Drove the track on Ultimates. I then used a set of Cobalt IT-R Spec B (i think thats it) Pads on my 91 integra at VIR for 3 sessions.... then swapped back to the ultimates after i couldnt get the Cobalt pads to bed in (yes i sprayed/scrubbed the rotor face when i did this). Destroyed a set of axxis ultimates in about 5,000 street miles on my integra after the event at VIR - whatever material was deposited did not play very nicely with my rotors or pads.

[edit] <FONT COLOR="blue">To view the full size pics, right click on the link under the image, select 'copy short cut' and past it into your browser's address bar</FONT> [/edit]

Just a word of caution for you guys - at $25-$30/each, a dedicated set of track rotors is definately worth it, unless you daily drive your track pads (not possible with the Cobalts, they groove and chew up the rotor).

Just a few pics (notice the nice 'lip' on the rotor face)



http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg



http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg



http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg

Different set of rotors, same pads - after a 5 hr highway trip - I do not recommend them for street use at all. Evar. Anywhere.



http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg

And some bling i spotted in the parking lot at work today. Carbon fiber fenders and fairings....



http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg

 

Alot of BMW guys use the Cobalt Spec VR compound up front for DEs then Axxis Ultimates for street use on the same rotor. Seems to work alright for us fat German cars if anyone is wondering.

My poor Axxis Ultimates squeal like a stuck pig after toasting them multiple times at DEs with my portly car. So much for no noise.

 

GT-VR != IT-R Spec whatever...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Def &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alot of BMW guys use the Cobalt Spec VR compound up front for DEs then Axxis Ultimates for street use on the same rotor. Seems to work alright for us fat German cars if anyone is wondering.

My poor Axxis Ultimates squeal like a stuck pig after toasting them multiple times at DEs with my portly car. So much for no noise. </TD></TR></TABLE>

It's what I've been using since the pads came out back in March/April?? No issues here, but I'm running the GT.Rspec(VR) pads and not the IT spec that .RJ is running.

Austin

 

I run the same as RJ (Ultimates/Street and IT-R specB/Track) but I use different rotors for each, seeing as how the cobalt pads aren't too friendly with rotors.

 

I ran the Panther XP 1108s, bedded them in, ran 4 20+ minute HPDE sessions, and swapped 'em back out for my stock pads (I think they're made by Tarox). Only problem I saw was a lot of pad transfer from the XPs on the rotors, but oddly enough the stock pads still brake smoothly and I've lost no braking performance. Also, they're OEM rotors (manfactured by ATE iirc). I'll tell y'all what happens when it do it again on my trip up to Lime Rock w/ NASA.

But even though it works currently, I'd like to have another set of rotors. They're just priced a little more "aggressively" for my fitment though...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">GT-VR != IT-R Spec whatever... </TD></TR></TABLE>

...and I never implied they were the same.

Just adding in a little info that might help your plight since the VRs seem to be friendly to most other street compounds and rotors. That is... unless you like chewing up rotors.

 

too many letters

 

yea the two different pads can do that. you should use differnt rotors if you are doing track days on race pads. I have seen that happen when you use two idffernt kind of pads on the same rotor than abuse it.
tony
sm 140

 

maybe it has been said. but how bout resurfacing rotors in between (thats if you dont go from track to street every weekend). but if you do, then rotors for track and rotors for street sounds like a good idea. and it only takes couple min (it all depends on that DAMN SCREW)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by baonest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">(it all depends on that DAMN SCREW)</TD></TR></TABLE>

What screw?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What screw? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I knew you had a screw loose, but I didn't know it was already GONE

Sounds like that PITA screw that that holds the rotor to the hub when the wheel is off. You probably remember taking it out at some point long ago and throwing it in the trash because it doesn't really serve much purpose.

 

.RJ has a valid point, as the Cobalt spec(B) is designed for dedicated IT-Class race use only, and is not meant for "compromise" usage. The Cobalt spec(VR) has a very different composite base than the spec(B) compound, and thus is more flexible in terms of "compromise" usage, allowing some on-street use. Unfortunately for .RJ, we do not currently mold the spec(VR) compound in his fitment, due to lack of overall demandin this pad shape.

Also, based on the picture of the spec(B) pads -- the pads are done based on thickness alone.

-Andie

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cobalt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">.Also, based on the picture of the spec(B) pads -- the pads are done based on thickness alone. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The picture is of the Ultimates. The spec B pads are in a box somewhere, also done.

 

I go from HP+ street use pads on Brembo blanks to Blues for track use. It takes 1 seesion to develop carbon transfer to the rotor with the blues and then they are working great and can go all day. When I switch back to the HP+, it takes 1 mile to scrub off the transfer and things are back to normal.
BTW, my Blues last me a dozen track days and the HP+ do a year on the street including a dozen autocrosses. There has never been a wear issue, and my rotors last me the whole year. I usually scrap them before they are scrap cuz they rust....ya know Montreal winters.......

 

&lt;-----that idiot drives on HAWK BLUES.....DAILY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Was there a mention of someone using Blues ...daily...if so I didn't se it Chad.

BTW, nothing wrong with that if he is on the track daily

 

What screw???

You have to mean what screws. There are two of the damned flathead things on my ITR rotors. The last time I had to change my Cobalt Spec VR pads and rotors at the track, I had installed the screws with anti-seize and put them in not "too tight" so they would be easy to take out.Well round and round the paddock I went to find a guy with an impact driver or some other magic tool to get those little devils out. I tried a Snap-On screwdriver that has a hex nut near the handle for extra torque from a wrench, while another guy "vibrated the disK" with a small sledge. Nothing. Nobody had an impact driver, and I was getting desperate, since I had a 1.5 hour Enduro to run. I finally settled on a small pointed punch and hamered it into the screws at the edge, and when I got some bite, the screws finally started to turn! Those damn screws!

 

ya don't need the screws. "screw 'em" so to speak! ha ha.

i have drilled out just about every one i tried to remove (after rounding it out). just drill the head off and you are good to go.

the wheel studs/wheel/lug nuts hold the disk to the hub (and center it).

i don't think i own a single car that still has those stupid, f$%#ing screws in tact.

just drill them the hell out!

 

drilled those ************* out last weekend when doing my girlfriends integra rear rotors. (only to find that the f-tards at autozone gave me front rotors instead of rear)
why the hell would they make those screws soft brass?

 

Couldnt get mine out even with an impact driver. I busted out the d33walt.

 

Try the punch method. It is actually a pleasure to drive a point into the edge of those little suckers and bang away at the punch until the screw starts to rotate. Kind of an evil pleasure.