Well I changed a cracked piston and did a complete valve job on the head and put everything back together. The other night goin 85 mph boostin 7 psi(vafc hack-used to boost 9psi for 2 1/2 years NP! same fuel settings) I started loosing power, upon inspection my temp guage was goin past H. I pulled over and boy my turbo was glowing sooo red hot things was sizzling , so I killed the engine completely thinking a fire could get started. The fan was going before i killed the car, then i let it cool 5 min , turned the key so the fan would come on but it dont, hope the turbo didnt seize. Drove it home hour later, and parked it never ran since, this car is being prepped for sale but keeps giving tons of probs(crak pistons, bent valve, peeling tints, uncharged a/c, ****). Seems like it needs to adjust the timing to me but the distributor is already fully retarded so i need to go with the cam gear. This is on a greddy turbo d16z6, antifreeze is in there, PWR radiator with Fal Fan.

 

you said the fan isnt comming on?
probably your coolant temp sensor

 

The fan only stopped coming on after i killed the engine , where is the coolant temp sensor located on 93 civic with d16? Possible timing issue?? If anything i think ill try jump the fan so its on constant and see if prob persists, this was after only one test run

 

drain the coolant, and vaccuum the coolant system. make sure it holds a vaccuum, then use the vaccuum to re-fill the coolant, deleting any air pockets.

i had this same problem with my turbo gs-r, and apparently the air pockets are very hard to get rid of w/o the vaccuum setup. if you don't have this (AirLift makes the kit, i got mine from a snap-on truck), then go to a shop that does. it doesn't hardly cost anything, and IMO it's def worth it.

if your fans don't come on, then it might be the fan switch (looks like the coolant temp sensor, but it operates the fans, coolant temp sensor gives the ecu a temp signal, and operates the gauge. hope this helps.

on a turbo car, the head just reaches such high ttemps, that any air pockets will kill your chances of cooling.

 

When doing timing in the manual it says to jump a wire, is this nessasary cause when i time it i dont jump anything. I advanced it a bit and my engine sounds a lot better the fan came on after i ran it but i have yet to see if the turbine will overheat next test run.

 

I know in an EK you have to jump the code checking plug (don't know the real name for it) or the ECU will just keep the timing where it is.

 

yes, you must jump the plug. this puts the computer in a mode called "base timing". otherwise, the computer will just correct what you are doing.

 

where do i jump

 

Just like he said above you need to jump with a paper clip or something like it.On the wiring harness going to the ECU there are two adapters(don't know what else to call them)coming out of the bundle the one with two hole is the one you want.