Ok guys, please done flame me but im really a Domestic guy. But my buddy has a 1991 Honda CRX SI with a B18A1. Now to my questions. What i want to do is build up a car for the local Drag Strip, i mean i want to try and keep it street legal so i can drive it every now and then(i dont plan on street racing it alot if i do it at all [my plan is to never street race it]) Anyways im looking at getting a 1991 CRX SI or HF. HF because its the lightest, SI so i dont have to change the hubs. Engine wise iv been looking at doing a B18A1 then do iron sleeves, JE Pistons, Skunk2 Stage 3 racing cams, ADR rod bolts, and all the other internal im just not sure who makes good parts. So please let me know the best engine i can do for drag and the best internals. I have also been thinking alot about turbo or Blowin, Turbo sucks cause of spool time, plus u have to have low compression right? Blowin because i have constent power, plus i can run higher compression. IF i can think of anything else i will add. Please put imput on what you think i should do. I have an offer right now for a B18A1 with 130,000K miles for 500 i get the engine the wiring harness ECU fuel pump and what ever else i want from the car the tranny is auto and i figured id need manual so ya. Thanks for your time.

 

ok im gonna take it as no one has any adivce? if you do PLEASE POST!!!

 

What do you want to know? It seems like you have almost everything planned out.

But that motor price is kind of high, for that many miles.

 

I think you mean a B16A1. I've never heard of a B18A1, but I could be wrong.

My suggeston is get any CRX, gut it, put in a B18C1 (Integra GSR engine) and turbo with, with internals and everything else. Lower the car, put the drag launch kit on it from eibach, shocks, a GSR tranny with a lower FD and you're off. Slicks and race wheels won't hurt.

It's all what you decide though, don't let anyone tell you whats best, or what you need to do.

 

The B18A is a 90-93 Teg LS motor, I would suggest that you go LS/VTEC....

 

Do i turbo or Super Charge it? What are pro's and cons? Which will give me more power? I want to build basiclly an 11 sec car, to break the 10's i know i need to spend a hell of a lot of money. Yes i still want to try and keep the car street leagle, I'm looking for kinda every bodys input before i start to spend money.

 

Turbo will give you MUCH better power gains for less cash. Turbocharging is superior to supercharging.

 

SC Honda's don't do too well, and they're more expensive. Turbo all the way. Get the largest one you can afford to back up with internals, fuel, etc. plan it out all in advance!

 

Ok so then every one says buy a turbo, reason i thought SC is because i can still change the PSI, and because its instant there is no wait time. Is the B18A the best engine to turbo tho? Also i live in cali so if ya dont know we got some strict *** ( can i say that??) smog and emission laws. What kinda price tag would you guys put on an 11 sec engine ?? $6,000?? also if u guys could spend like 5,000 on an engine what would u guys do?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jaguar7270 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok so then every one says buy a turbo, reason i thought SC is because i can still change the PSI, and because its instant there is no wait time. Is the B18A the best engine to turbo tho? Also i live in cali so if ya dont know we got some strict *** ( can i say that??) smog and emission laws. What kinda price tag would you guys put on an 11 sec engine ?? $6,000?? also if u guys could spend like 5,000 on an engine what would u guys do?</TD></TR></TABLE>

you can change the boost on a turbo easier than a SC. To go 11's, you'll probably need to sleeve the block, might as well go 83mm bore or more (Benson, GE). Forged pistons at no less than 9:1 compression (CP, JE). Some nice rods (Crower, Pauter, Full-race). Nice tubular equal length manifold if you can afford it, but I'm sure you can make the power with an inline pro. T3/t04 turbo, 3" exhaust, FMIC. The key here is fuel management. Your block should be able to make 600+hp (not that you need it), but if you don't have good fuel management, its not gonna work. Look into TurboEdit, etc for tuning ability along with some big injectors and a fuel pump.

You'll probably need a front crossmember (JimFab) and some beefy axles. I would also look into a Quaife LSD for the tranny.

 

Home much would u guess this setup would cost?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jaguar7270 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Home much would u guess this setup would cost?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I can see you droping $5000 easily into the motor alone

 

supercharger and turbocharger both should have low compression for untuned boost. there is no differentiation between the types of boost as far as the engine is concerned... only with a supercharger, you have to change the pulley to up the boost to only 9lbs from 6, while a turbo can make unlimited boost.. limited only by the turbo itself.

 

ok what ru talking about a SC can be changed just like a Turbo, and plus i can run high compression pistons with a SC, why wouldent i be able to? I want to have an 11 sec car, so give me ideas guys! Correct me if im worng also so i know, and has anyone setup there car in Desktop Dyno?

