My opinion on rear disk
I just finished my rear disk swap and just wanted to share a couple things I was questioning before I started.
Given you have the whole assembly (trailing arm and all) it's as easy as it looks. Unbolt and rebolt.
The only snag I hit was the E-brake cable I had was off a Integra, but a few zip ties and rerouting and I was back in business. I can't lock the rear brakes up while moving with the e-brake, so I'm ordering the Si cables. I can keep the car from rolling down a hill though, so it does its job.
Also, unless you're good at doing your own alignment, it's probably a good idea to take it in after dong the swap. I have some bad toe out now, and I could probably fix it for the most part, but I might as well have it done right. Wouldn't be a bad time to get adjustable rear camber too. Also, go ahead and get some braided steel lines for the rear at least while you're at it.
Two things about performance. Weight savings is minimal. The ever so accurate holding it in the air wieght test proved them to be "about the same" weight as the old drums by all three people present. Stopping time didn't seem to be reduced, but they are definitely more consistant now, due in part to the steel lines I'm sure. While cold I didn't notice a big difference, but after drivig 25 miles to work this morning the difference was pretty substantial.
Oh, also, this is runing on the pads and rotors the swap came with. I was too lazy to take the rotors in to get turned, so I'm just waiting for the pads to run completely out, then I'll do all that jazz, which I'm sure will help performance a little more. It's kinda hard to test brkaing performance when you have all-season radials anyway.
Given you have the whole assembly (trailing arm and all) it's as easy as it looks. Unbolt and rebolt.
The only snag I hit was the E-brake cable I had was off a Integra, but a few zip ties and rerouting and I was back in business. I can't lock the rear brakes up while moving with the e-brake, so I'm ordering the Si cables. I can keep the car from rolling down a hill though, so it does its job.
Also, unless you're good at doing your own alignment, it's probably a good idea to take it in after dong the swap. I have some bad toe out now, and I could probably fix it for the most part, but I might as well have it done right. Wouldn't be a bad time to get adjustable rear camber too. Also, go ahead and get some braided steel lines for the rear at least while you're at it.
Two things about performance. Weight savings is minimal. The ever so accurate holding it in the air wieght test proved them to be "about the same" weight as the old drums by all three people present. Stopping time didn't seem to be reduced, but they are definitely more consistant now, due in part to the steel lines I'm sure. While cold I didn't notice a big difference, but after drivig 25 miles to work this morning the difference was pretty substantial.
Oh, also, this is runing on the pads and rotors the swap came with. I was too lazy to take the rotors in to get turned, so I'm just waiting for the pads to run completely out, then I'll do all that jazz, which I'm sure will help performance a little more. It's kinda hard to test brkaing performance when you have all-season radials anyway.
do you think a proportion valve would help?
like a 4040 as opposed to the 2525
I am planning on the same conversion, but i pieced together parts off a non abs integra.
4040 proportion valve, 15/16 master cylinder, non abs brake booster, and all the front jazz. all i'm waiting on are the pads and stainless steel braided lines
Modified by phantom_sol at 2:12 PM 10/6/2003
like a 4040 as opposed to the 2525
I am planning on the same conversion, but i pieced together parts off a non abs integra.
4040 proportion valve, 15/16 master cylinder, non abs brake booster, and all the front jazz. all i'm waiting on are the pads and stainless steel braided lines
Modified by phantom_sol at 2:12 PM 10/6/2003
I don't think the proportioning valve is nessisary. The fronts lock up just before the rears still. I'll probably get an adjustable proportioning valve once I get front brakes.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jolt-tsp »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't think the proportioning valve is nessisary. The fronts lock up just before the rears still. I'll probably get an adjustable proportioning valve once I get front brakes.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actuailly it is, if you don't swap to the 4040, your rear brakes will never get the proper amount of fluid.
Actuailly it is, if you don't swap to the 4040, your rear brakes will never get the proper amount of fluid.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phantom_sol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">adjustable?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The Willwood proportioninig valve is adjustable
Thanks for the write up man I will be doing my with in the next month. Are you planning on using the 91 EX MC?
The Willwood proportioninig valve is adjustable
Thanks for the write up man I will be doing my with in the next month. Are you planning on using the 91 EX MC?
WILLWOOD yummy. $$$
i'm' using an itr 15/16mc + brake booster
i decided that i would go through with the integra bb just to have the complete integra setup. pain in the *** to take out but hey, worth the experience
i'm' using an itr 15/16mc + brake booster
i decided that i would go through with the integra bb just to have the complete integra setup. pain in the *** to take out but hey, worth the experience
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Not sure how I'm going to do the front brakes yet, so bb/mc/proportioning valve is all still questionable. I've heard a lot of good thing about stoptech and am considering going that route for the front. If I do that, I'm not sure how I'll deal with the bb/mc/pv.. Otherwise I'll just go with GSR everything (front brakes and all).
drums are lighter than the disk set up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
by 4-8 lbs per side!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
so those of you thinking you are saving weight.....WRONG!!!!!!!
by 4-8 lbs per side!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
so those of you thinking you are saving weight.....WRONG!!!!!!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">drums are lighter than the disk set up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
by 4-8 lbs per side!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
so those of you thinking you are saving weight.....WRONG!!!!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I did the swap so I wouldn't have to **** with all the dams springs when you change pads on disc brakes
by 4-8 lbs per side!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
so those of you thinking you are saving weight.....WRONG!!!!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I did the swap so I wouldn't have to **** with all the dams springs when you change pads on disc brakes
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by infinatenexus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I did the swap so I wouldn't have to **** with all the dams springs when you change pads on disc brakes
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I did the swap so I wouldn't have to **** with all the dams springs when you change pads on disc brakes
</TD></TR></TABLE>
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