anyone here use organic oil with their turbo set up
i am about to throw boost on my H22 prelude with 130xxx miles on it and was thinking of staying with organic motor oil. Its only going to be 6.5 lbs on stock internals and once i am able to build my bottom end, then i will switch to synthetic.
Is there anyone else that runs organic, if so whats the pros and cons and what should i look out for? Whatever info would be appreciated, thanks
Is there anyone else that runs organic, if so whats the pros and cons and what should i look out for? Whatever info would be appreciated, thanks
You mean conventional oil?
I think the biggest reason most ppl here run Synthetic is because it handles heat better where conventional oil breaks down faster. Especially when your oil system is taxed more now that it has to lubricate AND cool a turbo plus lubricate your engine which is now producing significantly more power.
The diffrence in price is minimal for the added extra protection. No sense spending thousands on a turbo system only to cheap out on $20 of oil.
I think the biggest reason most ppl here run Synthetic is because it handles heat better where conventional oil breaks down faster. Especially when your oil system is taxed more now that it has to lubricate AND cool a turbo plus lubricate your engine which is now producing significantly more power.
The diffrence in price is minimal for the added extra protection. No sense spending thousands on a turbo system only to cheap out on $20 of oil.
yea, i agree, but from what i have been told by others is if i were to switch from conventional to synth at the milage i am at now, it might lead to other problems and from what they were saying is to wait until i rebuild. I am not sure so i decided to ask the people here at H-T what they thought. F/I is kind of new to me but i am learning. I know if you ask a thousand people you are going to get a thousand opinions.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by len »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This stuff doesn't work.
http://www.nhr.kz/</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha
. Now on to the real question at hand. I've never once heard that running synthetic after conventional would harm your motor. I don't understand why it would, as synthetic as stated above does a better job.
http://www.nhr.kz/</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha
. Now on to the real question at hand. I've never once heard that running synthetic after conventional would harm your motor. I don't understand why it would, as synthetic as stated above does a better job.
I'm beginning to wonder if its really worth running synthetic.
i've been talking to some of our most reputable mechanics in the area. most say running light wt oil is a bunch of crap and honda pushes 5w30 just so you will be needing to replace your car sooner than later.
they recommend a heavier wt. 15w50 in the summer and 10w50 in the winter, they also say that conventional oil is better at removing the carbon from your system (ie a good oil should be black when drained). some even do advocate things like PTFE additives for extra protection from cold starts.
most agree on a lightwt 5w30 conventional for break in only
so i'm not sure what is best anymore
i've been talking to some of our most reputable mechanics in the area. most say running light wt oil is a bunch of crap and honda pushes 5w30 just so you will be needing to replace your car sooner than later.
they recommend a heavier wt. 15w50 in the summer and 10w50 in the winter, they also say that conventional oil is better at removing the carbon from your system (ie a good oil should be black when drained). some even do advocate things like PTFE additives for extra protection from cold starts.
most agree on a lightwt 5w30 conventional for break in only
so i'm not sure what is best anymore
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ir run plain oil and no problems.. i just upped from 5w30 to 10w40 during summer.. i'm probably going to run plain 5w30 over the winter after rebuild.. theres also oil filter... run a good one if you can find one.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GruvyTune »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've been talking to some of our most reputable mechanics in the area. most say running light wt oil is a bunch of crap and honda pushes 5w30 just so you will be needing to replace your car sooner than later.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That statement right there would automatically make me steer clear of their shop from then on. Any bonehead can go to school and become a mechanic, it doesnt mean they have any common sense.