 

you cant safely run a high c/r with any kind of boost because you are still forcing more air in the combustion chamber... Turbos and sperchargers both do the same thing just in different ways

 

k so which one is better? and if u had around 5 grand to spend what would u buy?

 

Turbo is better for a 4 cylinder. The inherent parasitic loss in a supercharger is just too much to overcome but torqueless engines. 5k is kind of low after you buy all the swap parts, but you can probably still pull it off if you do your own work and if you can fabricate some things on your own. Rebuilding that block with sleeves and forged internals is going to cost almost 2k itself.

 

well i was going to do Iron sleeves, JE pistions but if i turbo then i gotta have like almost stock compression, right? Also i found a B16A JDM engine for 1350 is that a good deal? dosent matter miles cause im gonna sleeve it and rebuild it anyways. but like i said i want to run 11 sec so what would be the best engine to start off with? then what internals would u guys reccomend, i was on Skunk2 web site and after doing research on thier page i dont think i will do Skunk2 cams because they said i need to do the whole head with skunk2 stuff, is anyone know if this is true?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jaguar7270 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i was going to do Iron sleeves, JE pistions but if i turbo then i gotta have like almost stock compression, right? Also i found a B16A JDM engine for 1350 is that a good deal? dosent matter miles cause im gonna sleeve it and rebuild it anyways. but like i said i want to run 11 sec so what would be the best engine to start off with? then what internals would u guys reccomend, i was on Skunk2 web site and after doing research on thier page i dont think i will do Skunk2 cams because they said i need to do the whole head with skunk2 stuff, is anyone know if this is true? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Any b-series motor could make you the power to run 11's if sleeved. I like the b16 bored to like 83mm or so, but a ~2.0 LS could make almost as much power and more torque. You don't really need to change the valvetrain, maybe some gsr cams or something (if you go b16). The Skunk2 stuff is unnecessary and expensive. You should read up in the forced induction forum, this thread really doesn't belong here.

 

a b16 for 1350 should include the shafts,tranny,ecu,etc. and you should be able to get it shipped for that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jaguar7270 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i was going to do Iron sleeves, JE pistions but if i turbo then i gotta have like almost stock compression, right? Also i found a B16A JDM engine for 1350 is that a good deal? dosent matter miles cause im gonna sleeve it and rebuild it anyways. but like i said i want to run 11 sec so what would be the best engine to start off with? then what internals would u guys reccomend, i was on Skunk2 web site and after doing research on thier page i dont think i will do Skunk2 cams because they said i need to do the whole head with skunk2 stuff, is anyone know if this is true? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Why not run a B20 block with a p&p b16 head add Jun stage 3 cams then add an upgraded valvetrain. Slap some high compression pistons in there (roughly 11:1) add an ITR intake manifold and JG throttle body with a good header and you could see low 12's with slicks no prob.

You don't necessarily a turbo to run 11's. With all motor you will need less power to run the times you want to run as opposed to forced induction. And with forced induction to run those times reliably all the internals of the engine need to be upgraded and will most likely run you over $6,000.

Good luck, but whatever you do drop the idea of a supercharger.

 

personally if you are looking for a full blown drag car i would recommend you do a ls/vtec, b16 head and then add a turbo to it. If you can build up the engine and throw on a nice turbo u will prob. get into the 11's without a problem. This requries extreme skill and knowledge so don't recommend doing it yourself unless u know exactly what u r doing and understand honda engineering inside and out

Good luck with whatever you do

 

there was a dude here that i saw with an EG hatch with LS/VTEC.. CTR head, GReddy turbo kit, he had a 3 bar map sensor so im guessing he was boosting some high numbers.. he ran a 12.8

 

Ls/Vtec, or Crvtec are both bad ideas only because they are highly unreliable. After 40,000 or so they blow because they are not made to be together. Just because they mate doesnt make it right. Best bet IMHO is to go b16, or b18, full internals, sleeved so forth and so on, and big turbo, or better yet, build an all motor monster. Youll get more respect and pride out of having a car that runs 11's without turbo, sc or NOS.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by team2n1hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ls/Vtec, or Crvtec are both bad ideas only because they are highly unreliable. After 40,000 or so they blow because they are not made to be together. </TD></TR></TABLE>
most high performance motors that are built and used for daily duty get pulled apart way before you have 40,000 miles on them. I was pulling mine apart about every 20 k and checking all specs. lots of boost and thinking that it will hold together like a stocker is just plan dumb