A friend of mine had someone do his h22a timing belt. They did not reload the auto tensioner instead they unbolted the cams slid the belt on and then pried the cams back down and bolted them in. No torque wrench was used for bolting the cams in just snugged up. Now when my friend started the car up the belt started sliding off the gears and eating itself up.

I went over there and reinstalled everything the right way (I've done h22a timing belts in the past with no problems) with a new belt and reloaded auto tensioner and when spinning the motor over by hand the tracking still seems off on the intake side gear and the belt gradually works its way a little off the edge. Visually the cam gears are inline. I'm now going to reinstall another set of stock cams and gears and try it again.

Anyone seen this before, any ideas?
BTW this motor was bought used so we have no idea how it was running previously.

 

ttt

 

shouldn't they install it the right way, by compressing te A-T?

 

When I went over there and installed it I did compress the auto tensioner. I reinstalled the belt two times and the same result. I didn't hear about the way the other guy did it till afterwards and I didn't have a torque wrench with me to redo the cams at that time. The kid is going to bring the car to my garage and I'm going to take everything apart and redo the cam and timing belt install.

 

tell your friend hes lucky he wasnt driving when that happened....

 

you could also do an H23 manual conversion at this time. Perhaps the auto-tensioner is shot?

 

how lose is the belt when you put the a/t on. you should be able to turn the belt 90 dagrees at the longest point if it goes more its not tight enough.

 

Same thing is happening to me..sept i had the tenioner replaced 3 or 4 times. It all started happening when i got cams and cam gears. I was just htinking though it might be my water pump is going bad so its tighting the belt to much before the gears. The water pump seems to be clicking and i have metal shavings in my rad fluid. Im gonnna replace the pump and see it that helps at all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by satan_srv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you could also do an H23 manual conversion at this time. Perhaps the auto-tensioner is shot?</TD></TR></TABLE>

my auto tensioner crapped out at 60k miles, while I was driving, and it ate the belt

 

make sure they tightened the cams OK. It almost sounds as if they aren't torqued down enough and when the timing belt is tensioned it's causing the cams to be pulled down.... and it most likely wouldn't take much of an angle to cause the timing belt to "slide down" and off the outter edge of the timing gears

 

Yeah I'm thinking the cams need to be reinstalled right.

I've tried two different auto tensioners both were used but I don't think it is the auto tensioner. Tension on the T-belt seems real good.

When I rotate the motor over it looks to lose tracking on the intake cam gear. Everything looks real straight coming off the water pump but it just gradually works itself off the itake cam gear which then pulls it off the exhaust cam gear.

 

I'd bet you $20 that the bolt that the tensioner bearing pivots on is bent. It's a funny looking bolt that goes into the water pump.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flyrod &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd bet you $20 that the bolt that the tensioner bearing pivots on is bent. It's a funny looking bolt that goes into the water pump. </TD></TR></TABLE>

either that,or make sure the tensioner idler nut is tight also.And save yourself the hassle,cuz im sure the auto tensioner is gonna go out soon enough,get the parts for the manual tensioner.Trust me,you and him will be glad you did it....

 

Well, i think yet another auto tensioner of mine is giving out. What parts do i need the the manual tensioner?

 

This link includes all the parts, minus the "lock nut" and the plate that the lock nut goes into. Most people dont realize but the lock nut is taken off before the lower cover and everything is put back together. It is NOT considered a safety precaution, it is used to keep the tension on the timing belt while you do the tension for the balancer belt.

http://www.hparts.com/part_loo....y=12

If you need a new belt, add 14400-P13-014 for $36.49.

That link for some reason adds a lot of extra crap, just unselect all those.

 

I remember when I was doing my timing belt...

I turned the engine by hand and the belt kept sliding off the cam gears. I was getting a little upset when I realized I was turning the engine the WRONG WAY! Make sure your are turning the engine the correct way or the belt WILL SLIDE OFF!!!

 

I cant see what what stuff is, what is the model car you got those part numbers off, i can go to my dealer and ask for the whole tensioner assembly?
and what is it missing?
do i need it?

 

My Belt is sliding off the cam gears now... I started hearing a light squeek that was even with the RPM, so I checked the external belts... not it... pulled the valve cover and there are marks everywhere. The belt is sliding off!

 

yea thats exactly what mine looks like. Then i cut the half moons out of my valve cover and it threw the belt all together so i wouldnt suggest that. And if you look at the belt, it should be loose at the front of the motor, but back by the intake cam its realy tight.
im not sure whats doing this but its pissing me off

 

So did anyone figure out whats causing this? I have the same problem on a freshly rebuilt h22, its also got a new timing belt idler, ballancer belt idler , waterpump, hydraluic tensioner,and timing belt. Also got adjustable cam gears and im thinking thats what might be causing it.

 

I figured this out back when I was doing my auto to manual tensioner swap. OK, you guys know that big gold bolt that goes through the tensioner(the one with the big washer behind it). I found out that the more you tighten down that bolt, the closer the belt moves to the inside edge of the camgears. At first I had the bolt slightly tight, and when I turned the engine the t-belt would stick out about 1-2mm. I went back and tightened that gold bolt as hard as I could, and now the belt sits flush with the gear.

One day I wanna go back and shave a few thou. off that washer to make the belt sit further back.

 

Hmmm, Thats interesting , I replaced that whole idler assembly and I torqued the bolt to specs, but my belt runs 1/8 to 3/16" off the outside edge. I think I may try my stock cam gears and see if that fixes it or not. Any other ideas, im about at the end of my rope, Does anybody know if there is a thrust washer behind the cam gear, or if anybody makes a machined washer that will go behind them? The inside of my cam gears is rubbing against the plastic shield on the head behind the gears which is telling me that the gears should be spaced farther outward.