95 GSR Turbo or N/A???
I need opinions from both families. I'm rebuilding my shortblock, and now is a good time to upgrade my ride. It will be a daily driver on 91 octane pump gas. Options are as follows:
95 GSR OBD-1 motor
AEM CAI, ITR throttle body, Skunk2 intake manifold, Skunk2 stage 2 cams, ef-1 valvetrain, JDM ITR pistons (11.3:1), ARP rod bolts, milled head (about 11.6:1), JDM ITR DC Sports stainless 4-1 header, custom exhaust, VAFC, stage 2 clutch kit. In search of almost 200 whp.
95 GSR OBD-1 motor
Greddy FMIC, T3/T4 turbo, Tial 36mm wastegate, ITR cams, ITR valvetrain, HKS BOV, Greddy turbo timer, ARP rod bolts, ARP head studs, AEM FPR, AEM fuel rail, VAFC, boost will prolly be controlled by a manuel boost controller (bleeder valves/caps), stage 2 clutch kit, 3'' exhaust pipes and 3'' downpipe. In search of almost 230 whp.
About how much am I looking to spend for both, and what is/isn't worth it in the supplied list above? I basically want more bang for the buck, with a limit of about $2,500. What cheap OEM pistons can I use to lower compression in my GSR? What is more reliable and will last longer from your experience in a daily driver? Thanx fellas.
95 GSR OBD-1 motor
AEM CAI, ITR throttle body, Skunk2 intake manifold, Skunk2 stage 2 cams, ef-1 valvetrain, JDM ITR pistons (11.3:1), ARP rod bolts, milled head (about 11.6:1), JDM ITR DC Sports stainless 4-1 header, custom exhaust, VAFC, stage 2 clutch kit. In search of almost 200 whp.
95 GSR OBD-1 motor
Greddy FMIC, T3/T4 turbo, Tial 36mm wastegate, ITR cams, ITR valvetrain, HKS BOV, Greddy turbo timer, ARP rod bolts, ARP head studs, AEM FPR, AEM fuel rail, VAFC, boost will prolly be controlled by a manuel boost controller (bleeder valves/caps), stage 2 clutch kit, 3'' exhaust pipes and 3'' downpipe. In search of almost 230 whp.
About how much am I looking to spend for both, and what is/isn't worth it in the supplied list above? I basically want more bang for the buck, with a limit of about $2,500. What cheap OEM pistons can I use to lower compression in my GSR? What is more reliable and will last longer from your experience in a daily driver? Thanx fellas.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr206 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i cant believe you would compare the 2</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL. I obviously know that goin turbo is a better option. And by better I mean more power, easier power, and my personal favorite option. There's nothing better than turbo. But I need to get my car running, and I also need a good reliable source of transportation while driving daily to work and school. And need extra power for the occasional weekend runs. My motor would basically remain stock internally, cuz all my money will go into the turbo kit. Or I can do a somewhat mild N/A setup with around 11.7:1 compression and more aggressive cams. I'm just worried that going turbo might be a little bit too much work/trouble for me. So I'm asking you fellow honda-techers what's your opinion on my situation. I ran my friend's turbo LS on 7psi and pretty much hung with it, and I had bolt ons, so I just wanna make sure turbo is the choice for me.
LOL. I obviously know that goin turbo is a better option. And by better I mean more power, easier power, and my personal favorite option. There's nothing better than turbo. But I need to get my car running, and I also need a good reliable source of transportation while driving daily to work and school. And need extra power for the occasional weekend runs. My motor would basically remain stock internally, cuz all my money will go into the turbo kit. Or I can do a somewhat mild N/A setup with around 11.7:1 compression and more aggressive cams. I'm just worried that going turbo might be a little bit too much work/trouble for me. So I'm asking you fellow honda-techers what's your opinion on my situation. I ran my friend's turbo LS on 7psi and pretty much hung with it, and I had bolt ons, so I just wanna make sure turbo is the choice for me.
its gonn a be more work to go all motor cuz your talking about ripping your head down and block down , you can easily bolt a turbo kit on a in a few hours.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P1mpSlap »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this thread sucks
cant people make up their own mind</TD></TR></TABLE>
cant people make up their own mind</TD></TR></TABLE>
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P1mpSlap »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this thread sucks
cant people make up their own mind</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL. If this thread sucks, why did you post in here? Whata dumbass.
