What machines do they use?

Is it hydraulic pressure? Or Air pressure? 1 man, 2 man, bleeder bottle, what?

I know how to bleed correctly but, have only used a Tilton bleeder bottle and needed help to apply pressure. I am tracking the car more often now and don't always have someone to help me.


Warren was nice enough to provide this link:


http://www.motiveproducts.com/


This combined with a nice bleeder bottle and I'm set.


I am just curious how the dealerships do it and is there a better method?

Thanks in advance and sorry if I didn't Search this exact topic, I've just come back from reading a load of Master Cylinder posts and my eyes hurt


Anton

 

Speed Bleeders....do it the old fashioned way....just my 2 cents...

 

I'm sure quite a few of us are interested in this.

Also, what is the procedure for when your high performance fluid has "gone wet" or whatever the term is. How do you go about replacing all of it? Do you drain the system, re-bench the MC, and then bleed like crazy?
(I know I should be spending some decent time with my helms... but...)
-PHiZ

 

Hmmm I've never heard of "benchin" the MC......can you elaborate on this...

I just opened all my bleeder screws and let gravity do its job when I switched from DOT3 to Synthentic Dot4 fluid.........Bled them like crazy...it was not that bad......

 

i am an acura technician, i always bench bleed the master cylinder if i'm replacing it. this is simply done by attaching two rubber tubes to the master cylinder and then routing them into the reservoir, which should be halfway filled with fluid. then, with the mc on the vise, you just pump the plunger in several times or until you don't see anymore air dumping into the fluid. then i bleed the rear calipers or drums, and move to the front. sometimes the calipers don't need to be bled if you are replacing the mc only. also sometimes the mc can be bled on the car by just pumping and cracking the fittings on the mc. this is a two man job unless you use a power bleeder, this is just a siphoning process but i don't like it.

 

aah thanks.....

just to get it clear.....bleeding goes rear pass, to font driver, to driver rear to pass front right?? Cross it like???

 

My 1998 Helms instructs to bleed the front brakes first, for some reason.

Ben

 

you can actually do it either way because of the criss cross design. works for me.

 

Gravity bleed works fine for a flush. I use a vacuum bleeder because it is faster.
Pressure bleeders are going the way of the dinosaur.

However you decide to do the job, remove all of the old brake fluid from the master cylinder before you start. Fill it with new fluid and invert another pint of new fluid on top of the master cylinder. The opening in the bottle will be submerged. As you bleed the system, the fluid will drain out of the inverted pint of brake fluid.

It doesn't really matter what order you bleed the brakes when you flush. The order is important only when there is air in the lines (from a major repair...brake lines, abs unit, etc.) and a second man is used to pump the brakes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AngryTroll &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Gravity bleed works fine for a flush. I use a vacuum bleeder because it is faster.
Pressure bleeders are going the way of the dinosaur.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Can you list any good vaccuum bleeders or provide links?

My main concern is use at the track where you don't always have electrical support or the use of a compressor.

How much is a vaccuum bleeder setup?