Here is the dyno graph from a month ago:

And the setup:
1995 JDM Prelude VTEC H22A Engine & 5spd Transmission w/ LSD
Head Milled 0.020"
Modified Intake Manfiold
Crower Stage 2 Camshafts
Imagine Engineering 4-2-1 Header
STR Cam Gears
STR 70mm Throttle Body
Walbro 190lph Fuel Pump
AEM Cold Air Intake, High Flow Fuel Rail, & Fuel Pressure Regulator
APEXi V-AFC
Thermal Classic Exhaust
Exedy Organic Clutch
NGK Spark Plug Wires & Platinum Plugs


Here is what I did:
JDM Type-S Pistons
Golden Eagle Sleeves
Remove balancer shafts
Open Header

Here is the dyno from today:


I put the whole motor back together, then started it and check everything over. I went out and and went 50% throttle to 5000 rpm in 1st,2nd, and 3rd, decel in 3rd and 2nd to 2500, repeated 2 more times. Then the same at 70% throttle to 6000 rpm repeated 3 times and then the same at 100% throttle to 7500 rpm repeated 3 times. I did that to break the motor in and seat the rings. I then drove back and changed the oil, and then drove around for just a little while before going to the dyno. I had 35 miles on the car when I got to the dyno and did 10 runs. The cam timing is +3 exhaust and -1.5 intake as it was before. Ignition timing is 17 degrees. I was running open header. A/F ratio was 13.0:1 to 13.5:1. I thought the squigily parts on the graph was from the 93 octane gas, so I put 100 octane Turbo Blue in and it smoothed it out a little, but is still noticeable. There is no blow by and I'm not burning any oil. I have a race Sunday and can get back to the dyno tomorrow night if I have to.

One thing to note is that the machine shop broke my knock sensor and I grabbed one from a 1st gen B16A. It looks a little different than the one that was on my Prelude and most OBD1 DOHC motors (the metal part that the socket goes on is longer by 1/4"). Any ideas?

 

You do understand since you added new internals you will need different fuel curves and ignition tables since you milled your head right? Did you just throw it on the dyno, or were these numbers AFTER you tuned the fresh motor?

 

that looks knock sensor ish.... put in a regular DOHC VTEC one I don't think they are compatible.

Only 35 miles on the motor? Ummm don't you need to break in the rings? Am I missing something? When I broke in my motor it was over 2500 miles, my endyn pistons a swear said at least 1000 miles for break in.

Also your cam timing could be **** for the current compression.possibly?

 

I would say it's the knock sensor screwin around; if it was messed up, it would be pullin a good bit of timing, which would cause the drop in power.

Throw in a Prelude knock sensor, re-dyno it, and tell us what happens.

 

I also think you need a bit more than 35 miles to break it in.

Why did you sleeve and just throw in Type-S pistons?

 

yes how do you know you're not burning oil if you only have 35 miles on it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4bidden &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I also think you need a bit more than 35 miles to break it in.

Why did you sleeve and just throw in Type-S pistons?</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmmm, didn't notice that....

 

The fuel was adjusted for the new pistons with the VAFC. I'm going to try and get some miles on it and get a different knock sensor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ranta18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The fuel was adjusted for the new pistons with the VAFC. I'm going to try and get some miles on it and get a different knock sensor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah seriously I recommend at least 1000 miles.

do not go over 3500 for the first 250mi, oil change
up to 4000 to 500mi, oil change
to 4500 till 750 oil change
to 5000 till 1000 oil change
work into vtec at will just keep increasing

If you just gun it now your rings will never seat you'll just fry and glaze them up and it will never make good power and burn lots of oil.

 

hmm stock timing on a stock 10.0:1 comp h22 is 15 deg. and your running 17 deg. with type s pistons and a 20k milled head. pull some freakin timing out. and when was 35 miles a break in. i bet you glazed the cyl linings and are getting blow by.

 

The first dyno was smooth,the second one looks a little staggered...you might have some detonation in there.

 

breaking in the motor require 1000+ miles, to be extrem safe 2000+ miles, racing the motor or reving the motor to redline before the break in, you proboly screw up the block, check your compression? if your not 250psi or higher then the motor is screw,

 

break ins should last at least 1k miles below 4500ish as noted before. be nice. daily drive it. DO NOT HIT VTEC. etc. etc. change the oil alot. etc.

on a side note did anyone else notice the 42hp increasement at 5,500rpms. i'd say the new power isn't too bad.

 

I call BS on the long, easy break in. In my career, and especially nowadays with newer materials adn manufacturing processes, I have seen more blowby from easy breakins then normal driving and intentional dyno pulls. I'm not saying go hammer it off the showroom floor, but babying it is worse. See:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

as ONE example. Almost all the other top tuners suggest the same, if they address it at all.

Flame suit on,

Al

 

To me, it looks fuel related. I would suggest adding fuel with the FPR, if the pump can handle it, until you are slightly rich, then lean it out where you need it with the V-AFC. The 13:1 sounds ok, but the 13.5:1 sounds a little lean, even on 100 octane. The higher octane will not sure the lean condition, but it will give more resistance to detonation for possibly more timing.
Was everything reset to "0" before the tuning session?


Jason

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by al_r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I call BS on the long, easy break in. In my career, and especially nowadays with newer materials adn manufacturing processes, I have seen more blowby from easy breakins then normal driving and intentional dyno pulls. I'm not saying go hammer it off the showroom floor, but babying it is worse. See:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

as ONE example. Almost all the other top tuners suggest the same, if they address it at all.

Flame suit on,

Al </TD></TR></TABLE>

al_r, I'm with you on that one... I've seen it done several times this way as well, and everything seems consistant that you can do it this way with the newer engines!

Dan P.

 

I put 700 miles on it (200 highway) and did 3 passes at the track. You can definitely tell the power and torque is gone. I did a compression test and it came out like this:
#1 200 psi
#2 200 psi
#3 195 psi
#4 205 psi
It isn't burning any oil and it doesn't look like there is any blow by. My dyno guy said that the intake cam gear might be off a tooth. The intake and exhaust both appear to be pointing straight up. However, the marks on the sides that are suppose to line up when the top marks are straight up are off by a tooth. It looks like the intake cam gear would have to be advanced (rotated counter clockwise) by a tooth. Think thats it?

 

A retarded intake cam would defintely hurt power.

 

A tooth is quite a bit....I doubt you could even hit the numbers you did with it off a tooth.

 

Turned out to be the cam gears. I messed around with them and got them to line up perfect. Compression is back up. Going to the dyno in a couple hours.

 

i was going to say... my engine wise stock H22A4 gets 205 across the board

 

250 sounds a little high

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SKDRCR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">250 sounds a little high </TD></TR></TABLE>

not for what he ius running, id say its a little low. with the head milled and type-s pistons, he should be around 12:1, which would be 260-270 psi.

and once again, why did you sleeve and put cast pistons in?

 

well it should cause the ecu to go into limp mode ....