Would you replace the pistons and rods? Or just the pistons?
Plan to replace cams, springs, and retainers to type r or Skunk2 stage 2.
thanks

 

what is your budget, and what kinda power you want to make?

if you want 200-215+whp, then you need to do everything right, (bottom end, top end, + tuning)

 

Basically we have a B18C w\ 105k that is blowin smoke, she needs a rebuild.
Budget is ~ 2k, and don't forget labor.

Here is my parts list so far:
-Cam Gears-
STR
http://groupbuycenter.com/buy.aspx?id=12328
Cam Gears
Acura Integra B-Series DOHC $159.99 (2)

Golden Eagle
http://www.tornactive.com
GOLDEN EAGLE 440 ADJUSTRU ADJUSTABLE CAM GEAR
Your Price: $93.00 x2

-Fuel Pump-
Walbro
http://groupbuycenter.com/buy.aspx?id=12109
Integra 1994-99 255lph-HP $105

-Cams-
JDM Factory Type R Cam Shaft Kits
http://www.modacar.com
94-01 Integra (Exhaust Cam) JDM-9400INT-CAMSFT-E $325.00
94-01 Integra (Intake Cam) JDM-9400INT-CAMSFT-I $325.00

Skunk2 Stage 2 Racing Camshafts
http://www.modacar.com
94-01 Integra GSR (set) SK-305-05-0145 $725.00
http://www.tornactive.com <-- claims to have the cheapiest price with free ship

-Springs-
http://www.modacar.com
94-01 Integra GSR SK-311-05-035 $259.00

-Gaskets-
http://www.modacar.com
Hondata Heatshield Gasket
94-01 Integra GSR HD-B18HS $60.00

http://www.tornactive.com
MR. GASKET'S MLS HEAD GASKET: B16A/17A/18C (85MM)
Price: $105.00
Serial Number: MRG-3188G


Golden Eagle Cam Seals
http://www.modacar.com
All B16/B18 (titanium) GCS100T-A $29.00

