Ok, I'm really interested in advancing the ignition timing myself but the closest thing (in magnitude) that I've done with the engine is installing the icebox. I don't even think that counts. So I've done the search and looked at the cspeedracing how-to's and it looks like something I can do. So before I get ahead of myself and waste money on a timing gun, I have a couple of questions.

a.) I did a search for timing guns on the sears site and it came up with two different ones made my Craftsman. One was an Inductive Timing Light and the other was just Craftman Timing Light. I noticed that the one on cspeedracing was inductive. Does it matter which one I get?

b.) The how-to says that I need to connect the gun to the #1 spark plug wire and the battery. They didn't give steps on how to do this so I'm just wondering if the timing gun comes with valid instructions on how to do this.

c.) It seems like this is a job for two people. Will I be able to hold the timing gun and adjust the distributor at the same time?

TIA


[Modified by CPR, 5:47 PM 8/28/2001]

 

A) I thought all timing guns were inductive? I use an inductive adjustable one from discount auto parts..

B) once you have a gun, this will make sense. For the battery connection, there will be two alligator clips, just clip black to negative and red to positive. The spark plug wire is a clip like thing that connects to the #1 spark plug wire., you just press a button/tab to open up the "clamp", move the wire into the "clamp" and release button/tab.

C) one person can do it. First, jump the diagnostic port by the ECU with a paperclip, the check engine light should now stay on when the engine is running, then loosen the bottom two distributor bolts and then the top bolt. To check the timing place the light over the power steering pulley and look down, you should see a metal tab on the block/timing belt cover. just line that up with the marks on the crank pulley. Check the timing to see where it is currently, the red mark is 16 degrees, the bottom white mark is 18 top white mark is 14. to adjust, slight tab the distributor to rotate it and then recheck the timing, repeat until its at 18 or so, then tighten down the top bolt. Verify that timing is still at 18 or so, if so tighten down bottom bolts and remove jumper from diag port by ecu, otherwise, reloosen top bolt and readjust/repeat steps above.

HTH

 

I use the sears one the has the timing adjustment dial on it. All you need to do is put it on what degree you want and then turn the distributor untill the marks line up. The gun has two wires coming off of it one goes to the batt and the other hooks onto the #1 wire. Once you see it you'll know what to do. You really don't need to people but it does make it easier. Not hard at all.

 

Sweet. Sounds easy enough! I have a couple more questions...one stupid one valid.

a.) If I short out the service connector with a paperclip, I won't get shocked will I? Sounds like a joke but I'm really wondering.

b.) What do your cars idle at? When my car was new, my car would idle at ~800-900 with out any of the accessories on. As I put more miles, my idle has gone down to ~600 i think. I'll double-check again jus to make sure but cspeed said da idle has to be around ~750. Will this be a problem for me?

one more...

c.) What steps do I need to do with the engine on and engine off...or does it not even matter? I'm just scared of connecting something and then a big bang follows with me launching up in da air crying MOMMY!


[Modified by CPR, 6:09 PM 8/28/2001]

 

hey keep me informed on which inductive timing gun you decide to buy because i'm interested in buying also.

thanks..

tj

 

hey keep me informed on which inductive timing gun you decide to buy because i'm interested in buying also.
__________________________________________________ ________________

I sure will once I get the courage to do this seemingly simple task


[Modified by CPR, 6:11 PM 8/28/2001]

 

FWIW - a non-inductive timing light (which I don't think they sell any more) is one that has its input using a jumper in-line the plug wire (i.e. you unplug the wire from the plug, install the jumper and the jumper bridges the gap betwixt wire and plug). "Inductive" just means it's picking up the spark signal through the sensor that is around the plug wire, as opposed to in-line.

Green money says the other one at Sears is also "inductive", but it's not unlike Sears to have two "appearance" levels of parts without much feature differentiation.

 

Alright, I'm gonna stop acting like a little girl and get on with this. Wish me luck! If someone could answer my last three questions I posted earlier, that would be great.

