First dyno of my new LS/VTEC. Looking for opinions
Here my tune. It was done by jeremy and the boss guy at inlinepro. There are some circumstances that caused them to not fully tune the engine. For some reason my crankpully or my timing belt cover are messed up some how making it unable to determine the base timing. They were also were not able to adjust my cam gears, because I wasn't sure how much safe adjustment the motor has. The motor is a lsvtec, 84.5mm bore, portflow head w/ cloverleaf chamberwork, skunk2 stage 2 cams, 12:1 compression, Wiseco pistons, and probe ultralight rods. Let me know what you think.
Modified by Mach slo at 9:53 PM 10/15/2003
Modified by Mach slo at 10:02 PM 10/15/2003
Modified by Mach slo at 11:50 PM 10/15/2003
Modified by Mach slo at 9:53 PM 10/15/2003
Modified by Mach slo at 10:02 PM 10/15/2003
Modified by Mach slo at 11:50 PM 10/15/2003
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mach slo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The assemply was done by IB. I only put the head on. I thought it had already been done, but turns out it wasn't</TD></TR></TABLE>
If IB didn't have your head they couldn't clay your engine. Using another head would have been a waste of time.
If IB didn't have your head they couldn't clay your engine. Using another head would have been a waste of time.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SMSP »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If IB didn't have your head they couldn't clay your engine. Using another head would have been a waste of time. </TD></TR></TABLE>
What do you mean?
If IB didn't have your head they couldn't clay your engine. Using another head would have been a waste of time. </TD></TR></TABLE>
What do you mean?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mach slo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What do you mean?</TD></TR></TABLE>
dave is saying, you have to have both the block and the head to check clearances. Whoever did your final assembly should have checked it for you.
Seems like you've got a decent amount of tq. but your HP numbers are hurting. Should be making atleast another 20whp.
What do you mean?</TD></TR></TABLE>
dave is saying, you have to have both the block and the head to check clearances. Whoever did your final assembly should have checked it for you.
Seems like you've got a decent amount of tq. but your HP numbers are hurting. Should be making atleast another 20whp.
Really another 20? I had thought I have to go with higher compression for certain to get above 215. Cool. Have any of you ever seen the goofy problem I am having where the crank pully tdc mark is off? I used a gauge to verify that where tdc is. When the bottom end is at tdc, the crank pully is a quarter of an inch past its mark.
Um what do you mean you used a guage to verify that the TDC mark is off? Do you have a milled head? If so, that might be the reason. Once you initially have your crank pully set at TDC and then set your cam gears at TDC and actually crank the motor with the timing belt on, the TDC markings between the cam gears and the pulley will be off.
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1) Tom does not mill more than 15 thou unless someone asks for it.
2) Check with IB to see how much clearance in their valve reliefs with your size valves, they have done motors before with SK2 st 3 cams
3) Which cam gears are you using ? if Skunk2 then they can usually throw off the pulley mark by 1/4" or so when using a 22 teeth waterpump and GSR belt.
4) Find out from IB what piston to deck height was done, once not sticking out the hole you can try #5
5) You can prolly have someone with experience use a leak guage to set your cams to TDC then dial in a +2/-2 cam gear overlap which is usually safe.
Your motor also looks like its being run pretty lean from your observed chart ... be careful on the street driving.
Greg
2) Check with IB to see how much clearance in their valve reliefs with your size valves, they have done motors before with SK2 st 3 cams
3) Which cam gears are you using ? if Skunk2 then they can usually throw off the pulley mark by 1/4" or so when using a 22 teeth waterpump and GSR belt.
4) Find out from IB what piston to deck height was done, once not sticking out the hole you can try #5
5) You can prolly have someone with experience use a leak guage to set your cams to TDC then dial in a +2/-2 cam gear overlap which is usually safe.
Your motor also looks like its being run pretty lean from your observed chart ... be careful on the street driving.
Greg
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CHEETAH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1) Tom does not mill more than 15 thou unless someone asks for it.
2) Check with IB to see how much clearance in their valve reliefs with your size valves, they have done motors before with SK2 st 3 cams
3) Which cam gears are you using ? if Skunk2 then they can usually throw off the pulley mark by 1/4" or so when using a 22 teeth waterpump and GSR belt.
4) Find out from IB what piston to deck height was done, once not sticking out the hole you can try #5
5) You can prolly have someone with experience use a leak guage to set your cams to TDC then dial in a +2/-2 cam gear overlap which is usually safe.
Your motor also looks like its being run pretty lean from your observed chart ... be careful on the street driving.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
My cam gears are aem ones. The belt is GS-r and waterpump is 22 teeth. I thought it seemed a lil lean. especially on the low end of the rpm range. the high end seems good though.
2) Check with IB to see how much clearance in their valve reliefs with your size valves, they have done motors before with SK2 st 3 cams
3) Which cam gears are you using ? if Skunk2 then they can usually throw off the pulley mark by 1/4" or so when using a 22 teeth waterpump and GSR belt.
4) Find out from IB what piston to deck height was done, once not sticking out the hole you can try #5
5) You can prolly have someone with experience use a leak guage to set your cams to TDC then dial in a +2/-2 cam gear overlap which is usually safe.
Your motor also looks like its being run pretty lean from your observed chart ... be careful on the street driving.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
My cam gears are aem ones. The belt is GS-r and waterpump is 22 teeth. I thought it seemed a lil lean. especially on the low end of the rpm range. the high end seems good though.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MackSpeed-616 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Should be making atleast another 20whp. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Motor could be choked. Might be running a cheap header and/or exh.
edit: those numbers really aren`t too bad if they didn`t even touch the gears.
Ryan
Should be making atleast another 20whp. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Motor could be choked. Might be running a cheap header and/or exh.
edit: those numbers really aren`t too bad if they didn`t even touch the gears.
Ryan
No cat, and the header is a temporary rigged up mass air header with a ugly 2.5 inch collector weld job. I am actually very supprised it made so much power. It can still take more ignition, and some more fuel on the low end, and the cams the cam gears are still at 0 degrees. Pretty crazy hah?
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