-Timing Belt-
Power Super V Belt
94-01 Integra GSR 4PK760 $39.00

-Water Pump-
~$50

-Block Guard-
http://www.tornactive.com
STR BLOCK SAVER: Honda & ACURA B16/B18 MOTORS
Price: $120.00
Serial Number: STR-SL0100

~~~Suspension~~~~
NEUSPEED/KONI ADJUSTABLE SHOCK FOR 94-01 INTEGRA EXC TYPE-R
(5 way height adj)
http://www.tornactive.com
$540 (135 each)





Modified by greebler at 4:49 PM 10/6/2003

 

So if you guys agree with what I am looking at let me know, mainly on cam choice. Also, I need to know if I should replace the pistons or just leave them stock. I am not thinking the bottom end, besides the rings really needs to be messed with. From what I understand the Honda cranks never really go out of balance so.
I was thinking of shot peeding the rods and going ahead and replacing pistons with type-r. So basically I want this engine (internaly speaking) to be above CTR spec (- intake mani), redline @ 9k +, close to stock idle\mpg. No this is not a drag strip car.

 

Or should I sell the GSR head and buy a new Type R head. Then work on bottom end.

 

all motor gsr build up

jdm itr pistons
acl bearing
arp rod bolts
re use your rods
new seals and timing belt.
either find a used P&P head either gsr/itr/b16
gsr valves are fine
its easy to get new itr cams for 400
get some toda/jun/or ef-1 valve springs
st corsa cam gears
ported and polished gsr intake manifold
bigger tb
310 or bigger injectors
hondata
good header
2.5 exhaust

their is yoru list for 200+whp if its built by a good builder who knows his ****

expect to pay at least 4k for all that once its said and done

the cheap way would be to get new rings, used usdm itr pistons, acl bearing, clean up block and get hondata with a good header.

you could have your head milled a lil when you are putting it all back together to get some more cr

 

To get 200 whp easier, you're probably going to need to need higher compression pistons, so ITR (used) would be a must; they especially help the Skunk2 cams out a bit.

Rod-wise, for 9k rpm occasionally, you might consider buying Eagle rods or an equivilant... High rpm has a tendency to stretch the stock rod bolts. Just as good though, shot-peening the stock rods and adding ARP rod bolts (only about $70) would do the trick as long as you don't take it above 9k every time you take off from a light. Just my thoughts.. but sounds like a good setup otherwise . I wish I had a budget more than my lunch money to make my car a beast!

 

what about puttin ctr pistons in that setup? wouldnt the cr be somehwere around 12:1

and the itr would yield somewhere around 10:1 right?

 

Someone here knows for sure, but CTR pistons would raise it right around 12:1, maybe higher, but you might have valve/piston clearance issues with the Stage 2 cams... I don't know for sure. ITR pistons would yield about 11.5-11.6:1, assuming the CTR's yield 12:1. ITR pistons only throw you a few tenths less compression.

I've never used either piston, so I don't know exactly what the numbers are

Someone know?

 

and don't forget the cheap alternative to JDM ITR pistons, PR3 pistons from the b16.
I don't know about the block gaurd, I don't think its necessary or does anything for NA.
Also, find some cheaper cam gears $93x2 is too much.
ITR cams are the best for a torquey midrange, or as i call it a meaty midrange
And the fuel pump/injectors. You might want to look into early h22 injectors, they flow around 345cc, but u need a resistor box. If you are running a stock Gsr fuel pump, then i don't thik u'll need the pump upgrade

 

Stock GSR fuel pump.

My friend keeps telling me to just go ahead and get a new Type R head and slap that on. That way I would already have all of these things assembled. New, they run around $1,600. So thats less than what I was looking at with all this other ****.
Mabey then replace with CTR pistons, APR pistons bolts (thanks psychotic_z) and call it a day.
With the DC Sport header, cat, and Type R exhaust; that will make my roommate happy.

 

R head is nice, but if are going with CTR pistons and 8400 redline. If you want more power, like skunk stage 1's i would just buy stuff and build the head you already have

 

Wouldn't redline be @ 9200? I would have to get a new prog for ecu. This is a OBDI engine, so as long as I get a new prog. it will be fine right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bolivianstrtwpn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> like skunk stage 1's i would just buy stuff and build the head you already have</TD></TR></TABLE>

See this is my problem, I keep getting both sides. I think the more cost effective way would be to go with the R head.

Could some one explain my ECU situation with this.

YOU GUYS HAVE BEEN A MAJOR HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

if your budget is 2k

then
-acl engine bearings 100
-aebs head studs 125
-16 or jdm itr pistons with rings 300
-arp upgraded rod bolts 40 (not sure)
-new timing belt/head gasket/and every other misc gasket is 300
-labor to just re do the block is ~400
-labor to take out old block and put new one is another 500 at least

total is roughly $1655

itr head is pretty darn good if you are just going to bolt it on. you can find them for around 1200 pretty easy with cams

if you bought my gsr block that is already built, you will have less down time (only a day vs a week), and be able to re sell your old block for at least 600-800 bux minimum. If I was smart enough I would bought someone elses block and not rebuilt mine. I had a **** load of down time and it costed way more than I planned for.
My block is 1400 shipped, minus your 600 bux, its only gona cost you 800 dollars. for the extra money you can buy an itr head or wutever else.

im not trying to just sell my block to you, just letting you know there are other alternatives to spending the money and building your block.

you can also get used jdm b20 blocks for really cheap too

 

You could get a new "program" for your ECU with hondata, but that is saying that your engine is built to handle the high RPMs.

My suggestion, buy bob-dc2's block, buy my extra set of ef-1 valve springs/retainers, and buy a set of used skunk or ef-1 cams (roughly 450-550). That way you could rev your engine up to a little over 9,000 and make power up there.

Now the only thing you will have to look into is the head, a mild p&p job to get it to type R spec quality should be around 350 dollars + valve job, but i say as long as its off, do it right and get the best job you can afford

 

So my stock GSR crank and rods can't handle 9k? I thought the only thing I really had to worry about was the head bolts. Keep in mind this is not a drag car, or somthing that will be taken to the track every weekend. I don't see any need to mess much with the bottom end, besides the heads and bolts.

PM me any sites to order from if you would.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by greebler &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So my stock GSR crank and rods can't handle 9k? I thought the only thing I really had to worry about was the head bolts. Keep in mind this is not a drag car, or somthing that will be taken to the track every weekend. I don't see any need to mess much with the bottom end, besides the heads and bolts.

PM me any sites to order from if you would.</TD></TR></TABLE>
They can handle 9k+. I know it can b/c in my allmotor setup i could hit 10 with stock crank and rods with JDM ITR piston's.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bob-DC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if your budget is 2k

im not trying to just sell my block to you, just letting you know there are other alternatives to spending the money and building your block.

you can also get used jdm b20 blocks for really cheap too</TD></TR></TABLE>

To rebuild to stock I got quoted ~$730.
--That being
Timing belt, water pump, tensioners, cam seal, thermostat + gasket, valve cover gasket, spk cover gasket, ingition cap and rotor, fluids, drive belts.
Labor out of that total = $275

Keep in mind this is not for new rings, valves. Which are needed. So I donno tack on another 200 for that, we will guess high.

Getting a B20 is not a consideration....

 

Any comments about this option??

http://www.modacar.com/product...DAENK/

 

gsr block with balanced everything can handle 9k easily

you dont need new valves unless your valves are bent

no way in hell does it cost $700+ for all those oem parts. they must be padding the prices.
t belt is under 60
all new gaskets are under 200

fluids are under 50
belts are under 30
not sure about rotor

spark plugs are under 10 for decent ones

if you really need help and not sure what to get, post on ef-1 board and bert and I will list out every part you need and bert will give u a good price

I hate it when shops take advantage of people just because they can.

talk to bert-o at gettel acura and he can hook you up.
http://ef-1.zeroforum.com/zeroforum?id=23

 

Bro I know this quote is totally wack, I posted that to list everything I was told I needed.
I think we are getting off track, basically all of that crap will be done. The valves are one of the things that contributes to blowing smoke, the valve rods that is. By getting this Type R head it would cut down on the down time and give it to me already assembled, sorta. Also have everything I needed, and be brand new everything.
Relyability is going to over power crazy HP gains.

 

If your gonna use a B18C5 head check this tread out.

http://hybrid2.honda-perf.org/tech/headswap/

 

kick ***! thanks

 

i would look into some CTR cams instead of ITR cams because from what i have read and heard from other honda folk, they have a duration that is about 3 degrees longer. Good luck on the rebuild!