That statement right there would automatically make me steer clear of their shop from then on. Any bonehead can go to school and become a mechanic, it doesnt mean they have any common sense.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GruvyTune »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i've been talking to some of our most reputable mechanics in the area. most say running light wt oil is a bunch of crap and honda pushes 5w30 just so you will be needing to replace your car sooner than later.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i cant believe i am reading this. you were talking to some old school musclecar fellas. or some crack smokers.
i've been talking to some of our most reputable mechanics in the area. most say running light wt oil is a bunch of crap and honda pushes 5w30 just so you will be needing to replace your car sooner than later.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i cant believe i am reading this. you were talking to some old school musclecar fellas. or some crack smokers.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GruvyTune »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm beginning to wonder if its really worth running synthetic.
i've been talking to some of our most reputable mechanics in the area. most say running light wt oil is a bunch of crap and honda pushes 5w30 just so you will be needing to replace your car sooner than later.
they recommend a heavier wt. 15w50 in the summer and 10w50 in the winter, they also say that conventional oil is better at removing the carbon from your system (ie a good oil should be black when drained). some even do advocate things like PTFE additives for extra protection from cold starts.
most agree on a lightwt 5w30 conventional for break in only
so i'm not sure what is best anymore</TD></TR></TABLE>
agreed, this is quiet possibly the most stupid thing i've ever heard...most mechanics don't go to school for friction, heat, and mechanical breakdown...they go to mechanics school to learn how to fix cars. Synthetic oil is the great, it coats engine parts better, lasts longer, and provides much lower friction in your engine.
the the only negatives to synthetic are disposal of it. it doesn't breakdown like good ol fossil goo, and SOMETIMES in higher mileage engines, their is a POSSIBILITY that it will break down the old seals and cause minor oil leaks, this ISN'T ALWAYS TRUE, but it can happen. replacing old seals is hardly major engine damage.
Switch to synthetic, your turbo will thank you. just keep an eye on your motor, give it a little check every fillup, and check that oil often.
i've been talking to some of our most reputable mechanics in the area. most say running light wt oil is a bunch of crap and honda pushes 5w30 just so you will be needing to replace your car sooner than later.
they recommend a heavier wt. 15w50 in the summer and 10w50 in the winter, they also say that conventional oil is better at removing the carbon from your system (ie a good oil should be black when drained). some even do advocate things like PTFE additives for extra protection from cold starts.
most agree on a lightwt 5w30 conventional for break in only
so i'm not sure what is best anymore</TD></TR></TABLE>
agreed, this is quiet possibly the most stupid thing i've ever heard...most mechanics don't go to school for friction, heat, and mechanical breakdown...they go to mechanics school to learn how to fix cars. Synthetic oil is the great, it coats engine parts better, lasts longer, and provides much lower friction in your engine.
the the only negatives to synthetic are disposal of it. it doesn't breakdown like good ol fossil goo, and SOMETIMES in higher mileage engines, their is a POSSIBILITY that it will break down the old seals and cause minor oil leaks, this ISN'T ALWAYS TRUE, but it can happen. replacing old seals is hardly major engine damage.
Switch to synthetic, your turbo will thank you. just keep an eye on your motor, give it a little check every fillup, and check that oil often.
hey,
i'm only saying what i heard. most of the mechanics at the honda dealership are the dumbest people i have ever met. they are parts changers, not diagnosticians.
where's the hard data that a lighter wt oil is better for our engine or turbos? show me and i'll possibly believe.
i'm only saying what i heard. most of the mechanics at the honda dealership are the dumbest people i have ever met. they are parts changers, not diagnosticians.
where's the hard data that a lighter wt oil is better for our engine or turbos? show me and i'll possibly believe.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GruvyTune »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey,
i'm only saying what i heard. most of the mechanics at the honda dealership are the dumbest people i have ever met. they are parts changers, not diagnosticians.
where's the hard data that a lighter wt oil is better for our engine or turbos? show me and i'll possibly believe.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
90% of mechanics really dont know jack about what they do. Me being a tech., it shames me. Anyways, the Honda motor, and oil pump are not designed to pump a thick oil like a 15w or 20w oil. All your doing is killing your motor at start up, your depriving your bearings of oil when they need them the most, same goes for the turbo. Thick oil really wont start circulating until it reaches a fairly warm temp.
i'm only saying what i heard. most of the mechanics at the honda dealership are the dumbest people i have ever met. they are parts changers, not diagnosticians.
where's the hard data that a lighter wt oil is better for our engine or turbos? show me and i'll possibly believe.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
90% of mechanics really dont know jack about what they do. Me being a tech., it shames me. Anyways, the Honda motor, and oil pump are not designed to pump a thick oil like a 15w or 20w oil. All your doing is killing your motor at start up, your depriving your bearings of oil when they need them the most, same goes for the turbo. Thick oil really wont start circulating until it reaches a fairly warm temp.
