Well my car is all wired up and everything is the way it is suppose to be but im not felling that true power i saw on videos and heard about. FIrst gear isnt all spin and boost doesnt seem to be getting up there in 1st and 2nd. 3rd and 4th pull like hell though. WHat could be the reason? I logically think its not getting fuel. How do i raise up the fuel on the fmu and do i have to disconnect something while raising fuel. The motor just seems it needs fuel? does this sound right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by preludesh012001 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well my car is all wired up and everything is the way it is suppose to be but im not felling that true power i saw on videos and heard about. FIrst gear isnt all spin and boost doesnt seem to be getting up there in 1st and 2nd. 3rd and 4th pull like hell though. WHat could be the reason? I logically think its not getting fuel. How do i raise up the fuel on the fmu and do i have to disconnect something while raising fuel. The motor just seems it needs fuel? does this sound right? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Have you not dyno tuned your car? I can't believe you would just plug all the junk in and go and not spend time making sure it's running properly...

 

You need a fuel pressure gauge, a dyno, and a wideband. Here are instuctions for setting your base fuel pressure: http://home.tampabay.rr.com/prelude/faq.html#perf

You shouldn't be boosting until you get things set up right, J&S or not.

 

Well the sadest thing is theres not a SINGLE dyno around this sad town. Im located in Pittsfeild MA and the closest dyno tune is i think 3 hours away. sad huh

 

Then you should purchase your own wideband.

 

SO what do you recommend i do? I have a B&M fuel gauge which i mounted on my aem rail and a aem fpr, and also have a set of 370cc R/C injectors. The thing is i need to install these but do i need a different FMU. Like cartech.

 

I recommend you drive three hours to the dyno, or get yourself a wideband. I wouldn't consider fuel system upgrades until you know for sure that you need them.

 

I found a dyno near by, its site is http://www.nedyno.com Would the J&S effect performance? It seems to be runnig weaker after i installed it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by preludesh012001 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I found a dyno near by, its site is http://www.nedyno.com Would the J&S effect performance? It seems to be runnig weaker after i installed it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If it is set up properly, and not pulling timing for knock or ambient noise, then the J&S would only pass the ignition signal unmolested. If it is pulling timing for "knock", then you will see the red LED bar graph light up.

What is your sensitivity set at? It should be set around 10 oclock. Are you using the J&S for boost timing retard?

 

Shark i wired the J&S exactly like you had showed me. I have the yellow and the map wires not hooked up. So far i havent seen my j&s monitor retart timing light up at all. When i turn it on it brinks from left to right and back to left but ive pused the lude and never seen anything on it. DO i leave the green wire in the back of the monitor. I played with the sensitivity today and i noticed with it high the car cuts out quicker. So i lowered it to about where the arrow points to 10 o clock. DOes this all sound logical? What exactly would ambient noise mean? Also the map ****, seeing how its not connected would it even matter where its at?

 

Yes, I wasn't referring to your wiring. What was that you are asking about the green wire, I didn't understand the question. The sensitivity **** sets the amount of noise that is squelched out, and when set right the J&S will ignore sounds that are normal engine noise (ambient noise). 10 oclock is about right. The MAP **** doesn't matter, since it is not wired up. Do you have a vacuum line that "sees" both vacuum and boost connected to the unit? It will not function properly without this connection. What are your start and rate ***** set at?

 

they are set the way you told me. Start clockwise and rate counterclockwise. Well i have never seen my j&s knock/retart on the monitor light up yet so maybe somethings wrong but other than that i think its my belt slipping. Maybe the ground on the J&S isnt in the right spot and the vacuum hose is connected to the back of the J&S.

 

It's probably your slipping belt.

 

Tightened the main blower belt and still no real power. Only getting 4-5 psi of boost in 1st and 2nd and still get the loud slipping belt noise at around 6000 rpm. Maybe its the other belt. How do i tighten that one?

 

The other belt is tightened just as it is tightened stock: at the alternator. One of them is definitely slipping if you are not seeing 6+ psi and still hearing squeeling. GET GOODYEAR GATORBACK BELTS.

 

For now i need to tighten these belts and get to a dyno. Another problem has come up. I wired up the VTM on the VAFC and now my car cuts out at like 6000rmp. Not sure why. Im also now getting a check engine light code 22 (vtec malfunction) I wired it back to the way it was with the j&s and without the vtm and still code 22. What to do? I also talked to the people at nedyno.com and they seem very helpful in my stressful times. Hopefully i will soon appreciate JRSC.

 

I know ive heard this problem on other forums in the past about the car cutting out at 6000 or so when the vafc was installed? How do i correct this as well as that pesky engine light.

 

Every time I have read about someone getting code 22 after wiring up a vafc it has turned out to be some sort of wiring mistake. Double check your wiring.

 

I will double check all the wiring but i still cant explain why its cutting out at 6000. Hopefully its the wiring. It only cuts out that quickly when i wire up the VTM.