My motor is getting ripped apart anyways, cuz I spun a rod bearing and am basically getting everything rebuilt to stock specs and a turbo kit, or higher compression/more aggressive cams all motor. That's why I made this thread...to find out peoples opinions on what would be a better choice while still being reliable.
cant people make up their own mind</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL. If this thread sucks, why did you post in here? Whata dumbass.
My motor is getting ripped apart anyways, cuz I spun a rod bearing and am basically getting everything rebuilt to stock specs and a turbo kit, or higher compression/more aggressive cams all motor. That's why I made this thread...to find out peoples opinions on what would be a better choice while still being reliable.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by guymosiris »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
LOL. If this thread sucks, why did you post in here? Whata dumbass.
My motor is getting ripped apart anyways, cuz I spun a rod bearing and am basically getting everything rebuilt to stock specs and a turbo kit, or higher compression/more aggressive cams all motor. That's why I made this thread...to find out peoples opinions on what would be a better choice while still being reliable. </TD></TR></TABLE>
How about you make your own ******* choices? Are you not that intelegant enough to do that? Apparently, you are having to have someone rip apart your own motor and not do the work yourself. I highly doubt you'll be able to maintain a boosted car even if you had one.
Threads like this suck b/c people have no ******* clue. Why dont you do some research yourself and find out what is the best for you.
******* n00b. Hit the search and learn something.
<FONT SIZE="4">SEARCH GOD DAMNIT</FONT>
LOL. If this thread sucks, why did you post in here? Whata dumbass.
My motor is getting ripped apart anyways, cuz I spun a rod bearing and am basically getting everything rebuilt to stock specs and a turbo kit, or higher compression/more aggressive cams all motor. That's why I made this thread...to find out peoples opinions on what would be a better choice while still being reliable. </TD></TR></TABLE>
How about you make your own ******* choices? Are you not that intelegant enough to do that? Apparently, you are having to have someone rip apart your own motor and not do the work yourself. I highly doubt you'll be able to maintain a boosted car even if you had one.
Threads like this suck b/c people have no ******* clue. Why dont you do some research yourself and find out what is the best for you.
******* n00b. Hit the search and learn something.
<FONT SIZE="4">SEARCH GOD DAMNIT</FONT>
if you never built an engine from the ground up, don't have the tools, and don't have the time or patience, it's better to bring it to a professional.
Between Turbo and NA for you, I would run a low boost setup, instead of invested money in building the head, spend it on a nice manifold/turbo and rebuild the botton end.
**edit
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P1mpSlap »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> ******* n00b. </TD></TR></TABLE>
P1mpSlap has been a member for 381 days.
guymosiris has been a member for 389 days.
lol
Between Turbo and NA for you, I would run a low boost setup, instead of invested money in building the head, spend it on a nice manifold/turbo and rebuild the botton end.
**edit
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P1mpSlap »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> ******* n00b. </TD></TR></TABLE>
P1mpSlap has been a member for 381 days.
guymosiris has been a member for 389 days.
lol
You guys are all gettin pissed off, cuz you don't wanna see this thread, then don't look. LOL man you guys are funny. I come on honda-tech to look for parts, and post in threads I want to post in, not ones that I think suck and I don't wanna post in. You act like you're obligated to write something in here, and I'm making you or something. LOL. And I'm not doing the work on my own, cuz my friend's doin the work at his shop with all the tools and supplies needed. I don't know what type of spoiled brats you guys are, but my parents arent gonna let me rip apart my motor in their garage.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bolivianstrtwpn »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you never built an engine from the ground up, don't have the tools, and don't have the time, it's better to bring it to a professional.