 

[QUOTE]a.) If I short out the service connector with a paperclip, I won't get shocked will I? Sounds like a joke but I'm really wondering.

b.) What do your cars idle at? When my car was new, my car would idle at ~800-900 with out any of the accessories on. As I put more miles, my idle has gone down to ~600 i think. I'll double-check again jus to make sure but cspeed said da idle has to be around ~750. Will this be a problem for me?

c.) What steps do I need to do with the engine on and engine off...or does it not even matter? [QUOTE]

a. no danger from the jumper wire at all.
b. the idle will vary slightly with time. the timing will not be effected by a slight idle rpm variance.
c. -start car and make sure it is warmed up.
-shut car off
-insert jumper wire
-start car (CEL light will be on)
-using light... adjust timing
-turn car off
-remove wire and restart.

FYI...
there are 4 marks on the crank pulley.
-T.D.C (top dead center)

-14 degrees
-16 degrees
-18 degrees

Will

[fix things]


[Modified by Willard, 9:11 AM 8/29/2001]

 

FYI: Jumping the service connector prevents the ECU to regulate the idle RPM and timing. So you can get a more accurate reading..

 

I have both guns from sears, the inductive is the appropriate one.

While we're on this topic, anyone ever have a timing light become damaged from dropping?? I dropped mine 2 days ago, from about 3' up. I hope I didn't throw off any calibration, or is it just a basic strobe light with a potentiometer?(sp?)

 

Will is correct on all counts.

FWIW: Stock idle should be 800rpm/min +/- 50...

The only thing I'd worry about is where the mark is on the block - it's kind of hard to tell the first time you do it. C-speed's instructions definitely help though!

 

2 more questions...

a.) Can I connect the timing gun to the battery and #1 spark plug wire when the car is turned off. It would make me feel a lot safer

b.) How do I know which one of the 4 spark plug wires is #1?

 

a) sure. it really doesn't matter if the car is running or not when connecting those wires.

b) it should have "1" on it. if you take the spark plug cover off it'll be the one farthest on the drivers side.. I forget which one it is on the distrib so I wont guess..

 

a. while it is off is just fine
b. should be a red dot on the top of factory plug fastened to the dist. (lowest rear looking from the front...maybe).

Will

 

Is there a particular torque spec for the distributor bolts?

 

I'm sure there is.. I don't know what it is though, just make sure it's tight.

-Dave

 

Ok, I finally bought the timing gun. I was away on vacation for a while so today was the first chance I got to get started on my project. It didn't go smoothly. I wasn't even trying to make any adjustments. I just wanted to see how the timing gun works but unfortunately, I didn't even get that far. The manual said to ground the RED clip for safety purposes. So I didn't want to take a chance and I followed like a lil beeznatch. So with that said, here comes the questions...

a.) Is it safe to disregard the manual and put the RED clip on the positive terminal?

b.) I don't know if I'm connecting the inductive pickup to the spark plug correctly. Do I put the spark plug wire in the little divot or do I make the the clamps "bite" it?

Help!!! I'm excited to finally do this but I can't cuz I don't know what I'm doing wrong...


[Modified by CPR, 8:02 PM 9/14/2001]

 

good luck!!

 

a) I've always connected the red clamp to the postive bat terminal..

b) put the wire in the opening, don't have the clamp bite it.

 

Sorry to Jump in... Just bought the car you know... Where is the ecu exactly and does the diagnostic port have more than two terminals.. in which case which two
do I short...

Is 18 deg the best initial advance for a 01 ITR as well?

 

the ecu is behind the right side kick panel, but the clip you have to jump is right under the dash part on the passenger side.

 

so did ya blow ya car up or what? lol

 

Nah, the car is still kickin! I had a difficult time putting the clamp in the area where the wires plug into the distributor...well, what I think is the distributor. So what I did was clamp the #1 wire in the area between the distributor and where the wires go into the plug wire cover. Does it matter where on the wire I clamp it?

 

Woo Hoo!!! I finally did it. I almost gave up today cuz I couldn't get the top bolt of the distributor to budge. I finally figured out to use a rubber mallet to pound da wrench. First off, to the questions (u guys didn't think I would post without a question did you )

a.) At what angle should I be looking at the block and crank pulley to determine if I did indeed do it right? Depending on what angle I look at it, the pointer seems to point either at 16, between 16 and 18, or at 18.

b.) I took it for a test drive and it did feel different. Dunno if it's purely psychological though. I didn't hear any weird noises or anything but can someone tell me what it sounds like when an engine is pinging or knocking. Is there a difference between pinging and knocking

Thanks for all of those that helped me out with this!