10w30 castrol GTX here... Never had a mechanical failure that I didn't cause(burned piston, broken timing belt), and I've revved and boosted the **** out of my cars...
Never an oil related problem. Just keep it changed, and any oil is fine for your engine.
Never an oil related problem. Just keep it changed, and any oil is fine for your engine.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HXMan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I personally would rather pay 1/2 the price of synthetic for regular oil, and just replace it twice as much.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
My exact philosophy as well.
</TD></TR></TABLE>My exact philosophy as well.
I've been using mobil 1 15-50 for almost 10000 boosted miles, and it's great. I change it every 3k-3500. Holds up great. The real reason I went with 15w50 was because on the back (read it) it says "excellent for turbocharged motors," which it doesn't say on any other viscosity. Good enough for me!
Longer spreads in the consistency are worse in terms of sludge formation. So a 5W30 will deteriorate faster than a 10W30. You could get a 5W50 but it will very rapidly break down to a 30W50.
We joined within 100 days of each other... and I didn't post very much when I first joined, so neither of us wanted to change names once we'd been here a year and a half, so we just agreed to agree on names. 
I've gotten asked LOTS of questions aobut a civic coupe... I'll bet he's gotten plenty about water/air intercoolers...
LOL.
The SiR Kid with the space, me, is Jody.
I don't even know the other guy's name... Chris, maybe?

I've gotten asked LOTS of questions aobut a civic coupe... I'll bet he's gotten plenty about water/air intercoolers...
LOL.
The SiR Kid with the space, me, is Jody.
I don't even know the other guy's name... Chris, maybe?
I definately wouldn't put anything other than Mobil One in my car, unless it was Motul or something like that. I've been running 15w-50 on my turbo engine for about a year and a half now without any real problems. The seals in my turbo i think are bad but i think its from putting too much oil in one time to where it backed up the return line. I've been thinking about changing over to 10w-30, anyone think that would be better? and if i did would it be bad mixing with the 15w-50 already in the engine? (i have an oil cooler so there would still be a lot in the lines)
I haven't bothered with synthetic since the first oil change on the new engine - when I saw the Mobil 1 was shitcanned at 1500 miles just like the $0.88/quart **** I used to run in the old B18A, I decided I was wasting my money.
You can profess how much a degree in petrochemistry is required in order to have an educated opinion on this subject, but the simple fact of the matter is that when you feel the oil on the dipstick every time you check the oil, you have a pretty good idea of how much wear (heat) it has seen by the oil's consistency and how slippery it is. My experience, based on simple in-front-of-your-nose evidence, says oil choice is not the issue, oil condition is. I've got 40K on the new B18B, the head surface gleams like the chrome spinnaz on a showcar when you pop the oil cap, and compression is perfect in every way. Good enough for me.
Remember, this is a forum of well meaning idiots who perceive quality by the pricetag attached to it and the shiny package it comes in. Based on the second hand trial and error experience you gain from this forum, and them herding you toward the approved bling-spec products, you won't go wrong. By my yardstick, you're still an idiot who can't think for themselves, and you'll never be right.
You can profess how much a degree in petrochemistry is required in order to have an educated opinion on this subject, but the simple fact of the matter is that when you feel the oil on the dipstick every time you check the oil, you have a pretty good idea of how much wear (heat) it has seen by the oil's consistency and how slippery it is. My experience, based on simple in-front-of-your-nose evidence, says oil choice is not the issue, oil condition is. I've got 40K on the new B18B, the head surface gleams like the chrome spinnaz on a showcar when you pop the oil cap, and compression is perfect in every way. Good enough for me.
Remember, this is a forum of well meaning idiots who perceive quality by the pricetag attached to it and the shiny package it comes in. Based on the second hand trial and error experience you gain from this forum, and them herding you toward the approved bling-spec products, you won't go wrong. By my yardstick, you're still an idiot who can't think for themselves, and you'll never be right.