Between Turbo and NA for you, I would run a low boost setup, instead of invested money in building the head, spend it on a nice manifold/turbo and rebuild the botton end.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Now here's an opinion I can work with. A good answer that can make up my mind about things. Thank you very much for your input.
Between Turbo and NA for you, I would run a low boost setup, instead of invested money in building the head, spend it on a nice manifold/turbo and rebuild the botton end.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Now here's an opinion I can work with. A good answer that can make up my mind about things. Thank you very much for your input.
p1mpslap is just an ******* that thinks he is hot ****. good point that guymosiris has been a member longer then he has been. It is a valid question that you asked there you get a better $ per hp gain by boosting it I should have put that it is a bad question a bad question is one that is not asked.
turbo's kick major ***
...but for the daily drive local miles the all motor setup would be economical...but again turbo on highway miles is't that bad eithor
...but for the daily drive local miles the all motor setup would be economical...but again turbo on highway miles is't that bad eithor
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P1mpSlap »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Are you not that intelegant enough to do that?</TD></TR></TABLE>
umm.. lol are we not intelligent enough to spell? stop hating, and go away you 381 day n00b
lol anyways, i have basically the same exact n/a setup you're describing there, and it's giving some damn good power... haven't gotten it dynoed yet, so i'm waiting to see numbers from it... but to be honest, turbo always has more potential and is usually the best bang for the buck. n/a does cost a lot of $ just on labor, whereas that turbo install probably wont cost as much.
Are you not that intelegant enough to do that?</TD></TR></TABLE>
umm.. lol are we not intelligent enough to spell? stop hating, and go away you 381 day n00b
lol anyways, i have basically the same exact n/a setup you're describing there, and it's giving some damn good power... haven't gotten it dynoed yet, so i'm waiting to see numbers from it... but to be honest, turbo always has more potential and is usually the best bang for the buck. n/a does cost a lot of $ just on labor, whereas that turbo install probably wont cost as much.
Thanx a lot fellas, I think I'll be boosting. As much as I want a powerful, yet still mild all-motor setup, I think I'll do better off goin FI. As for my internals...would you guys recommend aftermarket rods/pistons to acheive about 230whp @ 7psi, and about 300whp @ 14psi for the track? I've been researching and it looks as if 80% of thrown rods are caused by high RPM use, rather than boost. Also, do you guys think a T3/T04E is too big/small for my goals with a decent spool? What would you guys recommend for my goals, while driving on pump gas (91) daily driven with an occasional road race on the highway? Thanx fellas.
I got to drive a turbo GSR, with just rods (and pistons may be, dont remember) upgraded. That car put down 260ish whp on...10~12 psi (can't remember how much psi was exactly. lol I cant remember ****!) Its a daily driven one too. no problems driving around town at all.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by guymosiris »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanx a lot fellas, I think I'll be boosting. As much as I want a powerful, yet still mild all-motor setup, I think I'll do better off goin FI. As for my internals...would you guys recommend aftermarket rods/pistons to acheive about 230whp @ 7psi, and about 300whp @ 14psi for the track? I've been researching and it looks as if 80% of thrown rods are caused by high RPM use, rather than boost. Also, do you guys think a T3/T04E is too big/small for my goals with a decent spool? What would you guys recommend for my goals, while driving on pump gas (91) daily driven with an occasional road race on the highway? Thanx fellas.</TD></TR></TABLE>
k i may not know too much about turbo, so if im wrong, someone please correct me.. but, i do believe that if you're gonna go fi, you can't just bump the boost for track.. if you tune it at 7 lbs, then u go to a track and bmp it to 14, then it won't be tuned anymore, and that's where stuff goes wrong...
k i may not know too much about turbo, so if im wrong, someone please correct me.. but, i do believe that if you're gonna go fi, you can't just bump the boost for track.. if you tune it at 7 lbs, then u go to a track and bmp it to 14, then it won't be tuned anymore, and that's where stuff goes wrong...
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