.

 

do you gotta pic of your ebay rear strut bar? how much did you buy it for? did you feel a difference? was it worth it? thanks man

 

I saw a set of two strut bars/two tie bars for sale on ebay and they look pretty good actually.
$50

 

^ i was looking at that too....but dont know if they work well or not

 

just get a fake one. they almost all bolt up the same way.

 

I have the fake typeR on the front of my teg, its reasonably well made and IMO has to be better than the stock GSR POS. i have an OMP rear bar, which is a single piece (no hinges) its extremely strong and i did find it tightened up the rear end in bends.

 

Do this..
Step..

1, Go to home depot..
2, Get metal bars and strips
3, cut to fit ...
4, weld together

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by streetlights &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...im not really down to spend hella cash for a name brand...i just want somethin functional</TD></TR></TABLE>
cheap & functional=JimFab https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=661039

 

Here's my eBay strut bar.